Jarchem Industries, Inc. A portfolio of Shea Butters, Oils, & Derivatives for cosmetic formulations
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1 Jarchem Industries, Inc. A portfolio of Shea Butters, Oils, & Derivatives for cosmetic formulations An ISO 9001:2008 Company 414 Wilson Avenue Newark, NJ Phone: Fax: info@jarchem.com
2 JARPLEX Shea Butter Portfolio: Building Better Butters For complex cosmetic formulations Jarchem Industries, Inc., supplier of innovative and specialty ingredients for the cosmetics and personal care industry, is proud to offer the broadest selection of exotic butter products for all your formulation needs, made with the highest-quality raw materials. Our Jarplex Shea butter portfolio features a wide variety of Shea butter products with distinctive properties that lend themselves to a wide range of cosmetic and personal care applications. The Jarplex Shea butter portfolio offers the following benefits: responds to consumer s desire for exotic new natural emollients, strong functionality and performance due to high amounts of unsaponifiables and other beneficial natural components, and increased temperature stability and shelf life in the final product. Jarchem is continually Building Better Butters to help you solve your complex formulation needs. CHOOSING THE BEST BUTTER The breadth of Jarchem s exotic butter portfolio makes it easy for producers of cosmetic and personal care products to find the right formulation for their desired application. Jarplex exotic butters exhibit a range of melting characteristics that have an impact on skin feel and absorption characteristics of the end product. There are a number of ways to define melting characteristics of butters and fats, including the slip melting point (SMP), which identifies a point of transition from solid to liquid corresponding to roughly 20-25% solid, and the mettler drop point (MDP), which pinpoints the temperature of complete melting (0% solid). Although these methods convey useful information about a particular butter s formulation, a melting profile provides a better picture of how a butter reacts to a range of conditions, enabling identification of the performance characteristics that best suit the needs of specific applications. The chart on the right illustrates the melting profiles of two Jarplex Shea butter products. % Solid 70 % 60 % 50 % 40 % 30 % 20 % 10 % 0 % SB15 JARPLEX Butter Melt Profiles 0 C 5 C 10 C 15 C 20 C 25 C 30 C 35 C 40 C 45 C Temperature SB
3 JARPLEX SHEA BUTTERS Shea Butter Benefits Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) is a vegetable fat extracted from the fruit of the Shea tree (Butyrospermum parkii), which grows in sub-saharan Africa. Shea butter has been used there for hundreds of years as an emollient and as an agent in skin healing and protection. The cosmetic and personal care industries have long recognized Shea butter as an excellent emollient for personal care applications. Recently, a number of studies have indicated that substances contained in the unsaponifiable component of Shea butter convey additional dermatological benefits. Shea butters typically contain 6%-8% unsaponifiable fraction, of which there is about 60%-70% triterpene alcohols (alpha-amyrin, beta-amyrin, lupeol, and butyrospermol). There is also approximately ppm tocopherols. The triterpene alcohols lupeol and alpha- and beta-amyrin have been shown to have a positive effect on collagen regeneration and keratinocyte proliferation in skin as well as measurable anti-inflammatory effects, while the cinnamic acid esters of the triterpene alcohols show strong absorbance of UV radiation at critical wavelengths. 1-3 Shea Butter Applications The unique combination of triglycerides and minor lipid components found in Jarplex Shea butters, along with their high quality and superior formulating properties, make our products an ideal choice for functional cosmetic applications. Furthermore, the Jarplex Shea butters rich content of bioactive triterpene esters, such as lupeol and amyrin cinnamate, provides beneficial effects including anti-irritancy and anti-inflammatory properties and enhanced UV-B protection. Currently, Jarplex Shea butters find application in a wide range of cosmetic and skin care formulations. Lipsticks and lip balms, body butters and creams, massage oils, shampoos and hair conditioners, body cleansers, sunscreens, and face and body lotions are among the products that include Shea butter as an active ingredient. 2
4 The Jarplex Shea Portfolio Jarplex Shea butters feature a broad spectrum of products with characteristics suitable for diverse applications. Jarplex SB10 Shea Butter Oil Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil This easy-to-formulate liquid Shea butter has a melt point of 0 C to 10 C. Jarplex SB10 is ideal for spray formulations and stays completely liquid in cold temperatures. It is an excellent moisturizer for spray-on sunscreens. Jarplex SB10 can be used from 1% to 100%. Jarplex SB12 Shea Butter Extract Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract Jarplex SB12 Shea extract is composed of fully refined vegetable oil extracted from the fruit of the Shea tree (Butyrospermum parkii). Jarplex SB12 maintains the benefits found in other Shea products through the presence of unsaponifiable matter. These benefits include skin protection against weather, sun, and aging and reduction of superficial irritations such as dry/chapped skin, dermatitis and dermatoses, eczema, and sunburn. Jarplex SB12 has antiinflammatory applications because of its natural phytosterol content. It also offers a very light, dry skin feel. Jarplex SB12 is easy to work with based on its superior freeze point properties versus other Shea butter products and stays mostly liquid in