Wheat Amino acids & Peptides for Hair Care. INCI Name EU/USA CAS # EINECS # Hydrolyzed wheat protein

Transcription

1 KELYAMIN Wheat Amino acids & Peptides for Hair Care Identification INCI Name EU/USA CAS # EINECS # Hydrolyzed wheat protein Composition % Liquid Powder Aqua Hydrolyzed wheat protein Description KELYAMIN is a water soluble, high purity wheat protein hydrolysate obtained by the action of a selected enzyme pool, which yields a high level of free amino acids and short peptides as well. This ingredient is specifically featured for hair care and hair hygiene products. Substantivity to hair results superior to conventional underivatised protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin. Benefits: Repairs damaged hair keratin Imparts body and volume to hair strand Helps retaining moisture on hair surface Prevents hair swelling and keratin solubilisation in waving and colouring treatments Reduces surfactant irritancy of detergent formulations Appearance Clear amber solution with low colour and odour; light white-yellow odourless powder. Available types Liquid Powder Analytical methods Product code P P Specifications Residue on drying % % 18 h, 105 C Nitrogen content % % Kjeldahl Protein content % % Kjeldahl ph Potentiometry (sol. 10%) Ash < 2.0% < 8.0% 6 h, 600 C TECHNICAL DATA SHEET Page 1/5

2 Free amino acids 20-30% w/w on protein substance Free aminogroups Abt. 200 mmoles Leucine eq/100g protein TNBS reaction Molecular weight abt. 500 D abt. 500 D Free amino groups det. Microbial count < 100 cfu/g < 500 cfu/g USP XXII Mould and yeast < 10 cfu/g < 10 cfu/g USP XXII Preservatives aminoacid composition of total protein substance (g/100g) Molecular weight distribution Parabens in phenoxyethanol or Potassium sorbate in phenoxyethanol (only liquid type). Other preservatives are available on request. The powder is preservatives free. ASP+ASN 3,0 MET 1,5 CYS 2,0 GLU+GLN 37,2 VAL 4,2 LYS 1,2 LEU 6,9 ARG 2,8 ILE 3,8 HIS 2,2 PHE 5,2 GLY 3,1 TYR 3,5 ALA 2,3 TRP 0,8 SER 4,8 PRO 12,3 THR 3,2 The average molecular weight of KELYAMIN is abt. 500 Daltons. The pattern of molecular weight distribution is shown below and the grey area in the chromatogram corresponds to the elution of free amino acids molecular size (in KD) ABS 220 nm V o V t elution direction Gel Filtration Chromatography. Column: TSK HW x10mm. Eluant: 0.1M NaCl, 0.1M phosphate buffer ph 6.8. Flow: 0.4 ml/min. Detection: UV 220nm. TECHNICAL DATA SHEET Page 2/5

3 composition The average composition of protein substances in KELYAMIN is reported in the pie chart below: Protein Substance - Average Composition Small Peptides ( Daltons) ~ 65% ~ 10% ~ 25% Larger Peptides Free Aminoacids composition of free amino acids (g/100g) The % composition of free amino acids is shown in the bar graph: FREE AMINO ACIDS - % COMPOSITION GLU-NH2 LEU SER ILE TYR THR ALA VAL ASP-NH2 PHE GLY GLU MET PRO CYS ASP LYS HIS TECHNICAL DATA SHEET Page 3/5

4 Enzymatic process at low temperature and neutral ph prevents deamidation of released Glutamine (abt. 30% of total free AA in KELYAMIN) and Asparagine. Deamidation easily occurs by chemical hydrolysis of proteins, especially with mineral acids, yielding Glutamic and Aspartic acid. As the isoionic value of Glutamine and Asparagine is far higher than related acids their ability to link hair keratin is superior. A special hydrolysis proceeding provides a balanced blend of free AA and small peptides. Penetration of AA in the hair strand and film-forming effect of peptides offer cooperative hair substantivity. Miscibility and compatibility KELYAMIN is miscible in any proportion with water. KELYAMIN is compatible with surfactants, electrolytes, cationic polymers and most of vegetable extracts also containing tannin. Changes in the original colour of KELYAMIN solutions can occur at extreme ph values and in presence of oxidisers. The solubility in hydro-alcoholic mixtures is indicated in the table below (20 C, ph 6): KELYAMIN % w/w Liquid Powder EtOH/Water 10/90 25/75 50/50 60/ / /- +/- (+ clear solution, +/- slight opalescence, - cloudiness) Available technical documentation Applications and suggested doses The safety and applicative dossier on KELYAMIN includes the following technical documentation which is available upon request: Tolerability tests: Primary skin irritation test Skin Irritant Potential Cytotoxicity in vitro Test Skin sensitising in vitro Test Efficacy tests: Substantivity on hair Hair protection properties Hair hydrating properties Safety data sheet KELYAMIN exhibits excellent substantivity and conditioning effects both in leave-on and rinse-off applications. TECHNICAL DATA SHEET Page 4/5

5 Shampoos 1-5% (liquid) % (powder) Rinse-off conditioners 2-8% (liquid) 0.5-2% (powder) Leave-on conditioners 0.5-4% (liquid) 0.2-1% (powder) Hydroalcoholic lotions 1-10% (liquid) % (powder) Styling gels and mousses 0.5-4% (liquid) 0.2-1% (powder) Waving products 2-10% (liquid) % (powder) Storage and stability Non warranty The product has to be stored in a cool place, protected from heat and direct sunlight. In original unopened packages and suitable storage conditions the liquid product is microbiologically and chemically stable for at least 6 months; the powder type for at least one year. The information and recommendations in this data sheet are to the best of our knowledge reliable. Users should however make their own tests to determine the suitability of this product for their own particular purpose and to avoid the infringement of any patent. TECHNICAL DATA SHEET Page 5/5