home care personal care testing 2018 english

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1 05/18 Volume 144 Thannhausen, Germany, May 15, 2018 home care Low-temperature Washing without Loss in Performance Impact of the New Chelating Agents GLDA and MGDA in Detergents english personal care Cleansing Formulations and their Effect on Skin Substantiation of Antibacterial/antimicrobial Caims for Cosmetic Products testing Preservative Efficacy Test for Cosmetic Products How to Reach a Valid Efficacy Statement

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3 content home care laundry 2Low-temperature Washing without Loss in Performance J. Franke, S. Fischer, M. De Moragas, O. Spangenberg, G. Merkle Low-temperature Washing without Loss in Performance 2 J. Seetz, G. Bongen, K. Henning Impact of the New Chelating Agents GLDA and MGDA in Detergents 10 personal care C. Martinez Lerga Cleansing Formulations and their Effect on Skin 18 B. Tyralla, A. Keck-Wilhelm, A. Burkhard, B. Fellenberg, O. Sponheimer, J. Rabenhorst Substantiation of Antibacterial/antimicrobial Caims for Cosmetic Products 24 specialties U. Eigener Preservative Efficacy Test for Cosmetic Products How to Reach a Valid Efficacy Statement 28 sepawa news34 SEPAWA Specialist Group LUV sepawa news H. J. Scholz Current Movements in the Regulatory Environment 12 th Lecture Event of the SEPAWA Specialist Group LUV 34 formulations 36 company news Index of Advertisers/Imprint 44

4 home care laundry content Low-temperature Washing without Loss in Performance J. Franke, S. Fischer, M. De Moragas, O. Spangenberg, G. Merkle abstract Washing laundry at low temperature of only 30 C or even 20 C has big advantages: the significantly lower energy requirement benefits the consumer as well as the environment. In the meantime, single-dose liquid laundry detergents so-called caps or pouches are available that provide very good washing performances despite the low washing temperature. The sales growth for these products is especially large in the European market because caps are very easy and convenient to use by the consumer. The innovative caps contain highly concentrated formulations. This results in less weight, volume, and packaging, which is appealing to the consumer. All these properties are an excellent match for the e-commerce trend. In this context, BASF has formulated and tested laundry detergents that significantly improve the washing performance in the low temperature range. This article reviews Lavergy Pro 104 L, an enzyme that belongs to the class of proteases, Sokalan HP 20, a polymer that prevents graying and has a synergistic cleaning effect, as well as the rheological additive Rheovis AT 120. With these products, BASF offers a system solution that achieves excellent results. Introduction A glance at the current retail sales figures reveals that liquid laundry detergent caps had an impressive rate in growth in Western Europe in 2017 with an increase in sales volume of about 5.5% (Euromonitor, February 2018). Reasons for the success of laundry detergent caps are that they have a sustainable approach and are in alignment with the changes in consumer behavior. This is illustrated, for example, by the fact that the average weight of the caps is 25 to 30 g per wash cycle, which is a reduction in weight of up to 30% compared with other liquid laundry detergents. This is a crucial advantage particularly in the booming e-commerce market with the resulting shipping volume increase. The caps are presented to the final consumer in innovative packaging that is small and handy and Ingredients permits accurate dose rates. Overdosing and the resulting unnecessary pollution of the environment is therefore a thing of the past. However, it is critical that the laundry detergents can achieve optimum cleaning performance already at reduced washing temperatures, e.g. 20 C. This brings, first and foremost, significant energy savings for the consumer. This is illustrated, for example, by a calculation performed by AISE for its initiative I prefer 30, which indicated that a reduction by 3 C in the washing process would already generate energy savings of 2,300 GWh/year. However, the reduction in washing temperature in combination with a lower dosage rate forces the laundry detergent manufacturers to place higher demands on raw material ingredients to achieve optimum cleaning performance already at 20 C and even on tough stains. To meet these requirements, the raw materials must exert their activity in an optimum manner and ideally even have synergistic effects. Test Formulation A Test Formulation A + Sokalan HP 20 Test Formulation B with less LAS* + Sokalan HP 20 [% tq] [% tq] [% tq] Maranil DBS/LC Lutensol AO Palm kernel fatty acid Mono ethanolamine Propylene glycol Glycerol Chelates Water Sokalan HP Tab. 1 Composition of the test formulations. *linear alkylbenzene sulfonate 2 sofwjournal /18

5 content laundry home care Polymer-based Performance Booster A raw material that positively boosts the washing performance is Sokalan HP 20. It is the aqueous solution of a polymer and is characterized by its ability to be incorporated very easily particularly into concentrated liquid laundry detergent formulations, and demonstrates its effect by removing difficult-to-remove stains, stains to be bleached, as well as soil and mud stains. An additional crucial advantage, particularly in concentrated formulations, is the option to lower the percentage of anionic surfactants such as alkylbenzene sulfonate in the formulation in the presence of Sokalan HP 20 without reducing the performance of the laundry detergent. With respect to the regulatory requirements, the polymer is compelling in that no CLP labelling is required and the polymer is certified for use with products that have the EU Ecolabel. The effect of Sokalan HP 20 was extensively tested at BASF s Application Technology department. The beneficial effect on washing performance, for example, was tested at various concentrations of wash-active substance (WAS) by using two test formulations A and B (Tab. 1) in a cotton wash cycle at 40 C, a water hardness of 14 dh (2.5 mmol), 3.5 kg of ballast fabric (white towels + 2x SBL 2004), and a liquor ratio of 1:4 in the cotton wash cycle. The laundry detergent dose rate was 34.5 g. The results were determined using the Datacolor Elrepho SF 450 X at 460 nm and expressed in% remission. The test results in Fig. 1 show the effect of the addition of Sokalan HP 20. For all tested stains the formulation containing Sokalan HP 20 achieved better washing results. Fig. 1 Test formulation A (TF A) including the addition of Sokalan HP 20 achieve better washing results in all stains. Something new euxyl K 720 The inventive combination for modern wet wipe applications Mild, cost-effective preservative blend Strong broad spectrum efficacy Ideal solution for wet wipes Suitable for sensitive applications Added value as humectant Let us make your product exceptional by design. Schülke & Mayr GmbH Norderstedt Germany Tel Fax sai@schuelke.com 05/ sofwjournal 3

6 home care laundry content Protease-based Performance Booster Based on the conclusions of the Sinner s circle, the temperature is one of the four factors contributing to high washing performance. A reduction by 10 C or even 20 C means Fig. 2 The measured results including Sokalan HP 20 also demonstrate a visually noticeable improvement. that the other factors must be boosted in order to maintain washing performance. The solution to this difficult problem is based on the high-performance protease Lavergy Pro 104 L. This is evidenced by the fact that the results of the test series using two similar test formulations (TF A2 and TF A2E) that only differ with respect to the addition of Lavergy Pro 104 L. In this test, cotton was soiled with 20 protease-sensitive stains (e.g., blood/milk/india ink, whole egg, chocolate, cocoa, egg yolk, and grass). In the washing machine both formulations were tested in the cotton wash cycle (2:29 h). The formulation without protease was tested at 30 C and the formulation with Lavergy Pro 104 L at 20 C. The washing performance was subsequently determined by measuring the changes in color differential (Delta E). The results in Fig. 4 show an outstanding additional cleaning effect at 20 C for the formulation that contains Lavergy Pro 104 L. Because many consumers not only desire lower washing temperatures but also shorter washing times, the test was repeated with the test formulations (TF A2 and TF A2E; Tab. 2). However, this time Fig. 3 In test formulation B (TF B), the washing performance can be maintained using Sokalan HP 20 despite a 5% reduction in the active concentration of linear alkylbenzene sulfonate (LAS). Fig. 4 The graph clearly shows the additional cleaning effect the enzyme Lavergy Pro 104 L has on the washing performance. Despite lowering the washing temperature by 10 C (from 30 C to 20 C), the washing performance is significantly increased. 4 sofwjournal /18

7 Targeted odor removal in perfection Superior efficacy in new attractive types of formulation TEGO SORB is the ultimate solution for private and professional use. It is effective in both liquid and gel-like formulations, and with TEGO SORB CONC 50, minimal water usage allows for the product to be used within pouch packaging in laundry detergent applications. The most powerful choice to satisfy the needs of customers. Also compatible for pouches

8 home care laundry content Ingredients Test Formulation A2 Test Formulation A2E [% telquel] [% telquel] Maranil DBS/LC Lutensol AO Palm kernel fatty acid Mono ethanolamine Propylene glycol Glycerol Chelating agent Water Add to 100 Add to 100 Lavergy Pro 104 L 2.0 Tab. 2 Results of the test formulations, A2 and A2E. the 2:29h cotton wash cycle was not chosen, but instead the easy care cycle, with only a 59 minute cycle for the entire cleaning process. In this case too, the formulation without protease was tested at 30 C and the formulation with protease at 20 C. The washing performance was subsequently determined by measuring the changes in color differential (Delta E). The results in Fig. 5 confirm the good results that were found at the long wash cycle. The cleaning performance of the formulation containing Lavergy Pro 104 L at 20 C was significantly better than at 30 C. Considering these impressive results, the question arises as to whether this performance would have also been achievable with other proteases. To answer this question, various commercially available proteases were tested at various concentrations in the Launder-O-Meter at the following conditions. The run time was 20 minutes, the test temperature 20 C, the water hardness 14 dh. The 5 monitors EMPA 117 (blood, milk, India ink), CFT C-11 (milk, India ink), CFT CS-01(blood, aged), CFT-CS-39 (egg), CFT C-05 (blood, milk, India ink) were chosen as test monitors. The results in Fig. 6 reveal that Lavergy Pro 104 L is a protease with a very good washing performance. Also the use of Lavergy Pro 104 L can lead to advantages in formulation tasks, particularly with respect to the concentrated caps. Due to its good washing performance, the dose rate of Lavergy Pro 104 L can be lower than in comparable proteases. Lavergy Pro 104 L, therefore, either creates formulation spaces for additional potential ingredients, or, alternatively, the possibility to formulate higher concentrated caps and, therefore, further reduce the weight. Lavergy Pro 104 L is a protease whose development also focused on stability in addition to extra high performance. All demonstrated test formulations were prepared without additional stabilization and are therefore borate-free. However, is the intrinsic stability sufficient even for tab formulations? The loss of activity over a period of 21 days and at 30 C was determined in the test formulation using an AAPF protease assay. This test involves placing samples at a defined temperature of 30 C into a climatic chamber for storage for a specific period of time. The activity of the enzyme is measured and documented at defined time points. The result of this test shows that Lavergy Pro 104 L maintained significant its activity for the 21-day time period at 30 C (see Fig. 7). The images show the washing performance on EMPA 117 using 0.5% w/w protease Fig. 6 The test formulation containing Lavergy Pro 104 L demonstrates across the enzyme concentration range, %, significantly better results than the formulations containing benchmark enzymes. Furthermore, a plateau effect of the protease Lavergy Pro 104 L is not yet observed. Fig. 5 Even at the significantly shortened washing time, the cleaning performance of the formulation containing Lavergy Pro 104 L at 20 C was significantly better than at 30 C. Fig. 7 Lavergy Pro 104 L maintained significant its activity for the 21-day time period at 30 C. 6 sofwjournal /18

9 content laundry home care Synergistic Effect Boosts Performance The washing performance demonstrated is often sufficient enough for most stains. However, consumers often have particularly tough and difficult-to-remove stains which need additional performance. This is why it was investigated whether the washing performance could be improved even more. To provide additional performance capabilities, synergistic effects among the raw materials are a clear advantage. The raw material Sokalan HP 20 and Lavergy Pro 104 L can achieve this type of effect. The following tests were performed to verify this synergistic effect: test formulation A2 (TF A2) shown in Tab. 3 was prepared with Sokalan HP 20 in combination with Lavergy Pro 104 L as well as with each of the two raw materials individually without additional additive. Fig. 8 The various stains under investigation. Fig. 9 The gray line represents the expected performance. The green line reflects the actual washing performance. Conclusion: The achieved washing performance lies above the expected washing performance. Consequently, genuine synergy is obtained when combining Lavergy Pro 104 L and Sokalan HP 20. The formulations were subsequently tested in the washing machine at 20 C, water hardness 14 dh (2.5 mmol), ballast fabric 3.5 kg (white towels + 1x SBL 2004), and a bath ratio of 1:4 in the cotton wash cycle. Eleven protease-sensitive stains (shown in Fig. 8) were selected as stains. The result was determined as washing performance by measuring the changes in color differential (Delta E). To measure the synergistic performance, the sum of the individual stain results of the laundry detergent TF A2 without additives with each of the individually obtained washing effects of Sokalan HP 20 and Lavergy Pro 104 L was determined. The term synergy refers to the interplay of substances that promote each other and consequently produce a benefit. The sum of the individual performances described above reflects the expected result. However, to obtain a synergistic effect, the actual result must exceed this expected performance. Ingredients TF A2 w/o additive TF A2 + Sokalan HP 20 TF A2 + Lavergy Pro 104 L TF A2 + Lavergy Pro 104 L + Soklan HP 20 [%tq] [%tq] [%tq] [%tq] Maranil DBS/LC Lutensol AO Palm kernel fatty acid Mono ethanolamine Propylene glycol Glycerol Chelates Water Add to 100 Add to 100 Add to 100 Add to 100 Sokalan HP Lavergy Pro 104 L Tab. 3 Tests to investigate the improved washing performance via synergistic effects. 05/ sofwjournal 7