cold temperatures. Jarplex SB15 Shea Butter Liquid Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter An easy-to-formulate liquid Shea butter with a melt point of 15 C, Jarplex SB15 is ideal for cream lotions that require a light feel, and for use as a viscosity adjuster for body butters. It makes an excellent moisturizer for massage oils. Jarplex SB15 can be used from 1% to 100%. Jarplex Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter A creamy refined Shea butter with superior crystallization properties, Jarplex is especially well suited for use in formulations with higher (>20%) concentrations of Shea butter. Jarplex ensures more reliable visual and skin feel aesthetics over a wide range of conditions. It is also excellent for structure-sensitive stick and pencil formulations. Jarplex contains all the natural benefits of Shea butter. Where slow crystallization can cause problems, such as graininess and white spots known as bloom, Jarplex crystallizes and stabilizes quickly for a uniform, consistent texture, even in products with a high vegetable lipid content, such as body butters and balms. 3
5 Jarplex SB45 Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Jarplex SB45 offers unique and valuable physical properties. This product has a melt point of 45 C but is soft at room temperature. Designed to provide attractive skin feel for super-high Shea content (>75%) formulations, Jarplex SB45 provides great flexibility in maximizing Shea loading and functional skin benefits, while providing a softer feel. Jarplex SB60 Shea Butter Powder Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter and Silica Our new powder form of Shea butter consists of 100% Shea butter in a SiO2 carrier. Jarplex SB60 is an easy-to-use powder formulation that is ideal for color cosmetics, eye shadows, and other applications. Jarplex SB70 Shea Wax Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Wax A high melt point Shea wax, great for use in hair, stick, and dermatology applications. It gives structural stability while delivering the natural Shea functionality. Jarplex SB-OE Shea Butter Octyldodecyl Esters A nature based, moisturizing ester with improved oxidative stability compared to Shea butter alone. It is light, fast spreading, and penetrating with a less waxy feel without being tacky. It is great for use in protective products, i.e. winter products or cold weather applications. Jarplex SB-WD Shea Butter Glycerides Jarplex SB-WD is our Shea butter for water-based systems. Jarplex SB-WD improves viscosity and mitigates the risk of irritation caused by basic surfactants. It can be used from 1% to 5% in all water-based formulations. Alone in water at 20 25%, Jarplex SB-WD produces a luxurious lotion. Jarplex SB-WD10 Water and Shea Butter Glycerides A biodegradable and green natural butter dispersion in water. It is a 10% dispersion of Shea Butter Glycerides without surfactants or ethoxylation and can be further diluted in water. It provides a soothing, rapidly absorbing, non-greasy feeling to skin and natural conditioning on hair. Jarplex SB-WS50 PEG-50 Shea Butter Jarplex SB-WS50 is an ethoxylated mono, diglyceride of Shea butter taken from the nut of the Shea tree. It is a water dispersible, non-ionic surfactant which, when used as an emulsifier, has an HLB of It can be employed in skin care formulations including body washes, shampoos and conditioners, creams, lotions, and ointments. 4
6 90 JARPLEX Shea Butter Melt Profiles % Solid C 5 C 10 C 15 C 20 C 25 C 30 C 35 C 40 C 45 C 50 C 55 C Temperature SB10 SB15 SB30 SB45 SB-WD Composition of Shea Butter Solid triglycerides Liquid triglycerides Triterpene esters Other unsaponifiables 5
7 INNOVATIONS IN EXOTIC BUTTERS Jarchem Industries, Inc. has been supplying high-quality ingredients for the production of cosmetic products since We are proud of our reputation as a dependable supplier of traditional emollients, natural products, and other ingredients, and we continue to develop new offerings for our cosmetic and personal care customers. Jarchem offers a line of socially and environmentally responsible ingredients from the Amazonian rainforest. Our Amazonian Jarxotic products include Açai oil, Brazil nut oil, Cocoa butter, Copaiba oil, Cupuaçu butter, Illipe butter, Kahai oil, Mango butter, Murumuru butter, Passion Fruit oil, and Tucumã butter. Jarchem also sports a line of clay Naturescrubs, the newest addition being Jarxotic GC-NS, French Green Clay. To keep up-to-date of Jarchem s new product offerings, visit our website ( New products are first detailed in our Technical Update ings. You can sign up to receive these valuable announcements on our website. We also offer more detailed data on all our products (including product specifications) through our members-only JarLink membership. Visit to register. % Solid 100 % 90 % 80 % 70 % 60 % 50 % 40 % 30 % 20 % 10 % 0 % JARXOTIC Exotic Butter Melt Profiles MB35 IB30 CB30 CG 0 C 5 C 10 C 15 C 20 C 25 C 30 C 35 C 40 C 45 C 50 C 55 C Temperature CB30 CG IB30 MB35 6
8 Call your Jarchem representative to find out how Jarchem Industries is... An ISO 9001:2008 Company 414 Wilson Avenue Newark, NJ Phone: Fax: REFERENCES: 1. Fernández MA, de las Heras B,García MD, Sáenz MT, Villar A. New insights into the mechanism of action of the anti-inflammatory triterpene lupeol. J Pharm Pharmacol 2001;53(11): Pillai S, Oresajo C, Haward J. Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation a review. Int J Cosmet Sci 2005;27(1): Lamaud ME, Miskulin M, Robert AM, Wepierre J. [Biochemical modifications of connective tissue induced by the non-saponifiables of avocado and soya-bean oils administered percutaneously in the "Hairless" rat]. Pathol Biol (Paris) 1978 May-Jun;26(5):
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