10 home care laundry content Fig. 9 illustrates this effect. The gray line represents the expected performance. The green line reflects the actual washing performance. Conclusion: The achieved washing performance lies above the expected washing performance. Consequently, genuine synergy is obtained when combining Lavergy Pro 104 L and Sokalan HP 20. Viscosity A critical purchase criterion in addition to the washing performance is that the laundry detergent caps are aesthetically pleasing to the final consumer. Moreover, it is an important economic criterion for the manufacturer to achieve trouble-free and rapid filling of the product. Both requirements that seem unrelated at first glance come together in one parameter: viscosity. This is why the parameter is of great significance. Selecting the proper rheological additive and taking the following parameters into consideration may help in this case: Fig. 10 Rheovis AT The filling process must occur without problems at high speed 2. Laundry detergent must not form fibers during filling 3. The dissolving characteristics of the laundry detergent must not be negatively impacted in the washing machine 4. Final adjustment in production must be possible 5. Crystal-clear formulations should remain clear even after addition of the rheological additive in order to meet the high esthetic expectations of the consumer Rheovis AT 120 is a rheological additive that meets these requirements. The aqueous, milky-cloudy emulsion is based on methacrylic acid and acrylic acid ester. The hydrophobically modified copolymer is an alkali-soluble emulsion and belongs to the group of associative rheological additives. The 30% solution offers very low viscosity and can therefore be handled very easily. Dosing to achieve optimum viscosity is trouble-free even after the manufacturing process. The HASE thickener (hydrophobically modified alkali-soluble emulsion) can be stirred cold into the product without the need to prepare a presolution. The ph value must subsequently be checked and adjusted as needed. Fig. 11 and 12 describe the rheological behavior as function of the ph value and the concentration. Conclusion Fig. 11 Viscosity curve as a function of the ph value. Fig. 12 Viscosity curve at ph 8.5 as a function of the concentration. Low-temperature washing is equally beneficial for the consumer and the environment. Washing in an energy-saving manner is increasingly accepted by the market. Single-dose liquid laundry detergents are experiencing particularly rapid growth due to their inherent advantages and easy handling. With the introduction of the raw materials Lavergy Pro 104 L, Sokalan HP 20, and Rheovis AT 120, BASF has created the best conditions for laundry detergent manufacturers to quickly have a share in the growth of this market so that consumers can achieve optimum washing results already at temperatures as low as 20 C. contact Juergen Franke Sonja Fischer Maria De Moragas Oliver Spangenberg Gerhard Merkle BASF SE Carl-Bosch-Str Ludwigshafen am Rhein Germany 8 sofwjournal /18

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12 home care chelating agents content Impact of the New Chelating Agents GLDA and MGDA in Detergents J. Seetz, G. Bongen, K. Henning abstract The modern strong chelating agents GLDA (glutamic acid N,N-diacetic acid) and MGDA (methylglycinediacetic acid) are quickly biodegradable and are not labelled as dangerous. They have the ability to bind calcium and magnesium ions, which bind most of the stains to the surface. These chelates are also able to remove hard water carbonate scales, transforming them into water soluble metal chelates and will prevent the inactivation of anionic surfactants by water hardness cations, which will greatly improve the detergency power. Hard Water Scale Scale and dirt deposits on surfaces are commonly built by water hardness cations; calcium and magnesium. These cations form a glue which binds most stains to the surface and complicates soil removal. By binding the hard water ions with a chelating agent, forming water-soluble metal chelates, this Ca glue is removed. Also the inactivation of anionic surfactants which are sensitive to water hardness, like LAS and soap, are prevented by chelating agents. The dissolution of hard water scale by a chelating agent thus improves the effectiveness of the cleaning process. Furthermore, by preventing the inactivation of anionic surfactants, other undesirable phenomena like turbidity and flocculation of soap (soap scum) can be prevented. To quickly and efficiently break the bonds of metal ions to surface scale, soil, carbonate salts and anionic surfactants, strong chelating agents are needed. In this way the detergency power at lower temperatures and shorter wash cycles can be greatly improved (Fig. 1). Chelating Agents of the 1 st and 2 nd Generation The traditional chelating agents like phosphates and the aminopolycarboxylates NTA (nitrilotriacetic acid), EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and DTPA (diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid), which belong to the 1 st generation of chelating agents have their environmental and/or toxicological disadvantages. Phosphates like Sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP) causes eutrophication of waters, and so widespread ecological problems. EDTA is not readily biodegradable and has to be labelled with the GHS08 Health hazard label in the EU from 10 % and in the USA from 1 %. NTA is a suspected human carcinogen, and is also labelled with the same hazard label in the EU from 5 % and in the USA from 1 %. The chelating agents GLDA (glutamic acid N,N-diacetic acid) and MGDA (methylglycinediacetic acid) belong to the 2 nd generation. These 2 strong chelates are readily biodegradable, ecologically harmless and not labelled as dangerous. The structural chemical formulas of chelating agents of the 1 st and 2 nd generation are shown in Fig. 2. Improving the detergency power by chelating agents 1. Removing the Ca glue which binds stains to the surface 2. Preventing inactivation of anionic surfactants 3. Dissolving hard water scale Fig. 1 Improvement of detergency power by a chelating agent Fig. 2 Structural chemical formulas of 1 st and 2 nd generation of chelating agentson 10 sofwjournal /18

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14 home care chelating agents content Efficacy Spectrum of Chelating Agents The strong chelating agents GLDA and MGDA break the bonds between surface scale, soil and anionic surfactants fast and efficiently under ambient conditions. They also bind firmly to heavy metal cations like iron, copper and zinc and will form water soluble metal chelates. These properties support the performance of GLDA and MGDA in many applications. Dissolving Hard Water Scale (CaCO 3 ) Strong chelating agents like GLDA, MGDA, EDTA and NTA, which form water soluble metal chelates can easily dissolve hard water scale. With low soluble or weak chelating agents like ethylenediamine tetra(methylenephosphonic acid) (EDT- MP), iminodisuccinate (IDS), citrate and STPP hard water scales cannot be dissolved efficiently. See Fig.3. Inactivation of Anionic Surfactants by Water Hardness The Krafft temperature (also known as Krafft point or critical micelle temperature) of an anionic surfactant is the minimum temperature at which surfactants form micelles. Below the Krafft temperature, there is no value for the critical micelle concentration (CMC), i.e., micelles cannot be formed. The Krafft temperature is a point of phase change below which the surfactant remains in crystalline form, even in an aqueous solution. Visually the effect of going below the Krafft point can be similar to that of going above the cloud point, with the solution becoming cloudy or turbid due to the fact that the surfactant molecules undergo flocculation. Water hardness raises the Krafft point of anionic surfactants to a higher level. In Fig. 4 the influence of water hardness on the Krafft temperature is shown for the anionic surfactant linear alkylbenzene sulfonate (LAS). At a water hardness of 100 ppm CaCO 3 ( 6 dgh) the Krafft temperature is increased to Fig. 4 Water hardness raises the Krafft temperature of anionic surfactants to a high level about 70 C. Below this temperature no micelles are formed. This means that no cleaning can be done below this temperature. By adding strong chelating agents, the water hardness will be bound, the Krafft temperature will be lowered to its minimum value and turbidities of anionic surfactants can be dissolved. For example, flocculation of soaps which have been formed in solutions of tap water of 8 dgh can be completely dissolved by addition of the strong chelating agents GLDA and MGDA. In contrast, this is not possible with weak chelating agents like sodium citrate. Bond Strength of Chelating Agents for Metal Ions An important property of chelating agents is their ability to coordinate multivalent metal ions. This coordination reaction is reversible. For the stability constant K between a chelating agent and a metal ion the law of mass action or the equilibrium law is valid according to the following equation: A high value of K indicates a strong binding of the relevant metal ion, for example calcium ions. The stability of a complex depends strongly on the ph value. The conditional stability constant K takes into account the influence of the ph value on the metal + chelate equilibrium. In Fig. 5 the conditional stability constants K are shown for the strong chelating agents MGDA, GLDA and for the weak Fig. 3 Molar efficiency of CaCO 3 by various cheating agents (ph 8, 10 minutes exposure time) Fig. 5 Conditional stability constants K of calcium chelates 12 sofwjournal /18

15 content chelating agents home care chelating agent citrate from ph 3 to ph 12. For the best water softening and cleaning efficiency the K value should be high as possible. At ph =6 these 3 chelates have the same (small) strength. With increasing ph, the stability of the metal-chelate is a factor 1000 (3 units on the log scale) larger for GLDA and MGDA, while no further increase of the conditional stability constant K is obtained with sodium citrate. Water Softening The required amount of chelating agent for water softening is determined by the stability constant of the relevant metal ion and the chelating agent used. In Fig. 6 the water hardness (in ppm CaCO 3 ) is plotted versus the molar amount of the added chelating agents. While with the strong chelating agents GLDA, MGDA and EDTA at a water hardness of 100 ppm CaCO 3 (5.6 dgh) an equimolar amount is sufficient for the removal of all water hardness. For the weak chelate citrate, even with an excess amount of 7.2 mole citrate (compared to calcium), a complete water softening is not attained. Fig. 7 Improved non-mechanically removal of automotive dirt by rinsing with a cleaning solution containing the strong chelating agents MGDA and GLDA compared to weak chelating agents citrate and STPP Improved Product Performance The ability of the chelating agents GLDA and MGDA forming water soluble calcium chelates leads to increased product stability and cleaning performance of I&I and home care laundry detergents and cleaning agents. Car Washing Cleaners Fig. 6 The necessary amount for water softening is determined by the strength of metal chelate formed In Fig. 7, the cleaning efficiency of removing automotive dirt without mechanical force is demonstrated. The formulations are based on 9 % Berol ENV226 Plus (a mixture of an narrow range alcohol ethoxylate and a cationic co-surfactant) and 4 % (as 100 % active) of the chelating agents GLDA, MGDA, sodium citrate and STPP. The recipes where diluted 1:60 with soft water (3 dgh). In this AkzoNobel touchless cleaning test, automotive dirt is spread on a white coated metal plate by a paintbrush, followed by pouring the cleaning solution from above onto the vertically positioned plate. The cleaning solution runs down in only a few powered by Advertisement Siegfried Fischer Tel: Fax: advertising@sofw.com Foto: Picture Credits: robert/fotolia.com Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH, Dorfstrasse 40, Thannhausen, Germany 05/ sofwjournal 13

16 home care chelating agents content seconds. After that, the panel is rinsed with tap water and the dirt remission is measured. Chelating agents are needed for the fast removal of the Ca glue which binds the dirt to the surface. As can be seen, strong chelating agents like MGDA and GLDA give a significantly better dirt removal compared to the weaker chelates: citrate and STPP. To establish full cleaning in a short contact time (typical for car cleaning) the amount of chelate should be about 3 times higher compared to the water hardness. Kitchen Cleaners The cleaning efficiency of kitchen cleaners is tested with difficult removable soil, like gravy (soil 1) or a mixture of peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil and vegetable fat mixed with carbon black and Sudan red (soil 2). The soil is spread on a stainless steel plate and aged at 200 C for 20 minutes and at 135 C for 6 hours, respectively. Then with the Sheen abrasion tester the dirt removal is determined visually after a number of strokes. Tested were 3 in Germany commercial available formulations (A, B and C) of kitchen cleaners, also tested in the German kitchen cleaner consumer test of Stiftung Warentest (published in the consumer magazine test of ). The compositions of the cleaners, the product characteristics and the grading are compiled in Tab. 1. The 4 th recipe tested is the in the Benelux commercially available cleaner Dasty, containing Berol R648 NG (a cationic hydrotrope and co-surfactant) and potassium tripolyphosphate (KTPP) as the builder of choice. This last recipe does not contain any non-aqueous solvents. The achieved soil removals are shown in Fig. 8 (gravy, 115 wipes) and in Fig. 9 (vegetable oil/fat, 170 wipes). Clearly the 4 th recipe outperforms the cleaning efficiency of the cleaners A, B and C in both tests. Fig.8 Determination of the cleaning efficiency of kitchen cleaners in scrub test on gravy soil (soil 1, tests: Julius Hoesch, Düren) Fig. 9 Determination of the cleaning efficiency of kitchen cleaners in scrub test on soil of peanut oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil and vegetable fat mixed with carbon black and Sudan red (soil 2,tests: Julius Hoesch, Düren) Consumer test of Stiftung Warentest Product characteristics Consumer magazine test of Market product Product A Product B Product C Dasty Score in German consumer test very good good bad not in test ph-value Solids at 105 C (%) Surfactants LAS Lauramine oxide, hexyl alcohol 5 EO Tab. 1 Grading, composition and product characteristic of tested kitchen cleaners Secondary alcohol ethoxylate C9-11 Pareth-4 Berol R648 NG (cationic hydrotrope and co-surfactant) Chelates/Builders NaHCO 3 HEDP Na 2 CO 3 IDS TKPP Non-aqueous solvent Phenoxy isopropanol Butoxy propanol Butoxy propanol 14 sofwjournal /18

17 content chelating agents home care A further test was done to see if the cleaning efficiency of Dasty could be improved by replacing the nonionic surfactant C9-C11 Pareth-4 by the narrow ranged nonionic C9-C11 4 EO (Berol 260) and simultaneously replacing the builder TKPP by the stronger chelating agent GLDA. Two recipes were made. One without an organic solvent (JH#1) and one with the addition of the non-aqueous solvent 1-propoxy-propanol-2 (PnP, in JH#2). The respective formulations are compiled in Tab. 2. The results of the soil removal tests using the soiling of vegetable oil and fat (soil 2) are shown in Fig. 10. The formulations JH#1 and JH#2, containing the narrow range nonionic C9-C11 4 EO (Berol 260), the cationic and co-surfactant Berol R648 NG and the strong chelating agent GLDA (Dissolvine GL-38) outperform the best market product available by far. The addition of a small amount of non-aqueous solvent to JH#1 leading to JH#2 further improves the cleaning efficiency. duction and transport costs and will have a better environmental profile. GLDA and MGDA also provide advantages in the laundry cleaning process. In general, heavy metals hamper stain removal. A percentage of 2 % chelate improves the removal of stains which are formed by heavy metals like iron and the sunscreen ingredient Avobenzone. An amount of 2 to 4 % chelate improves the color protection and retention of garments. Better dirt removal is achieved at low(er) temperatures, short(er) wash cycles and less agitation by Calcium-glue removal and prevention of the deactivation of anionic surfactants. With 5 to 10 % chelate added, less soap scum and calcium carbonate incrustation on laundry arise, thus resulting in better rinsability, less greying and improved whiteness. Additionally improved machine maintenance is achieved by less soap scum scaling and less lime scale on heat exchangers. Laundry Detergents The strong chelating agents GLDA and MGDA offer advantages at formulations and applications depending on the applied concentration. For liquid products a lot less (50 % or more) preservatives is required when 0.2 to 0.3 % chelates are added. This is because microorganisms are deprived of multivalent cations by chelates, weakening the outer surface, and are thus more vulnerable for the action of biocidals. Compared to EDTA, GLDA and MGDA are even more effective. A percentage of 0.2 to 0.3 % added chelate gives also more flexibility in dealing with process water and Ca from enzymes, and improves the shelf life and robustness of liquid formulations through retarded turbidity, improved color stability and retarded oxidative breakdown of oils and perfumes. With the addition of about 3 to 5 % chelates less anionic surfactants are needed, as no calcium soap deposits are formed. Super compact liquids of 10 % and more GLDA can save pro- Fig. 10 Determination of cleaning efficiency with narrow ranged nonionic C9-C11 4 EO (Berol 260), chelating agent GLDA and non-aqueous solvent PnP (Formulations JH #1 and JH #2 Julius Hoesch, Düren; tests: Julius Hoesch, Düren) Ingredients Market product Dasty Formulation JH #1 Formulation JH #2 ph-value * 10.8 * Solids ( %) Surfactants Chelates/Builders C9-11 Pareth-4 Berol R648 NG (cationic hydrotrope and co-surfactant) TKPP 1.6 % Berol % Berol R 648 NG (60 %) 2.0 % Dissolvine GL-38 (38 % GLDA-Na 4 ) 1.6 % Berol % Berol R 648 NG (60%) 2.0 % Dissolvine GL-38 (38% GLDA-Na 4 ) Ethanolamine 3.0 % 3.0 % Non-aqueous solvent 2.5 % PnP Water ad % (demineralized) 89.3 % (demineralized) *ph to 10.8 with citric acid Tab. 2 Performance improvement of kitchen cleaners by narrow ranged nonionic C9-C11 4 EO (Berol 260), chelating agent GLDA and non-aqueous solvent PnP (Formulations JH #1 and JH #2 Julius Hoesch, Düren; tests: Julius Hoesch, Düren) 05/ sofwjournal 15

18 home care chelating agents content Dish Detergents In automatic dish washing (ADW), hard water cations form with carbonate and dirt partly insoluble salts, which precipitate in the cleaning liquor and are deposited as scale on table-ware, glasses and cutlery. Those scales can be further build-up by an inadequate rinsing and drying process, leading to unacceptable filming and spotting. Strong chelating agents like GLDA, MGDA, EDTA and NTA will not only soften the water, but also have the power to dissolute scale, and thus will prevent scale build-up. Weak chelating agents like citrate cannot re-dissolve this scale. For All-in-1 ADW products normally an equimolar amount of chelate to hard water cations is needed. Also the addition of crystal growth inhibitors (like polymers or phosphonates), which will stop the buildup of a CaCO 3 film in the rinsing step is crucial. In institutional dish wash, the dark brown tea-stain residues are often seen as the most difficult stains to remove. The mechanical dish washing (MDW) is normally carried out with cleaners containing high amounts of sodium hydroxide and high amounts of strong sequestrants (like EDTA, NTA, GLDA or MGDA). Both ingredients are key to remove tea-stains from table-ware. Combinations of high caustic with weaker chelates like TKPP (tetrapotassium pyrophosphate), trisodium citrate and KTPP (potassium tripolyphosphate) do not bring satisfactory removal of tea stains. GLDA has a significantly higher solubility than all other chelates in a cleaner solution containing high amounts of caustic soda. The high solubility of GLDA makes (ultra) MDW compacts possible. Fig. 11 shows the solubility of sodium chelates depending on the sodium hydroxide concentration. Hand Dish Detergents Fig. 11 Solubility of sodium chelates depending on the sodium hydroxide concentration With respect to hand dish detergents, adding GLDA will give a more stable recipe, more foam and a higher gloss on table-ware, due to the fact that less calcium interacts with the anionic surfactants. The formulation will also need less preservative and is thus probably more skin friendly. Hand dish detergents containing GLDA are very effective and reported to replace an entire night soak into 10 minutes. Final Conclusions For a lot of detergents and cleaning products, small amounts of chelates can be used for recipe stabilization and reduction of the amount of preservatives needed. Larger amounts of chelates added to those products will be able to catch hard water cations, and will thus improve the cleaning results. Many I&I market products are based on high levels of MGDA (Dissolvine M-40) and GLDA (Dissolvine GL-47-S and Dissolvine GL-38). Now also many home care products have increasingly high levels of those Dissolvines to obtain perfect cleaning results in a low temperature and short cycle easy cleaning action. contact Jan Seetz Technical Development Manager Chelates, Ethylene & Sulfur Derivatives Akzo Nobel Functional Chemicals B.V. Zutphenseweg AJ Deventer PO Box AA Deventer The Netherlands Tel.: jan.seetz@akzonobel.com Gabi Bongen JULIUS HOESCH GmbH & Co. KG Anwendungstechnik Birkendorfer Str Düren Germany Tel.: g.bongen@julius-hoesch.de Klaus Henning Mörikeweg Waldenbuch Germany Tel.: sofwjournal /18

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20 personal care skin care content Cleansing Formulations and their Effect on Skin C. Martinez Lerga abstract Recent trends of natural products in the Personal Care industry are growing. Public perception is that because a product is natural, on top of being better for the environment, it will have certain benefits. In this article we will discuss the perception of what is a natural ingredient and the use of natural and non-natural ingredients in cleansing formulations and their effect on the skin. Personal care industry has heavily invested in the promotion of several types of cleansers: Soaps, Syndets and Liquid Cleansers among many others. The promotion of certain benefits of particular formulations has also been directed to the defamation of other products, particularly when talking about Syndets and Soaps. Soaps alkaline ph and Syndets allergenic ingredients have been under discussion for years. Cleansing formulations need to be looked at in their totality and evaluated in relation to the end user. Soaps, Syndets and liquid cleansers all have positive and negative effects on the skin barrier. Many surfactants can be irritating and harmful for the skin if they are not formulated correctly. Formulations with humectants and lipidic content will be milder for the skin. These nourishing and moisturising ingredients will help reduce the potential damage that any chemical could inflict on the skin. Natural Ingredients The Personal Care business is a growing market with a sustained growth rate of nearly 5 % per year [1]. A trend of recent years is the rise in natural and sustainable cosmetics at a rate of 10 % per year with an estimated market valued at US15.98bn by 2020 [2]. In order to please this growing market global and local brands as well as manufacturers are re-evaluating the use of natural alternatives to synthetic ingredients. The willingness to increase this product range comes from the consumers awareness with 42% of UK shoppers buying natural personal care products because they believe it is better for the environment [3]. This suggests a link between sustainability and water free non-rinse products predicted to rise for One clear example is Korean brand Whamisa, offering of a range of water-free products replacing traditional purified water by botanical extracts. There is little understanding of the definition natural. This is a term that is not defined by the authorities, therefore is not legally regulated anywhere in the world. Occasionally, the word Natural is used as a Claim in Personal Care products to greenwash products. This is when the product contains one or more natural ingredients; although the product may not be completely natural. The term Natural Standard is defined by The Natural Products Association as [4]: Natural Ingredient: A product labelled natural should be made up of only, or at least almost only, natural ingredients and be manufactured with appropriate processes to maintain ingredient purity. Safety: A product labelled natural should avoid any ingredient with a suspected human health risk. This should be made up of only, or at least almost only, natural ingredients and be manufactured with appropriate processes to maintain ingredient purity. Under the Natural Standard for Personal Care Products, allowed ingredients come from or are made from a renewable resource found in nature (flora, fauna, mineral), with absolutely no petroleum compounds. Consequently the lack of any formal global regulation of the word natural is that consumers solely rely on pack claims. These claims can sometimes be misleading. That happens if not all the ingredients or supply chain are natural. The tendency to use the term natural ingredients in the personal care industry is showing a move tow ards the development of an agreed definition to define natural ingredients and natural cosmetics. Recently introduced, the COSMOS standard has been developed by five charter members including BDIH (Germany), Cosmebio (France), Ecocert Greenlife (France), ICEA (Italy) and Soil Association (UK). The COSMOS Standard considers the certification of products and the companies manufacturing processes based on the origin and processing of ingredients; the composition, storage, manufacturing of the product; packaging and the environment [5]. Belgium-based NATRUE [6] is an international non-profit association, whose key goal is to promote and protect natural beauty and skincare. For Natural Certification, the NATRUE standard requires finished products to fully comply with their criteria and contain at least 75 % certified products throughout the whole product range. 18 sofwjournal /18

21 content skin care personal care Cleansing Formulations According to Mintel s 2025 Beauty & Personal Care report, consumers are actively looking for efficient, but also gentle products, with as much as 57 % of US consumers looking for products with reduced number of chemicals. The consumer awareness on preservatives and other chemicals is also driving the popularity for milder ingredients. Claims such as sulfate-free indicate the replacement of traditional surfactants for less harsher surfactants. It has been shown that different types of formulations can have a diverse effect in the skin barrier due to the combination of ingredients used within. 48 % of South European consumers prefer to buy natural cosmetic products because they believe these products are better for their health [1]. Cleansers have been heavily criticised as a collective, but there are several types of cleansing formulations. Here are some examples [7]: Soaps This is a general term used for formulations containing alkaline salts from mainly solid fatty acids. Classic soaps: the most alkaline formulations were the ph is between 9 and 10. Glycerine bars: manufactured with natural oils produce a formulation with glycerine content. Glycerine is a humectant broadly used to moisturise and protect the skin. This helps to neutralise the alkali drying effect. Superfatted soaps: these contain glycerine but also a broad range of lipids that help replenish the lipidic layer in the skin (triglycerides, natural oils and fats). Antibacterial soaps: these would include antibacterial agents such as carbanile and triclosan. Syndet Bars Synthetic detergents bars made of surfactants such as sulfosuccinic acid esters and fatty acid isothionates. This is being promoted as a neutral formulation with ph ranging from 5 to 6. However, they contain synthetic components [9]. Liquid Cleansers Formulations that give a different type of sensorial to a typical solid bar. These can have a range of natural and synthetic surfactants as well as a range of humectants and lipidic content. Oil Free Cleansers Rich in fatty alcohols that allow the cleaning of the skin without the need for water. These formulations are fast drying and include humectants and moisturising agents to counteract the potential irritation. Cleansing Creams These formulations are a blend of surfactants, lipids and waxes. These have been traditionally used Britain in the treatment of Atopic dermatitis patients for their high fatty content which has the potential to form a protective barrier on the skin [7, 9]. 05/ sofwjournal 19

22 personal care skin care content Healthy Skin and Atopic Skin The perception of natural being better for health is also linked to the perception that a substantial part of the population has sensitive skin. Sensitive skin is defined as sensations of itchiness, dry skin and skin inflammation. Some studies show that 39% of the European population has sensitive skin women have a higher incidence than men. Skin sensitisation has got an increased incidence in the summer season, demonstrating the effects of different environmental factors such a UV light, pollution and heat [8]. One in four children in Europe suffers from Atopic Dermatitis (AD), an inflammatory skin disease. This severe skin affection is presented with desquamation and on occasion skin cracking. These symptoms are caused due to environmental factors and genetic disorders. AD patients suffer from a thinned Stratum Corneum (SC) due to a reduced corneocyte size and an altered lipidic composition which reduces the water loss pathway increasing the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) [9]. Skin Structure The skin is structured in several parts; epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. The epidermis is where the skin barrier is located. The epidermis is a stratum with a high concentration of keratin. The surface of the epidermis contains keratinized dead cells, each of them surrounded by a layer of lipids. The turnover of the cells from their formation to their desquamation is 30 days. The epidermis is formed by different stratums [10]: Stratum Basale: consists of a single layer of keratinocytes, these are generated by mitosis. Stratum Spinosum: consists of several layers of differentiated keratinocytes. Stratum Granulosum: consist in 3 4 layers of keratinocytes that contain keratohyalin granules and membrane-coating vesicles. At this point the cell dies and loses the nucleus. Stratum Corneum (SC): This consists of up to 30 layers of keratinised dead cells called corneocytes [8]. The SC is of a thickness of 5-20 µm. The corneocytes form the skin barrier. Its main function is to protect and regulate the internal metabolism. The upper layers of the SC are formed of about % protein of which keratin is the most abundant [11]. Patients with AD have an increased production of corneocytes and a delayed desquamation. AD patients suffer from a thinned SC due to a reduced corneocyte size and an altered lipidic composition. The reduction of the water loss pathway with the smaller corneocytes will increase the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). The dry skin of AD patients is because the SC has a water content below 10 % and is less capable of binding water than normal skin. Water content above 10% will allow the skin to bend with a higher flexibility and will avoid the cracking, and the scaled appearance of the skin [7]. Lipid Function in the SC The lipid bi-layers are present in the corneocytes to protect the cell, in Fig. 1. The skin lipid mixture accounts for approximately 15 % of the SC. This lipid mixture consists of; 47 % ceramides, 24 % cholesterol, 11 % fatty acids, and 18 % cholesterol esters. It is the actual physical packing of the lamellar lipids which provides a semi-permeable barrier for the water loss through the SC [12]. The lipid optimum structure is essential to maintain the permeability and right hydration level in the corneocytes [7, 13]. ph of the SC The SC ph is between ph 5 5.5, this is down to the enzymatic activity. The acidic ph may help to preserve a healthy skin barrier. Certain enzymes could be responsible for the degradation of the desmosomes and therefore assist the desquamation of the corneocytes. AD patients have a skin ph higher than patients with normal skin [7]. It has been shown that the soaking of skin for 21 hours in buffer solutions could indicate the skin behaviour. This was carried out with buffer solutions at ph 4, 6.5 and 10. The SC hold at ph 10 showed increased swelling, the lipids become more rigid possibly due to an increase in their transition temperature and reorganisation of their lamellar structure [14]. A study with a harsh ph neutralization of the SC showed abnormalities in the SC homeostasis, integrity and cohesion. The serine proteases activation results in the degradation of the corneodesmosomes. The barrier permeability is affected with the activity decrease of b-glucocerebrosidase resulting in a lipid processing defect [15]. Fig. 1 Lipid bi-layers are present in the corneocytes to protect the cell. This is formed by a lipidic lamellar layer formed of alternate spacing of water and a lipid mixture made up of ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids and cholesterol esters [11] 20 sofwjournal /18

23 content skin care personal care Questionable Objectivity As previously mentioned, a change of ph or the disruption of the lipids in the skin can have a detrimental effect on the skin barrier. Several studies have indicated the contra productive use of certain surfactants as skin cleansers [13,15-19]. It also has been indicated that there has been an increase interest in the cosmetic industry for the study of the effect of cleansers in the skin barrier. This incurs in a high rise of new measuring techniques and an increase the knowledge in the area. However, the objectivity of the test chosen by each party is still to be scrutinised. Each manufacturer will present the testing method and results that favour their product [16]. This is not applicable to all studies. However, it is down to the individual to evaluate the ethics and the information given to obtain a conclusion of what is more adequate for their conditions. Surfactants and other Ingredients Effect on the Skin It is known that the continuous use of surfactants for cleansing negatively affects the skin. For decades scientists have thought that the mechanism for the skin barrier damage was the lipid removal of the SC. The effect of ph on the skin barrier has also been highly marketed. In recent studies it has come to light that these are not the only mechanisms in which the skin barrier is damaged. The skin proteins denaturalisation and the interaction with the keratins is another mechanism. The collagen fibres and cell membranes swelling are because of the cellular lysis due to the cyto toxicity and several other mechanisms [14]. Surfactants are used in all the cleansing formulations and these are partly the cause of the damage generated in the skin barrier. The surfactants used differ in each type of formulation. Soaps, which are the salts formed from fatty acids, are non-sensitizer surfactants in themselves. Non-alkaline superfatted soaps are thought to be appropriate and effective for certain uses. These are considered to be less irritating than pure soaps [17]. In further tests a superfatted formulation was tested alongside a Syndet formulation. This showed the same behaviour as the Syndet one and it was milder than normal soap [18]. A study by Kao corporation suggested that the long term use of soap based cleansers did not have an influence in the capacity of the skin to maintain the ph [19]. Syndet bars contain different types of surfactants to soap bars. Syndets may contain cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB), preservatives and antimicrobial ingredients. These ingredients contained at low levels are known to be allergens [20]. Your partner for trustworthy clinical studies. Experience tailor-made clinical studies designed by experts. Benefit from validated and most accurate methods. Explore the possibilities of innovative technologies. Be sure that only state-of-the-art, approved equipment is used. Upon completion of the trial, receive study results you can rely on! 8,848 44, ,492 STUDIES CONDUCTED* PRODUCTS TESTED* SUBJECTS ENROLLED* *from 1994 through / sofwjournal 21

24 personal care skin care content Some studies looking at liquid cleansers containing a mix of anionic and amphoteric surfactants such as Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) and CAPB can also deplete the lipidic components of the skin when formulated without moisturising ingredients [21]. When taking into consideration soaps and Syndets in combination with AD skin, both can be detrimental. Soap can deplete inter-cellular lipids but CAPB used in Syndets has also been demonstrated to be a positive irritant in patch testing. However, Syndets are still considered mild in normal use. One particular study showed that the use of a mild non-drying soap could be recommended for AD patients for the improvement in severity of the skin lesions [22]. In general, bathing treatments needs to be looked into for each person/ patient. Some studies indicate that soaps should be used minimally and non-soap cleansers such as Syndets should be considered in patients with AD [23]. Liquid cleansing formulations are very frequently formulated with SLS. This is a well-known irritant commonly used to induce irritation as control in clinical studies. [7] It is the mechanism in which each surfactant interacts with the skin that is the key for the maintenance of the skin barrier. SLS with its small size means that both the monomer and the micelles can penetrate into the skin and disrupt the skin barrier. However, when used in combination with other ingredients the damage that inflicts is reduced [24]. Conclusions Cleansing formulations need to be looked in their totality and evaluated in relation to the end user. Soaps, Syndets and liquid cleansers all have positive and negative effects on the skin barrier. Many formulations can be irritating and negative for the skin if not formulated correctly. Formulations with humectants and lipidic content will be milder for the skin. These nourishing and moisturising ingredients will help reduce the potential damage that any chemical could inflict on the skin. References [1] [Online source] Global Organic Personal Care Products Market: Mapping Growth Hot Spots in Asia Pacific and North America to Prove Beneficial available from: visited on: 18/11/2017 [2] [Online source] Organic Personal Care Market Size To Reach USD 25.1 Billion By 2025 available from: global-organic-personal-care-market visited on: 18/08/2017. [3] [Online source]trends 2025 Beauty & Personal Care, available from: visited on: 18/08/2017. [4] [Online source] Natural Seal Certification, available from: org/npa/naturalseal Certification/NPANaturalStandardforPersonalCareProducts.aspx / visited on the 21/08/2017 [5] [Online Source] COSMOS Association, available from: org/about/, visited one the 21/08/2017. [6] [Online Source] Natrue Organisation, available from: visited one the 30/10/2017 [7] P. Mukhopadhyay, Indian J Dermatol. 2011, 56,(1): 2 6. doi: / [8] L. Misery, S. Boussetta, T. Nocera, N. Perez-Cullell and C. Taieb, J. Eur Acad Dermatol Venerol, 2009; 23, [9] M. Lodén, Clin. Dermatol., 2003, 21, (DOI: /S X(02) ). [10] K. Saladin, The unity of form and function, Mc Graw Hill, New york, [11] K. P. Ananthapadmanabhan, D. J. Moore, K. Subramanyan, M. Misra and F. Meyer, Dermatologic Therapy, 2004, 17, (DOI: /j S1002.x). [12] A. V. Rawlings, i. r. Scott, c. r. Harding and p. a. Bowser, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 1994, 103, (DOI: / ep ). [13] T.Marjukka Suhonen, J.A. Bouwstra and A. Urtti, J. Controlled Release, 1999, 59, , (DOI: /S (98) ) [14] K. Ananthapadmanabhan, A. Lips and C. Vincent, Int J Cosmet Sci 2003, 25, [15] J. P. Hachem, D. Crumrine, J. Fluhr, B. E. Brown, K. R. Feingold and P. M. Elias, J Invest Dermatol., 2003, 121, (DOI: /j x). [16] R. Wolf, L. C. Parish, Clinics in dermatology, 2012, 30, [17] DD. Strobe, G. Nicoll, cutis, 1987, 39, [18] MS. Wortzman, Dermatol Clin, 1991, 9, [19] Y. Takagi, K. Kaneda, M. Miyaki, K. Matsuo, H. Kawada and H. Hosokawa, Skin Research and Technology 2015, 21, , doi: /srt [20] MA. Flyvholm, Br J Ind Med, 1993, 50, [21] K. P. A Nanthapadmanabhan, DJ. Moore, K. Subramanyan, M. Misra and F. Meyer, Dermatologic Therapy, 2004, 17, [22] D. Breneman, J. Hanifin, C. Berge, B. Keswick and P. Neumann, 2000, Cutis, 66(4): [23] J. Gittler, J. Wang and S. Orlow, Am J Clin Dermatol, 2017, 18, 45 57, DOI /s [24] M.Walters, G. Mao, E. Gunn and S. Hornby, Dermatology Research and Practice 2012, 2012, , 9, doi: /2012/ contact Carmen Martinez Lerga Technical Innovations Manager Stephenson Group Ltd Leeds United Kingdom Carmen.MartinezLerga@StephensonGroup.co.uk 22 sofwjournal /18

25 BEL-EVEN Future-proof your skin from the effects of daily stress DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel Switzerland Phone: Fax: As a result of today s hyper-connected, 24/7 hectic lifestyle, research suggests that consumers may be more stressed today than ever before. The link between stress and high levels of Cortisol has been established for decades. Recent studies have now shown that sustained lifestyle stress also has distinct, visible impacts on skin. For the first time, one cosmetic ingredient has been proven to address the key skin concerns associated with long-term emotional stress. BEL-EVEN, is a new patented cosmetic ingredient that inhibits in vitro 11β-HSD1, a key enzyme in the cortisol pathway in the skin. It locally rebalances the negative impact of stress on skin and contributes to the evolving self-care trend. BEL-EVEN, visibly reduces signs of a stressful lifestyle, for fuller, more supple-looking skin with improved skin elasticity and greater barrier integrity.

26 personal care antimicrobial efficacy content Substantiation of Antibacterial/antimicrobial Caims for Cosmetic Products (as of June 2017) B. Tyralla, A. Keck-Wilhelm, A. Burkhard, B. Fellenberg, O. Sponheimer, J. Rabenhorst Introduction A product applied on external parts of the human body, which is claimed as antibacterial or antimicrobial, can, from the legal point of view, be classified as either biocidal or as a cosmetic product. If, however, the claim or advertising explicitly refers to the treatment or the relief of an illness caused by bacteria/microorganisms the product has to be classified as a drug. It is of critical significance to differentiate between a cosmetic product and a biocidal product that claims for the antimicrobial efficacy can be judged as secondary compared to the main cosmetic purposes in the sense of Art. 2, 1(a) of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 [1]. If the product is classified as cosmetic product, adequate and verifiable proof of the claimed antimicrobial efficacy has to be provided with regard to the provisions made in Annex I, 3 of the VO (EC) 655/2013 [2]. Detailed legal requirements or binding normative standards regarding the kind and extent of such proof is, however, missing for cosmetic products. This position paper shall give proposals and assistance for choosing appropriate proof. Requirements and Standards of other Areas (Overview see Tab. 1) The highest demands with respect to antimicrobial claims are found in normative standards for the testing of chemical disinfectants and antiseptics in the medical area. If a bactericidal efficacy shall be claimed in case of products for hygienic hand disinfection, the requirements of the European Norm EN 1040 (Phase 1, basic test), EN (Phase 2.1) and EN 1500 (Phase 2.2) have to be applied. Products for hygienic hand wash must Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics the for medical, veterinary-medical and food area, microbicidal efficacy EN 14885:2014, Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Application of European Standards for chemical disinfectants and antiseptics EN 1040, Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Quantitative suspension test for the evaluation of basic bactericidal activity of chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Test method and requirements (phase 1) EN 13727, Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Quantitative suspension test for the evaluation of bactericidal activity in the medical area Test method and requirements (phase 2, step 1) EN 1500, Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Hygienic handrub Test method and requirements (phase 2/step 2) EN 1499, Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Hygienic handwash Test method and requirements (phase 2/step 2) EN 12791, Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Surgical hand disinfection Test method and requirements (phase 2, step 2) EN 1276, Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Quantitative suspension test for the evaluation of bactericidal activity of chemical disinfectants and antiseptics used in food, industrial, domestic and institutional areas Test method and requirements (phase 2, step 1) EN 1650, Chemical disinfectants and antiseptics Quantitative suspension test for the evaluation of fungicidal or yeasticidal activity of chemical disinfectants and antiseptics used in food, industrial, domestic and institutional areas Test method and requirements (phase 2, step 1) Tab. 1 Requirements and norms in non-cosmetic areas 24 sofwjournal /18

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28 personal care antimicrobial efficacy content fulfil the requirements of Phase 2.2 of norm EN The Phase 2.2 for testing products for surgical hand disinfection and surgical hand wash is given in norm EN Test instructions are also available for chemical disinfectants (biocidal products) for application in the food area, industrial areas, households and public facilities. Products for hygienic hand wash should be tested according to norm EN 1276 (Phase 2.1) and EN 1499 (Phase 2.2), whereas testing of products which claim hygienic hand disinfection is described in EN (Phase 2.1). If an additional fungicidal efficacy is claimed, tests for Phase 2.1 in accordance with EN 1650 must also be carried out. A complete overview of all European norms for chemical disinfectants and antiseptics is provided in EN Recommendations for Testing Cosmetic Products for which a Microbicidal, Microbiostatic or Antibacterial Resp. Antimicrobial Efficacy is Claimed Cosmetic products with microbicidal, microbiostatic or antibacterial resp. antimicrobial efficacy are found in different product groups. Classical application areas are hand washing and mouth wash products, but also deodorants and products to treat skin impurities. Amongst the skin care products respective claims are mostly used in the foot care area, but also increasingly for body care products. There are products, which, according to their application instructions, are used under conditions of a high load (application with or without water on skin which has not been pre-cleaned). Such products are, for example, hand washing products or wet tissues for hand cleaning without water. Products for the application under conditions of a low load (application on precleaned skin) are in case of respective application instructions e.g. deodorants and antibacterial facial tonics. A differentiation has to be made between claims without specified efficacy against microorganisms: antimicrobial: efficient against bacteria and fungi an antiviral efficacy is not relevant for cosmetic products due to the differentiation from drugs antibacterial: efficient against bacteria antimycetic, antifungal: efficient against fungi and claims which are either explicitly aimed at a killing effect (microbicidal, bactericidal or fungicidal) or at a growth inhibiting effect (microbiostatic, bacteriostatic or fungistatic). Claims such as kills 99.9% of the bacteria must also be understood as having a killing effect. When claiming a killing effect, an efficacy as given in the norms for chemical disinfectants should be reached: this means a reduction of the microbial count by 3-5 log-units. If a growth inhibiting effect is claimed the count should be kept on the same level (minus the microbiological measuring inaccuracy) over the contact time as given by the respective type of application. Anti - claims cannot be defined as scientific terms. The way of testing efficacy is not precisely determined. Minimum requirements for the use of such claims should therefore be applied with regard to the protection of the consumer from deceptive advertising. Anti - claims should be substantiated through quantitative proof of the killing or growth inhibiting efficacy in tests, which simulate conditions representing those given in the application instructions. In case of killing effects the test-result should show a reduction of the count (expressed as log-reduction value ) which is at least 2 log-units higher than the acceptable range of deviation for such microbiological testing (acc. EN [3]: 0.5 log). The practice-relevance of the required reduction of 2 logunits cannot be verified in such a test-system. The same is also true for reduction-factors applied for the efficacy- testing of chemical disinfectants. The relevance of such reduction-factors with regard to the skin physiology can hardly be evaluated. Such tests should just be understood as test-models and cannot represent the reality in all aspects. When defining and performing the tests, the following aspects should be observed: The product marketed with a specific claim must be identical to the product used in the test. Basic tests (e.g. acc. EN 1040) may help to evaluate the microbiocidal efficacy of an active agent or of a product under development. The results of such tests, however, cannot be used as proof of product-claims without additional tests correlated with the relevant application conditions. Accordingly, for such additional tests methods have to be chosen which are adapted to the instructed application of 7days The Weekly Newsletter for the Home & Personal Care Industry Latest Product Innovations Economic Trends Business News sign up for SOFW7days Get it. Read it. Use it. 26 sofwjournal /18

29 content antimicrobial efficacy personal care Product-group Test-organisms Contact-time Method based on Handwash* Reference-strains acc. EN 30 sec, 60 sec, 120 sec EN 1040, EN 1276, if applicable: additional practice-tests (Phase 2.2) Deo Staphylococcus spec. Corynebacterium spec. 60 min, 8 hrs, 48 hrs ** EN 1040, EN 1276 Foot care (leave on) Epidermophyton floccosum Trichophyton mentagrophytes Trichophyton rubrum 15 min, 30 min EN 1275, EN 1650 Anti-spot-products 30 sec, 60 sec, 120 sec Propionibacterium acnes Wash-gel etc., Mask, leave on 5 min, 30 min, 60 min EN 1040, EN 1276 Mouth-wash/Dental creme Streptococcus mutans Streptococcus oralis 30 sec, 60 sec, 120 sec EN 1040, EN 1276 Actinomyces odontolyticus Anti-dandruff shampoo Malassezia furfur 30 sec, 60 sec, 120 sec EN 1040, EN 1276 * The minimum application time of 30 s has to be mentioned on the product. ** If an efficacy for a period of 48 hrs is used as a promotional claim. Tab. 2 Recommendations for the selection of test-methods and relevant test-organisms of specific products or application areas and recommended contact-times the product. The test-performance should respect the load resulting from the instructed application. Standardized methods for practice-tests (Phase 2.2) can only be used for selected product-types, e.g. hand-soap and hand cleaning-gel. The kind of application (rinse-off or leave-on) as well as the application area (e.g. face, hands, mouth and intimate area) must be taken into consideration. To prove the killing efficacy of products which are rinsed off the skin, it is recommended to used normative tests for biocidal efficacy and to adapt these tests with respect to the microbial spectrum, the contact time and the evaluation of cosmetic products. Growth inhibiting effects on microorganisms, however, cannot be examined in these tests, since the contact time on skin is usually shorter than the time needed for growth or inhibition of the microorganisms. For this group of products, it is advisable to perform additional practice resp. application tests in which the respective product is used according to the instructed application. Examples for application tests can be found in literature [4,5]. For products, which stay on the skin, tests should be adapted in a way that the undiluted application of the product is taken into account. A justification for the selection of the test-system used should be included in the product-documentation. Recommendations for the selection of test-systems, relevant test-organisms for specific products or applications and recommended contact times are given in, Tab. 2. Literature [1] EC: REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products [2] EC: REGULATION (EC) No 655/2013 of 10 July 2013 laying down common criteria for the justification of claims used in relation to cosmetic products [3] DIN EN ISO 17516:2014: Cosmetics Microbiology Microbiological limits [4] Eigener U., Behrens U.: Untersuchungen zur Wirksamkeit eines Hausdesinfektionsmittels; Hyg.+Med. 9, (1984) [5] Eddy E.A.: Sampling the bacteria of the skin; Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin; CRS Press (2006) contact Barbara Tyralla Andrea Keck-Wilhelm Dr. Annemarie Burkhard Dr. Bernhard Fellenberg Dr. Otto Sponheimer Prof. Dr. Jürgen Rabenhorst Correspondence: Dipl. Ing. Joelle Nussbaum Leiterin der Fachgruppe Mikrobiologie und Betriebshygiene der DGK BAV INSTITUT GmbH Tel.: joelle.nussbaum@bav-institut.de 05/ sofwjournal 27

30 specialties testing content Preservative Efficacy Test for Cosmetic Products How to Reach a Valid Efficacy Statement U. Eigener abstract The preservative efficacy test is a test method that is used to evaluate microbiological product stability (preservative efficacy). The performance of such test is also part of the legal requirements to prove the adequate microbiological quality and product safety of cosmetic products. It must, however, be emphasised that the efficacy statement provided in such tests cannot be seen as a proof of microbiological product safety. Historical data show that attempts to improve the validity of the efficacy statement by changing the test method or the required death kinetics have been disappointing. This paper describes a method that can lead to an improved efficacy statement. The principle is to use the preservative efficacy test as part of the microbiological quality management (MQM) system in such way that data and knowledge gained from the system are used to adapt the test to the actual situation. Efficacy testing, as specified in ISO 11930, can be used as the basic test method. The exact test protocol, however, must be applied, the spectrum of test-microorganisms should be extended and subsequent repetitions of the test are needed in case of relevant changes (formula, raw materials, production process). In the event of specific problems, additional testing can be conducted (e.g., in-use tests, repetitive PET). The implementation of an MQM-system is a prerequisite for the success of this approach. 1. Preservative Efficacy Test and Microbiological Product Safety The preservative efficacy test (PET) (also known as the challenge test ) is the accepted test of the preservative efficacy (microbiological formula stability) of cosmetic products. This test is also part of the safety report that is a legal requirement in the EU [1, 2]. Proof of microbiological product safety requires more than just a successful PET. I have previously emphasised [3] that the PET is only a part of the safety statement. To control all influences on safety, a systematic approach must be used, and the PET is only part of this system. The requirements of the aforementioned EC regulation regarding microbiological product quality should be seen as only an end-point. Reliably reaching this end-point requires meeting quite a number of demands, which can be found in the regulation. Given that quality must be seen as a precondition of safety, the microbiological quality management (MQM) system can be used as the basis for microbiological product safety. Using this system allows control of factors that have a direct impact on product safety. Standard ISO [4] provides a PET method for testing and evaluating the microbiological formula stability of cosmetic products. Nevertheless, critical issues related to the efficacy statement given in the PET remain. The extensive discussion of the preservation of cosmetic products in the literature has highlighted the discrepancies between PET results and the situation that may occur in practice (see information given in [5, 6, 7, 8, 9]). Efforts have been made over many years to improve the practice relevance of the PET: by other test methods (e.g., repetitive tests, tests with product dilution), by the addition of other tests (e.g., in-use tests) or by choosing stricter death-kinetics. A satisfactory solution, however, has not yet been found. This failure reflects the fact that stricter requirements usually lead to the need for higher preservative concentrations, which is not in keeping with current demands for good compatibility and low toxicological effects. Another method must be found to improve the validity of efficacy statements resulting from the PET. The introduction of ISO [4] showed that the classic test method for the PET and the usual evaluation criteria can still be used in the cosmetics field. This makes sense when looking at the unsuccessful attempts at methodological changes described above, and is also in keeping with personal experience over many years. To improve the relevance of the test result it is, however, essential to observe additional requirements. The solution is to integrate the PET more intensively and carefully into the overall system used to ensure reliable microbiological product safety. For this intended purpose, the exact use of the test method is needed, and additional safety-relevant aspects must be incorporated into the test system. The MQM system provides relevant information. The management system must also be used to communicate the relevant information to those points where decisions are made about the test performance and where the microbiological safety assessment is made. In addition, failures and missing efficacy must be detected and evaluated in time, and adequate countermeasures 28 sofwjournal /18

31 content testing specialties must be taken. This includes activities regarding preservation and testing, but also in other parts of the system. In this way, failures in the test performance can be avoided, the test is more clearly connected with the practice situation, risks are reduced and microbiological safety is improved. Using the different system elements in this way, it is very important to take account of relevant changes and to consequently apply the PET for the actually valid situation. 2. Influences on the Efficacy Statement of the Preservative Efficacy Test For the PET to provide a reliable statement with regard to product safety, a number of influences must be respected. The target is to realise possible impacts and to respect them in the test system to avoid failures during the test performance and drawing wrong conclusions from the test results. A summary diagram of the relevant influences is provided in Fig. 1. All the aspects mentioned have an impact on microbiological product safety and must be observed when working with the MQM. 2.1 Test Performance Exactly defining and using the test methods provides the basis for conducting the test in a reproducible way, and thereby minimising failures. Besides providing detailed instructions on the test method, the qualification required to conduct the test is needed. If the tests are conducted in accordance with ISO 11930, a detailed description of the test method and the evaluation criteria are given in the standard. The DGK provides additional advisable information about test parameters, handling and interpretation of such tests [10]. The text that follows mentions only selected aspects. To obtain test organisms with defined stability, the specified pre-culture conditions for the test microorganisms must be carefully observed. The importance of adequate neutralisation of inhibiting effects originating from formula ingredients in the subcultures also cannot be overemphasised. The test method (ISO and similar methods) can be used for water-miscible and water-soluble products: the challenge is performed by means of an inoculation of the product with a watery suspension of the test microorganisms. For example, the method should not be used for products that are not miscible in water (e.g., water-free powders): in such a case, neither a homogeneous distribution of the inoculation suspension nor a reproducible re-collection of microorganisms is achievable. Furthermore, in the case of w/o-emulsions, the adequacy of the method has been discussed and test adaptations have been suggested [7]. In such cases, an in-use test may be used, or the efficacy statement must be based on different effects (e.g., physicochemical formula characteristics). The value of the test can be improved considerably by adding microorganisms from the practice environment. The inclusion of such test microorganisms in the test is widely recommended [2, 10]. For this purpose, respective microorganism-strains must be isolated and identified when performing control checks in the environment (manufacturing area, market). It is also advisable to use additional microorganisms that are identified as relevant in the literature (see also 2.4). Even though the ISO method is here offered as standard, it is important to note that other methods of testing preservative efficacy may also be used [2]. As mentioned above, the standard cannot be used for all product types. Beyond this, other supplementary test systems may be used for specific application situations or for special types of products (e.g., wet-wipes) [11, 12]. Besides the choice of the test method, it is necessary to define the type of death kinetics to be used (evaluation criteria). The criteria in ISO are recommended [4]. More-stringent criteria can be restricted to a few special cases. The use of less-stringent criteria for specific products/product-groups should be supported by valid scientific reasoning and good experience. If for certain test systems no criteria are available (e.g., in-use tests), relevant criteria must be developed and reasonably defined. 2.2 Changes to the Product Fig. 1 Influences on the PET to be observed for reaching a better efficacy statement During the development process, the formula preservation is defined and the efficacy is checked with the PET. To reach the final product formula, usually quite a number of different formulas will be used, for which formula ingredients are changed qualitatively 05/ sofwjournal 29

32 specialties testing content and quantitatively. Accordingly, a change of preservation may be needed: the preservative system must fit with the other ingredients, which must not negatively influence the efficacy of the preservative system. The basic demand of Cowen and Steiger [13] that the preservative system must be tailored to the specific product is still valid. Formula ingredients and characteristics may have various impacts on preservative efficacy, as underlined in the literature [e.g., 8, 14]. By applying the PET to different formulas during the development, a stepwise and secured efficacy statement can be achieved. The preservative efficacy must also be stable during the product s shelf-life and use period. Even though the product s type of packaging cannot be directly checked in the PET, it may be important for microbiological product stability [9]. In some cases, reactions between preservative and packaging material are possible, but the type of packaging will definitely have an impact on the hygiene situation during use of the product. Therefore, it is advisable to take account of the type of packaging when defining the PET requirements for example, using microorganisms from the practice situation or increasing the test criteria. The influence of packaging can be checked with an in-use test. In addition, the type and quality of raw materials may influence preservative efficacy. This may result from raw-material preservation or reactions between preservative and raw material (residual substances from the raw-material production must be observed as well!). Therefore, it is important to monitor whether the same raw material (producer, supplier, specifications, etc.) is used in the development process and for the later production process. It is advisable to define the raw material during the development process. Availability for the production process and the application possibilities should, however, also be observed. Materials management and quality assurance should be involved to make sure that the defined raw material is used in manufacturing. Finally, the basic production method is defined in the development process. If the production method differs from the way the product was prepared in development (e.g., sequence of phases, composition of phases, temperatures applied), different influences on the preservative efficacy cannot be excluded. Looking for such changes and performing additional tests (incl. PET) are usually done in the scale-up process. This should be a defined process that is the responsibility of development and manufacturing, and which controls the transfer of the product from the development phase into the manufacturing process [14, 15, 16]. 2.3 Changes to the Manufacturing Process Raw-material quality and upscaling-process were covered in the preceding section (2.2) because they must be taken into account in both the development and manufacturing processes. Further changes to the raw materials (this sometimes happens during the running manufacture, see section 3) and the production method, compared with the parameters defined during development and upscaling processes, may be initiated in the manufacturing process. In that event, it is also necessary to check if a negative impact on the preservative efficacy can be excluded, or if a new PET must be conducted. It has been mentioned before that the conditions during production may have an influence on a product s preservative efficacy. A reaction of preservatives with other formula ingredients is possible as a result of mixing sequence or phase-composition. Preservatives may react with parts of the equipment (e.g., adsorption of filter materials), they are affected by temperature or other production parameters (it is essential to observe the acceptable variation range of some parameters in the production process!). Such factors may lead to reduced efficacy, as well as the partition effect (binding of the molecule in a lipophilic phase, which impairs bioavailability) [16]. Widespread lack of awareness of such influences leads to frequent changes to production methods, without considering the possible effects on microbiological product stability. Such effects can also occur with a change of production plant, which could be connected to different raw-material qualities and/or a change of production method. Changing the production plant or only changing the production equipment may also produce considerably different hygiene conditions. Contamination problems may appear in the manufacturing area, even though the PET has shown adequate efficacy. Each preservative effect can be spoiled by excessive numbers of microorganisms. This may occur as a result of high punctual contamination of the product. Such situations may arise if non-preserved, or only partially preserved, phases are contaminated. Contamination sources may be highly contaminated water or product residues in valves or other parts of the equipment. Risks of this kind underline the importance of adequate hygiene measures especially the cleaning and disinfection of production equipment. It must, however, not be the objective of preservation to cover such hygiene failures. Therefore, the requirements for the PET must not be increased in response to the hygiene situation. The response in such a case must be to intensify the hygiene measures and to install effective controls. 2.4 Microorganisms from the Practice Environment As already mentioned (section 2.1), it is advisable to include microorganisms from the practice environment as test organisms in the PET. Such microorganisms should be used selectively to avoid an excessive extension of the test. The test extension can be limited by using these practice microorganisms only for specific products or product groups, or in connection with certain preservation systems, according to experience. Besides the use of relevant microorganisms mentioned in the literature, strains should be used as isolated from control checks in the manufacturing area or from market surveillance (e.g., complaints). Detecting such microorganism strains requires regular and methodologically exact controls. The strains should be identified for the use in the PET. These strains should be added to the collection of test-strains and should be pre-cultured for the test as instructed. 30 sofwjournal /18

33 content testing specialties A special case is contamination problems that result from adapted microorganism strains, which generally occur because of hygiene failures in the production environment. Adapted strains are generally not covered by the usual PET because they are more stable than the standard test organisms. Adapted strains cannot be tested in the usual PET because their stability is not genetically fixed. Thus, different test methods have to be applied. In these tests, the test strains used must be taken directly from the contaminated product without cultivation; therefore, these tests can be used only in direct connection with the contamination problem [9, 12]. If contamination with adapted strains is observed, countermeasures are primarily needed regarding the hygiene conditions. If such action is unsuccessful, the formula regarding the preservation system must inevitably be changed. 3. System Application and Preservative Efficacy Test It has been noted previously that the target of microbiological quality and product safety of cosmetic products can be reliably reached only through the application of a quality-management system [12, 17, 18]. The management system ensures that the different factors that influence a product s microbiological quality and safety are adequately handled. In the system, processes are kept under control, tests and control checks are performed in an appropriate and effective way, results and information are communicated to the relevant parts of the organisation and respective evaluations and decisions are made. In addition, necessary qualifications, authorisation and responsibilities are defined. The MQM system should be applied to make sure that attention is paid to the aspects mentioned in sections 1 and 2, and that they are used to enhance the PET. To this end, it is essential that relevant results, data and knowledge are communicated via different organisational units to the point where they are needed. Tab. 1 presents three examples of such communication paths. For the influences mentioned to be used in a helpful way in the PET, it must be ensured that relevant information and results are gained in a microbiologically correct way, and that qualified pre-decisions have been made before using them in the PET. This implies, for example, the choice of reasonable control checks, correct technical performance and adequate decisions regarding the test microorganisms, the need for repetitive testing and the relevance of changes. The requirement for microbiological qualifications and the authority to make such decisions must be defined according to the needs of the specific organisational structure in each company. The involvement of any external partners must also be taken into account for the system organisation [3]. Section 2 describes how the PET s efficacy statement can especially be improved by observing relevant changes in daily business practice (e.g., formula, raw material, production method). Meeting this requirement means that new PETs must be conducted if, for the given change, a change of preservative efficacy cannot be excluded. Such a procedure is in keeping with the requirements of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 [1], which calls for the the safety assessment to be updated if new knowledge is gained. This underlines the important role of change management in the management system. Whenever weak points of efficacy or other failures (e.g., contaminations, not working according to instructions) are detected through controls and efficacy testing, which might result in a risk to microbiological product safety, countermeasures must be taken promptly. This applies to hygiene in the manufacturing area and to the production process, but also to product characteristics and the preservative system. A careful root cause analysis and a professional microbiological evaluation must be carried out, and follow up-activities (corrections, corrective actions) are required. Depending on the root cause analysis, it may be necessary to improve the preservative efficacy. This could be achieved through formula changes, higher concentration of the preservative, changes to the production method or even the use of a different preservative system. It may, however, be necessary to change the test system. All such improvements necessitate the performance of additional PETs (if necessary, also with the detected contamination microorganisms). New knowledge about contamination, and therefore regarding the PET s efficacy statement, which is directly connected Organisational Units A, B, C Organisational Unit D Activity Information obtained Include information in PET 1. Hygiene control checks in the manufacturing area 2. Complaints handling 3. Change of raw-material supplier (units involved: Mat.-Management., Development., QA, Production) MO detected that regularly appears in specific product-type and production equipment Regular product contaminations in the market New raw material used in the formula Decision about MO as test organism for respective product/equipment Risk assessment with dependent decision to include MO in the PET or to change PET method/evaluation Compare formulas (old new) in the PET Tab. 1 Information flow between different organisational units: data and knowledge relevant for performing and evaluating the PET (examples) 05/ sofwjournal 31

34 specialties testing content to safety statements, requires the involvement of the person responsible for the microbiological safety assessment. This person must decide whether the previous safety statement needs to be adapted to the new situation. If in this context countermeasures and additional testing are required, these activities must be carried out reliably, and any corrective actions required must be fixed in the system. Because of the relevance of the system application to microbiological product safety, the safety assessment should include a check for the implementation and application of an MQM system [3, 18]. It has been known since the early days of the PET that this in vitro test provides only a hint, rather than proof, of microbiological product stability. Consequently, beyond the PET, microbiological product safety requires the establishment of a quality-management system and a safety assessment. In the context of such safety requirements, the validity of the PET s efficacy statement, and consequently the microbiological product safety, should be confirmed by market surveillance data [3, 12]. 3.1 Test Samples for the Preservative Efficacy Test The need to obtain an efficacy statement from the PET that is as near to the practice situation as possible primarily requires the reliable inclusion of changes to the product and the production process. This can achieved only if the PET is performed with product samples that verifiably originate from respective processes. I dare to suggest that contamination problems appearing after a PET has successfully been passed in development are, to a great extent, caused by later changes that have not been counter-checked in a further PET. Accordingly, the microbiological safety assessment should not only check for a valid PET method and evaluation, but also ascertain if the tests were conducted with actual product samples. This, however, calls for reliable documentation, which allows for the identification and traceability of the test samples. References [1] EC: Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products [2] SCCS: The SCCS s notes of guidance for the testing of cosmetic ingredients and their safety evaluation 4-4 Guidelines on microbial quality of the finished cosmetic product (9th rev., 29 Sept 2015_rev vers. 25 Apr 2016) [3] EIGENER, U.: Bedeutung des Konservierungsbelastungstests für die mikrobiologische Sicherheitsbewertung kosmetischer Mittel. In: DGK (Hrsg.), Konservierung kosmetischer Mittel Prüfmethoden, Teststrategie und Wirkungsabsicherung. Verlag für chemische Industrie, H. Ziolkowsky, Thannhausen, 2015 [4] ISO: DIN EN ISO 11930:2012 Cosmetics Microbiology Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product [5] BRANNAN, D.K.: Cosmetic preservation. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 46, (1995) [6] EIGENER, U.: Müssen Konservierungsmittel mikrobizid wirken? J. Pharmatechnol. 10/Nr. 5, (1989) [7] EIGENER,U.: Methoden zur Bewertung der Konservierung kosmetischer Mittel. In: M. Heinzel (Hrsg.), Mikrobiologische Qualität kosmetischer Mittel. Behr s Verlag, Hamburg, 1993 [8] EIGENER, U.: Konservierung und mikrobiologische Stabilität von Kosmetika. Parf.u. Kosmetik 75, (1994) [9] EIGENER, U.: Konservierung von Kosmetika.In: A. Kramer und O. Assadian (Hrsg.), Wallhäußers Praxis der Sterilisation, Desinfektion, Aseptik und Konservierung Qualitätssicherung der Hygiene in Industrie, Pharmazie und Medizin. G. Thieme Verlag Stuttgart New York, 2008 [10] DGK: Konservierung kosmetischer Mittel Prüfmethoden, Teststrategie und Wirkungsabsicherung. Verlag für chemische Industrie, H. Ziolkowsky, Thannhausen, 2015 [11] EIGENER, U.: Ergänzende Versuchsanordnungen und Bewertungssysteme zum Konservierungsbelastungstest. In: DGK (Hrsg.), Konservierung kosmetischer Mittel Prüfmethoden, Teststrategie und Wirkungsabsicherung. Verlag für chemische Industrie, H. Ziolkowsky, Thannhausen, 2015 [12] EIGENER, U.: Mikrobiologische Qualität und Produktsicherheit kosmetischer Mittel. Behr s Verlag, Hamburg, 2018 [13] COWEN, R.A. and B. STEIGER: Why a preservative system must be tailored to a specific product. Cosm. Toil. 95, (1977) [14] SCHOLTYSSEK, R.; R. SIMMERING: Rezepturentwicklung unter mikrobiologischen Gesichtspunkten. In: DGK (Hrsg.), Konservierung kosmetischer Mittel Prüfmethoden, Teststrategie und Wirkungsabsicherung. Verlag für chemische Industrie, H. Ziolkowsky, Thannhausen, 2015 [15] Colipa: Cosmetic good manufacturing practices. Brüssel, 1994 [16] EIGENER, U.; J. NUSSBAUM; O. SPONHEIMER: Absicherung der Konservierungswirkung im Herstellprozess. In: DGK (Hrsg.), Konservierung kosmetischer Mittel Prüfmethoden, Teststrategie und Wirkungsabsicherung. Verlag für chemische Industrie, H. Ziolkowsky, Thannhausen, 2015 [17] EIGENER, U.: Microbiological safety assessment of cosmetic products in practice - Part 1, Basic elements of the assessment. SÖFW-J. 142 (1), (2016) [18] EIGENER, U.: Systematic detection of microbial contamination-risks of cosmetic products in the context of the safety-assessment. SÖFW-J. 142 (7), 2-11 (2016) contact Dr. Ulrich Eigener Schulteßstieg Hamburg Germany ulrich.eigener@t-online.de 32 sofwjournal /18

35 33 rd International Exhibition for Fine and Speciality Chemicals The industry s premier sourcing and networking event Some 400 international exhibitors offer bespoke solutions and specific substances to enhance products or develop new chemical solutions. Fine and speciality chemicals for various industries: pharmaceuticals agrochemicals petrochemicals cosmetics adhesives & sealants paints & coatings polymers biotechnology colourants & dyestuffs food & drink industrial cleaning reprography & printing water treatment and much more. Top conferences and workshops offer valuable insights into ongoing R&D projects! Agrochemical Lecture Theatre Chemspec Careers Clinic Pharma Lecture Theatre Regulatory Services Lecture Theatre RSC Lecture Theatre Innovative Start-ups Koelnmesse Cologne, Germany JUNE Organisers: June 2018 Koelnmesse Cologne, Germany

36 content news 1/18 Current Movements in the Regulatory Environment 12 th Lecture Event of the SEPAWA Specialist Group Legislative Environment Consumer H. J. Scholz On 15 th March 2018, the SEPAWA Specialist Group LUV invited to its 12 th lecture event in Frankfurt. The event, which took place on the premises of the Chemical Industry Association (VCI) in the Mainzer Landstraße 55, was conducted by Dr. Wolfgang Leonhardt. He substituted Specialist Group Chairman Dr. Roland Schröder, who was unable to attend. The speakers were representatives from ministries, authorities and the industry. 34 delegates visited this event with its many interesting and informative presentations which dealt with current topics. Rosemarie Greiwe (Ministry of Labor, Health and Social Affairs of North Rhine-Westphalia) reported on the revision and compliance of sales deadlines of products which are subject to CLP regulations. The title of her presentation was Do Away with Shelf Warmers. Products with outdated labelling according to the directive that were taken from the shelves. Likewise, wrong labelling was observed and prosecuted with a respective fine. In his lecture named Biocidal Product Families: Predestined for Trouble? Dr. Wolfgang Leonhardt (Evonik AG) reported on the registration of biocidal product families by the ingredient manufacturers. There has been criticism that up until now, only few data on application and storage stability have come in from customers. Dr. Kathrin Schwirn from the Federal Environment Agency dealt with the recording of nanomaterials, risks and safety in her lecture Nanoroduct Registers Overview of the Situation in Europe. The lecture Nanomaterials in Cosmetics Regulations and Reality by Dr. med. Heike Flößer-Müller (BASF SE) dealt with the topic of assessing nanomaterials with regards to their hazard potential. The focus was on UV filters and their use in cosmetic formulations. In her speech Endocrine Disruptors An Overview, Anja Kehrer (Federal Environment Agency) predominantly dealt with the use and regulation of such substances in biocidal formulations and pesticides. The lecture by Achim Protzen (Joh. Vögele KG) entitled Essential Oils for Consumer Products: Simply Natural Naturally Simple dealt with the registration of natural fragrances and flavorings. Special attention was paid to allergens. Dr. Karsten Rüdiger Mewes (Henkel AG & Co. KG) presented a newly developed in vitro skin test in his presentation Three-dimensional Reconstructed Skin Models for Safety Assessments and Impact Studies in Consumer Products. contact Hans Jürgen Scholz SEPAWA e.v. Dorfstr Thannhausen Germany 34 sofwjournal /18

37 over attendees from over 60 countries more than 250 exhibitors over 100 high-grade lectures visit us #SEPAWA2018

38 formulations content Strawberry In Shower Peeling Butter B 75/293 Phase Ingredients INCI Supplier w/w % A B C LUMOROL K 1000 MIPA-Laureth Sulfate, Laureth-4, Cocamide DEA Z & S 15.0 Candelilla wax Candelilla cera Koster Keunen 10.0 Isofol 20 Octyldodecanol 4.0 Rapeseed oil Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil 4.0 PROTELAN ENS Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate Z & S 3.0 Jojoba oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 2.0 Antioxidant q.s. PROTELAN LS 9011 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Z & S 6.0 PROTELAN AGL 95 Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate Z & S 4.0 AMPHOTENSID B 5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Z & S 3.5 OXYPON 288 PEG-10 Olive Glycerides Z & S 3.0 Water Aqua (Water) up to Strawberry Exfoliator 1000 Fragaria Vesca Seed Lessonia 0.8 Perfume Parfum (Fragrance) 0.3 Preservative q.s. Production Process: 1. Combine A and heat up to approx. 75 C. 2. Combine B and heat up to approx. 75 C. 3. Add B to A and homogenize. 4. Cool down whilst stirring to approx. 35 C and add C. 5. Adjust the ph value to approx Appearance: white buttery cream with peeling beads Claim: soft and creamy exfoliation, skin smoothing while cleansing gently Mild and Gentle Aftershave Balsam Phase Trade Name INCI Name Supplier % w/w A B C Water Aqua 81.3 MinaSolve Hexam+ Pentylene Glycol (and) Water (and) Hexamidine Diisethionate Minasolve 2.0 Benecel K200M Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Ashland 0.5 TEGO Care PS Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate Evonik Octadecanol Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil Caesar & Loretz 5.0 Sweet Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Almond) Oil Caesar & Loretz 4.0 Squalane Squalane 2.0 DL-α-Tocopherol Tocopherol 0.2 Aqueous citric acid Aqua (and) Citric Acid qs Production Process: 1. Mix MinaSolve Hexam+ into water and start heating up to C. 2. Add Benecel to the hot water, slowly and under mixing. Mix for 10 min. 3. Weigh out ingredients from phase B into a separate beaker and heat up to C. 4. When both phases have reached C, add B to A under high shear (Ultra Turrax, 3 min / 8000 rpm). 5. Cool down and add Tocopherol when T < 40 C. Keep cooling down while mixing. 6. Adjust the ph to 5.3 ± 0.3. Cream-colored emulsion ph-value: 5.3 ± 0.3 Stable during 3 months at 5 C, 20 C, 42 C Passes challenge test, criteria A / ISO sofwjournal /18

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40 company news BASF Drives Sustainable Palm with Major Portfolio Switch r Landtag al Garden nglish Garden Nymphenburg ESA Hofbräuhaus utsches Museum Oktoberfest Stadium -Up Center Research Center Hellabrunn Zoo Technical Universi Ludwig Maximilian Universit Siemens trauss Airport Aeronautics and Space Research Cen Our Lady Maximilianeum Picture: Jörg Hackemann, fotolia.com September 2018 BioTech R Cosmetics: Science for Beauty and Lifestyle Beer Garden Bi D Max Planck Soc Amsterdam/The Netherlands, April 18, BASF shifts its Personal Care portfolio and will offer palm-based specialties for the cosmetics industry exclusively as certified sustainable. The move was announced at its 3rd Palm Dialog event during the in-cosmetics global exhibition. This is an important milestone for the cosmetics industry s progress towards sustainable palm and some of our customers have already made the step, said Xavier Susterac, Senior Vice President BASF Personal Care Europe. The decision to offer palm-based specialties only as certified in line with the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) Mass Balance standard is the latest move in BASF s initiative Time for Change. The company has made a commitment to switch about 330 palm-based products to Mass Balance standard in the course of 2018 globally. Mass Balance (MB) is one of the RSPO supply chain models that foster the physical flow of certified raw materials within the oleo-derivatives supply chain. By enhancing our IT processes, we are making it easier for our customers to change to MB ingredients, said Isabella Tonaco, who is responsible for Global Sustainability Palm Products at BASF. BASF Steps Up Palm Traceability BASF produces palm-based ingredients for cosmetic products, detergents and cleaning agents as well as foodstuffs. The majority of oil palm products used by BASF are based on palm kernel oil and its derivatives; to a lesser extent on palm oil. Palm cultivation is linked to deforestation, loss of biodiversity and social conflicts in the producing countries mainly Indonesia and Malaysia. BASF has therefore committed itself to source only RSPO-certified sustainable palm kernel oil by However, currently less than 20 percent of the global supply of palm-based oils is available as certified sustainable. In the difficult market environment of 2017, BASF purchased 153,000 metric tons of RSPO-certified palm kernel oil and made significant progress regarding traceability. In 2017, the company was able to trace almost 80 percent of its overall oil palm exposure of more than half a million metric tons. The certified sustainable oil is 100 percent traceable and originates from 204 oil mills in Indonesia and Malaysia (2016: 128), according to the second BASF Palm Progress Report. BASF Palm Dialog Discusses Industry s Impact On April 18, BASF hosted its third Palm Dialog on the industry s impact and progress towards sustainable palm during the in-cosmetics exhibition. This provided an opportunity for personal care ingredient suppliers and cosmetic manufacturers to discuss the latest trends and developments in the oleo-chemical industry and engage in dialog with experts. The BASF Palm Dialog is a crucial element in the company s commitment to fostering collaboration among stakeholders along the value chain. IFSCC 2018 is organised by the German Society of Cosmetic Chemists (DGK) and supported by SOFW (Verlag für chemische Industrie, H.Ziol kow sky GmbH), a specialised publishing and congress organising company. 38 sofwjournal /18

41 content company news Safety First 20 Years of Continuing Education for Safety Assessors Frankfurt am Main/Germany, April 16, The German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK) and the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW) celebrate the 20th anniversary with a scientific symposium with top-class speakers. How do safety assessors ensure that cosmetic products are safe in terms of health? How are the methods for the scientific assessment of contact allergies to be classified? And which alternative methods to animal experiments are available for the safety assessment of cosmetic products? These are only a few of the highly complex issues which were presented by renowned experts from Germany and abroad at the scientific symposium 20 years of education for safety assessors, to which IKW and DGK invited. More than 130 safety assessors accepted the offer to have an interdisciplinary, intense exchange on current issues in the field of safety assessment. In order for consumers within the EU to be able to rely on cosmetic products being safe, the work of the safety assessors is indispensable. They are the experts who are in charge of safeguarding that cosmetics comply with all demands imposed by legislation. A demanding mission which requires knowledge from different disciplines such as chemistry, toxicology, dermatology and cosmetics law. Regular continuing education which keeps the safety assessor always on the most recent state of science and legislation is a must. This work has been performed for 20 years for DGK and IKW with their offering of continuing education courses which are regularly attended by many safety assessors and are completed with a certificate. Birgit Huber, Head of the Competence Partner Beauty Care within IKW: We are pleased that the offer of the different course modules has been accepted so well by the safety assessors during the past 20 years, because continuing education in this field is very important. We will continue to work in future on the courses taking place on a very high level and representing a genuine support for the safety assessors. Speakers at the scientific symposium 20 years of education for safety assessors Front row (from left to right): Dr. Gerd Mildau (Chemisches und Veterinär-Untersuchungsamt, Karlsruhe), Dr. Andreas Butschke (Bundesamt für Verbraucherschutz und Lebensmittelsicherheit (BVL), Braunschweig), Prof. Dr. Johannes Geier (Informationsverbund Dermatologischer Kliniken (IVDK), Universitätsmedizin Göttingen), Prof. Dr. Vera Rogiers (In vitro Toxicology and Dermato-Cosmetology (IVTD), Vrije Universiteit Brussel), Dr. Hartmut Schmidt-Lewerkühne (Präsident DGK e. V., Thannhausen), Dr. Anke Meisner (Bundesministerium für Ernährung und Landwirtschaft (BMEL), Berlin), Britta Klebon (DGK e. V., Thannhausen), Dr. Rob Taalman (Cosmetics Europe, Brussels) Top row (from left to right): Prof. Dr. Gerhard Eisenbrand (Senior Research Professor (Retired) Food Chemistry & Toxicology Prof. Dr. Lothar Motischke (retired)), Birgit Huber (Deputy Managing Director of the IKW e. V., Frankfurt am Main), Dr. Annegret Blume (Bundesinstitut für Risikobewertung (BfR), Berlin), Prof. Dr. Walter Sterzel (Universität Duisburg-Essen), Dr. Bart A. Heldreth (Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), Washington, D.C.) IKW and DGK attach a particularly high value to the selection of speakers and ensure that experts from universities, public authorities and industry pass on their expert knowledge to the safety assessors. Concerning the offer of continuing education, it is, moreover, ensured that the contents are practice-oriented and imparted in an intuitively accessible manner. This helps the safety assessors at the implementation in their everyday work. And public authorities appreciate the continuing education events in the same way, since this allows them to judge the work of the safety assessors even better and engage in further education themselves. Another benefit of the events is the direct personal exchange with other colleagues and experts who can help in dealing with issues. For some time already, the continuing education programme has also been available in English. This means that safety assessors from outside Germany can likewise benefit from the continuing education offering of DGK and IKW. More information about the presentations at the symposium can be found here. The Gold Medal Award for Best Functional Ingredient Goes to RHEANCE One Hamburg/Germany, April 24, RHEANCE One is both natural and powerful a successful combination that won the Evonik team at Personal Care the gold medal award for Best Functional Ingredient at in-cosmetics global Presented for the first time in Amsterdam, this substance from the glycolipid family can be used for cleaning skin and hair gently yet effectively. This also makes it suitable for challenging skin types. RHEANCE One is produced via fermentation with sugar as the sole source of carbohydrates. Production does not require the addition of any tropical oils. This gives the product the advantage of being both natural and sustainable. Its positive application properties include a dense, creamy foam and a pleasant, natural feel on the skin. The glycolipid is completely biodegradable and offers extremely good environmental compatibility. The jury for the Innovation Zone Best Ingredients Awards at in-cosmetics global 2018 recognized that RHEANCE does an outstanding job of meeting the demands of innovative science and product properties that add value for manufacturers and end consumers. For Evonik, this is just the beginning: Now we re going to collaborate with our customers to work out the full scope of applications for RHEANCE One, said Dr. Tammo Boinowitz, the head of Evonik s Personal Care Business Line. We re already planning to expand this new technology platform. 05/ sofwjournal 39

42 company news content Get your Skin Ready for Life in The Light Barcelona/Spain, April One of the main reasons for the damage and premature aging of the skin is UV radiation, and it is impossible to escape from it. Coming from the sun, it is believed to cause up to 90% of skin aging signs including wrinkles, roughness, sagginess, skin thickening and dark spots. The sun also emits other types of harmful light, such as infrared and blue light, which penetrate deeper in the dermis and which regular sunscreens do not protect us from. Blue light can also be found indoors, since it is artificially produced by electronic devices such as computers, TVs, smartphones and tablets. The smartphone dependency, the selfie boom, and long workdays in front of computers can negatively impact our skin appearance. BERKEM Presented at in-cosmetics Global Protek its New Range for a Global Skin Protection Gardonne/France, March 23, Berkem has applied its plant extraction expertise and omic sciences in order to screen and develop active extracts from 3 plants; bilberry, oregano and quince. Thereafter, in vitro efficacy tests have allowed to showcase specific mechanism of action, to each active. Aqua Protek, oregano extract, acts on epidermal keratinocytes leading to a significantly dose-dependent increase (+49%**) of loricrine rate, following an inflammatory stress (TNF-α). By inducing the increase of loricrine, Aqua Protek protects the cornified envelope damaged due to an inflammatory stress. It helps to maintain impermeability and thus a state of skin hydration. Chrono Protek is a quince extract. Its action on dermal fibroblasts after an exposition to a UVA stress, shows a dose-dependent decrease (-75%***) in the quantity of MMP-1 produced by fibroblasts. Chrono Protek protects the collagen pool of the extracellular matrix. Skin becomes firm and re-plumps. Screen Protek, bilberry extract, has shown an action on the barrier function of epidermal keratinocytes. Indeed, after the addition of the extract with an inflammatory stress (IL-17), the protection rate of the barrier function shows a dose-dependent increase (+104%**). Screen Protek restores the skin barrier deteriorated due to an inflammatory stress and acts as a shield against exterior assaults. To use between 1 to 5% in formulation, those 3 extracts are recommended in protection care for skin and body. Visitors could test on booth A170 products containing GLOB- AL PROTEK actives; a BB cream, a lifting serum and an after-sun cream. To protect itself from light-induced damage, human skin adapts by developing biological mechanisms that increase its resistance to light, just like some animals can adapt to the environment through, for example, camouflage. Opsins, which are the main photoreceptors of the eye with a key role in light perception, have also been detected in human skin. They are believed to help the skin act as a sensory system for light, increasing its alertness and protection. Obtained through biotechnology from one of the most radiation-resistant microorganisms, LUMICEASE blue ingredient activates opsins on the skin and promotes adaptive responses which help prepare the skin for future exposure to light. It also protects and repairs the skin from solar and artificial blue light-induced damage, minimizing the main signs of photoaging. In vitro, in addition to activating opsins, considered as the eyes of the skin, the ingredient helped induce the skin adaptive responses against light damage. An increase of cell survival and improvement and protection of the extracellular matrix were also observed. A clinical test was performed on women who applied a cream with 2% LUMICEASE blue ingredient on half face and a placebo cream on the other half, during the summer and while being daily exposed to artificial blue light. The number of brown spots decreased by 11.7% as well as the amount of UV spots (not yet visible), that were reduced by 14.1%, suggesting a repair effect. A reduction of 21.5% and 13.2% in wrinkle volume and average roughness respectively was observed after 56 days of treatment. 0 days 56 days Reduction of UV spots In accordance with Lubrizol s sustainability policy, the isolation process of the microorganism was performed following sustainable practices, which did not involve harvesting high amounts of materials from nature. But at Lipotec we wanted to go a step further in our commitment with the environment by returning to nature what it had offered us, and that is why a percentage of sales of LUMICEASE blue ingredient will be donated to Paisatges Vius, an organization dedicated to the conservation of the aquatic ecosystem of the Pyrenean area in Northern Spain where the isolation of the microorganism took place. Lipotec s LUMICEASE blue ingredient prepares, protects and repairs the skin from solar and artificial blue light helping minimize the main signs of digital and photoaging so you can enjoy your life in the light sofwjournal /18

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44 company news content AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals Signs Co-operation Agreement with INEOS Nitriles to Expand Chelates Production Amsterdam/The Netherlands, April 20, AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals and INEOS Nitriles have signed a long-term co-operation agreement that will allow AkzoNobel to expand its production of biodegradable chelates, used in detergents and other industries, utilizing one of INEOS Nitriles chemical products. The move will strengthen AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals leadership position in the chelates business, supporting customer growth as well as improving both companies sustainability profile. The Gold Medal Award for Best Functional Ingredient Goes to RHEANCE One Hamburg/Germany, April 24, RHEANCE One is both natural and powerful a successful combination that won the Evonik team at Personal Care the gold medal award for Best Functional Ingredient at in-cosmetics global Presented for the first time in Amsterdam, this substance from the glycolipid family can be used for cleaning skin and hair gently yet effectively. This also makes it suitable for challenging skin types. RHEANCE One is produced via fermentation with sugar as the sole source of carbohydrates. Production does not require the addition of any tropical oils. This gives the product the advantage of being both natural and sustainable. Its positive application properties include a dense, creamy foam and a pleasant, natural feel on the skin. The glycolipid is completely biodegradable and offers extremely good environmental compatibility. The jury for the Innovation Zone Best Ingredients Awards at in-cosmetics global 2018 recognized that RHEANCE does an outstanding job of meeting the demands of innovative science and product properties that add value for manufacturers and end consumers. For Evonik, this is just the beginning: Now we re going to collaborate with our customers to work out the full scope of applications for RHEANCE One, said Dr. Tammo Boinowitz, the head of Evonik s Personal Care Business Line. We re already planning to expand this new technology platform. AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals will invest in production facilities at INEOS s site at Cologne, Germany. INEOS Nitriles is the world s largest producer of acrylonitrile, a key chemical building block used ultimately in the automotive, home appliance, garment, carbon fiber and water purification industries. With this partnership, AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals will be able to expand its chelates production in Europe. Construction of the new facilities at Cologne will start later this year and completion is due in 2020; INEOS will operate these new plants. This long-term co-operation is a strategic step to secure a solid asset base for high-quality chelates in Europe and will allow us to support growing demand from our customers, said Peter Kuijpers, General Manager Chelates and Micronutrients at AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals. Demand for high-quality chelates has been increasing strongly in the last couple of years and in particular following the European ban on phosphates in consumer automatic dishwasher detergents due to environmental concerns. The sustainability profile of the chelates business will improve by making use of a raw material with a lower carbon footprint, by switching heat and electricity to more environmentally friendly energy sources or renewable electricity, and by decreasing the transport distance of our products, Kuijpers says. Gordon Adams, Business Director of INEOS Nitriles commented: Today s announcement builds on the existing supply relationship with AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals at our Lima, US facility. It continues the strategy of attracting petrochemical integration opportunities to the Cologne site and, importantly, our chemicals will be used to enable a significant industry sustainability improvement, which we are especially proud of. Werner Fuhrmann, CEO of AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals added: This announcement reflects three key aspects of our strategy - investing to grow with our customers, working closely in partnerships and improving our sustainability profile. It s the latest in a series of projects we have announced to strengthen our leadership position in key markets and deliver sustainable solutions. Paul Overment, CEO of INEOS Nitriles noted: We have a strong existing supply relationship with AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals which we are looking forward to developing even further in the future sofwjournal /18

45 content company news Expect the Unexpected Have Fun With Your Beauty Routine! Barcelona/Spain, April, Representing over a quarter of the global population, Millennials are the most influential generation nowadays and the most difficult to define due to their multiple contradictions. They live their lives online but love real-life interactions. They are democratic and inclusive, but ask for exclusivity for themselves. Focused on progress, but have a deep sense of nostalgia. Considering their personal care, Millennials want to maintain a perfect and protected skin, and look for instant results and fun experiences. In addition to covering specific needs, such as delaying the appearance of the first wrinkles and shielding their skin from the harmful effects of pollution, they also value appealing campaigns and products that offer them something extra, a plus. Lubrizol has created a set of seven formulations intended to satisfy this demanding generation. EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED offers a fun and surprising collection of textures that takes care of Millennials skin and hair with efficient active ingredients. BE FUN OR BE GONE Experience heat in a frozen cream with Acai Berry Smoothie Facial Lotion. The application of this colorful smoothie texture, fresh out of the freezer, will surprise your skin with a cold and energizing feel that will turn quickly into a warm soft moisturizing lotion. A perfect breakfast of superfood extracts for a healthy and radiant look. BEGINNING OR END At first, Facial Gel-to-Oil Mask feels like a rich gel, but after only a few seconds of application, it transforms into an oily film that deeply nourishes the skin. It can be applied at the beginning or end of the day to provide protection and anti-wrinkle prevention to the skin. PURE RICHNESS Starting as a clear gel, the initial fresh feel of Dewy Hydrating Clear Facial Cream gives an impression of purity. During the application process the gel turns into the comfort and richness of a cream. The skin becomes nourished The perfect companion for your travels that will help you control your environmental footprint. GENDERLESS, NOT STYLELESS Made for men or women? No need to decide! The Frosty Bouncy Hair Wax has been designed to meet the needs of all genders and takes on the role of many textures, offering a rich, creamy feel to make styling hair simple. Visual appearance of a wax, with the bounce of a gel. At Lubrizol Skin Essentials, we offer ample expertise that makes it possible to deliver unique, innovative and more natural solutions to the personal care market. Give Millennials what they would not expect: funny experiences and high performance personal care solutions. Jennifer Clancy Joins Lonza as Head of Global Marketing South Plainfield/NJ (USA), April 17, Jennifer Clancy has joined Lonza s Consumer Product Ingredients (CPI) business as Senior Director of Global Marketing. She will be introduced to customers at in-cosmetics Global 2018 at the Lonza Stand E80, from April in Amsterdam. (NL). Based in Allendale, NJ (USA), Clancy is responsible for strategic development and execution of all marketing initiatives to support lead generation, growth, and value creation within the CPI business. She oversees the planning and execution of initiatives across marketing and competitive intelligence, consumer and trade research, brand management, new product launches, and with a healthy glow with a non-sticky after-feel. VIRTUAL REALITY With this smooth, pearlized Jennifer Clancy Head of Global Marketing marketing communications, event management, web content, sales force support and customer engagement. Clancy is a member of the CPI Leadership Team. Radiant Tone-up Facial Cream the skin will light up instantly for a hydrated and luminous look while remaining protected from photo-aging. Don t worry about your complexion, just embrace your real and virtual lives intensely. SEIZE THE MOMENT Forget everything and bring back your childhood memories into the bathroom with this In-shower Bubble Gum Body Cream. Despite its fanciful bubble gum texture, this body cream offers serious and reliable nourishment, leaving the skin smooth and supple. ON-THE-GO This Sprayable Cleansing Gel for Hair and Body displays the contrasting sensory of a fresh, non-sticky Clancy comes t o Lonza with more than 20 years of experience in the consumer products industry. Throughout her career she has held key marketing and brand management roles at companies including Estée Lauder, Elizabeth Arden and International Flavors & Fragrances. Most recently, Clancy was Global Director, Creative Marketing Studio at Firmenich, Inc. A graduate of Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, Clancy is an active member of Cosmetic Executive Women and Associate Board Member of the Fragrance Foundation and The Fashion Group International. and slimy water gel with the cleansing efficacy of a soap. 05/ sofwjournal 43

46 index of advertisers content imprint BASF SE Cover 2 Schülke & Mayr GmbH 3 Organ BYK-Chemie GmbH 11 Chemspec Europe, Koelnmesse, Cologne, Germany June Clariant International Ltd. 9 DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH 19 Evonik Industries AG 5 GRAEF 37, 41 proderm GmbH 21 Sabinsa Europe GmbH 25 TH.C.Tromm Cover 3 Wacker Chemie AG 17 Publisher s Ads HPCI Congress 4 HPCI CEE, Warsaw, Poland September Cover 4 IFSCC Congress, Munich, Germany September SEPAWA Congress 2018, Berlin, Germany October SOFW Media 13, 26, Cover 3 SEPAWA (Vereinigung der Seifen-, Parfüm- und Waschmittelfachleute e.v.) Editor in Chief Robert Fischer robert.fischer@sofw.com Editorial Content Monika Sugumar monika.sugumar@sofw.com Advertising Siegfried Fischer advertising@sofw.com Subscriptions Mihaela Saller subscription@sofw.com Publisher Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH Print Kessler Druck+Medien GmbH & Co. KG Michael-Schäffer-Straße Bobingen Germany Issues 10 issues per year + scheduled special issues Address Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH Dorfstr Thannhausen Germany Phone Fax vci@sofw.com Internet Advertisement Rates, See Media Info > SOFW Journal > Mediadata Subscription, Prices Print & Online Subscription > EUR (+ postage, + VAT where applicable) Online Subscription > EUR (+ VAT where applicable) App Store & Play Store requires free SOFW Journal App) > EUR (single issue EUR 19.99) Price/Issue Germany: EUR plus postage Other Countries: EUR plus postage Cover alphaspirit/shutterstock.com All books and articles published by Verlag für chem. Industrie have been diligently prepared. Yet the publisher or author can not be made liable for any technical inaccuracies and/or printing mistakes. The information given, does not necessarily reflect the position of the publisher. Verlag für chemische Industrie GmbH undertakes all efforts to publish accurate information. Still this publication may contain technical errors or typographic mistakes. All articles written by authors reflect their views and do not necessarily harmonize with the publisher s. SOFW Journal assumes no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors in this publication. 144 th Volume: SOFW Journal Soaps, Oils, Fats, Waxes 91 st Volume: Containing Sections for Cosmetics, Aerosols and Perfumery 114 th Volume: International Journal for Applied Science in the Chemical Industry 44

47 powered by More Than Just Another Online Magazine. powered by Foto: katemlk/fotolia.com Wir geben Ihrem Produkt genau das richtige Format Um eine globale Zielgruppe anzusprechen, wird das SOFW Journal derzeit als deutsche und englische Version herausgegeben. Die deutsche und englische Ausgabe erscheint zusätzlich mit einer chinesischen Version mit umfangreichem Archiv online. Zudem ist die englische Version als App für ios und Android verfügbar. Zusammen mit wissenschaftlichen und praxisorientierten Fachbeiträgen aus der Kosmetik-, Körperpflege-, Wasch- und Reinigungsmittel-Industrie besitzt das SOFW Journal genau das richtige Format für Ihre Werbung. Anzeigenservice Siegfried Fischer Tel: Fax: Year Subscription to SOFW Journal App incl. 10 issues per year and access to the archive for only EUR (worth EUR) sponsored by Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH Dorfstrasse 40, Thannhausen, Germany Special offer. The subscription will not be renewed automatically. App Store or Google play may remind you to renew your subscription towards the end of the subscription period. Subscription renewal policies subject to change by Google and Apple. CArniCowAChS Pflanzwachsraffinate CErATrom wachse PolyCErin Esterwachse TECErowAChS microkristalline wachse TECE -ozokerit Ceresine CErAThEn Polymerwachse Rohstoffe und Intermediates für alle Anwendungsgebiete Standardisierte Einstellungen entspr. DAB/BGA Produkte nach individuellem Anforderungsprofil Entwicklungen und Problemlösungen Feuerstraße 7-17, D Köln / Cologne Tel , Fax info@wax-tromm.de

48 WARSAW POLAND INGREDIENTS PER TS PERSONAL CARE HOME CARE RAW RE RAW MATERIALS ERIALS COSMETICS ETICS SPECIALTIES ES FORMULATIONS TIONS EXHIBITION TION CONFERENCE POLAND WARSAW EXPO XXI CENTRE INGREDIENTS PER TS PERSONAL CARE HOME CARE RAW RE RAW MATERIALS ERIALS COSMETICS ETICS SPECIALTIES ES FORMULATIONS TIONS EXHIBITION TION CONFERENCE POLAND WARSAW EXPO XXI CENTRE INGREDIENTS PER TS PERSONAL CARE HOME CARE RAW RE RAW MATERIALS ERIALS COSMETICS ETICS SPECIALTIES ES FORMULATIONS TIONS EXHIBITION TION CONFERENCE POLAND WARSAW EXPO XXI CENTRE INGREDIENTS PER TS PERSONAL CARE HOME CARE RAW RE RAW MATERIALS ERIALS COSMETICS in conjunction with: Photo credits: Subbotina Anna (Fotolia.com) organized by: WARSAW POLAND EXPO XXI CENTRE WARSAW POLAND EXPO XXI CENTRE WARSAW, POLAND EXPO XXI CENTRE WARSAW POLAND EXPO XXI CENTRE