CERAMIDA SH 1% INCI NAME CAS N EINECS (I)/ELINCS (L)

Transcription

1 CERAMIDA SH 1% DESCRIPTION Vegetable glycosil ceramide and ethoxylated fatty esters. COMPOSITION INCI NAME CAS N EINECS (I)/ELINCS (L) PEG-75 Lanolin Polymer exempt Glycol Distearate Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil Glucosyl Ceramide Tocopherol INTRODUCTION Ceramides in hair Human hair belongs to a group of protein called α-keratin. Hair stem divides into four distinct main strutures: cuticles, cortex, the cell membrane complex (CMC) and medulla. 1,2 The cuticle consists of proteinaceous material, showing the function of exercising chemical resistance as well as regulate the amount of water in the structure, which allows you to maintain their physical properties. 1,2 The cortex is formed by cells filled with keratin, with na organization that gives its fibers support properties. 1,2 The cell membrane complex, responsible for natural moisture of hair, making it shiny, transparent and naturally hydrated, consists of cell membranes and adhesive material that connects the cuticles and cortical cells, showing chemical composition rich in proteins, polysaccharides and some types of lipids, like ceramides. The CMC s structural lipids associated with a proteinaceous matrix not only ensure cohesion between the components of the hair but also constitute a barrier against certain chemical and physical processing. They give the hair a certain impermeability, forming a film on the hair and lubricating it, thus preserving its flexibility and shine. Ceramides, belonging to the sphingolipids group, whose main structure is sphingosine, constitute a class of polar lipids present in the structural cell membrane complex capable of ensuring the adhesion between cuticles and cortical cells. 1,2 Ceramida SH 1% Pág. 1/5

2 of hair. 1,2 The medulla has no defined function, suspecting its involvement with the properties Ceramides in skin The human skin can be divided into three main layers, being the epidermis and the dermis the two most important, besides the adipose connective tissue. The epidermis is the outermost layer and is composed of epithelium and divided into multiple sub-layers. (Figure 1). 3 The main function of the epidermis is to protect the skin from external aggressions. One of the main components of the epidermis are lipids, which can be found in the form of triglycerides, free, ceramides and. These lipids are distributed and arranged strategically to meet effectively the cutaneous barrier function (Figure 1). 3 Ceramides are the most important and majority lipid of the epidermis. Ceramide molecules are heavily involved in the formation of lipid bilayer that surround the corneocytes of stratum corneum. There are at least 6 different types of molecular structure which vary in chain length and by radical. 3 Ceramides are synthesized in the granular layer and stored in structures called lamelar bodies, within which are found in more polar chains (glucosyl ceramides). The unloading of the cells in the extracellular medium of the stratum corneum, the glucosyl ceramides suffer biochemical changes resulting in ceramides, which are less polar molecules. 3 Ceramida SH 1% Pág. 2/5

3 Hydrolipidic Film Stratum Corneum (85-90% lipids) Stratum Lucidum (40% lipids) Stratum Granulosum (30% lipids) simple ceramides glycosylceramide sphingomieline hydrocarbons phospholipids simple ceramides Stratum Spinosum Stratum Germinativum (basal layer) glycosylceramide sphingomieline phospholipids Figura 1: Figura 1: Epidermis COMPONENTS DESCRIPTION 1. Glucosyl Ceramide The A Glycosil Ceramide is the only glycosphingolipid common to plants, fungi and animals. It is considered the main glycosphingolipid found in plants, and therefore, is abundant in nature. 4,5 The Glycosil Ceramide belongs to a class from a sphingolipids family that presents high affinity to water. Due to this characteristic, it is found in the epidermis lower layers, basal layer, where the hydration level is higher. For this reason, its main characteristic is to keep water binded to the sugar chains (glyco or gluco), promoting a special hydration activity. Ceramida SH 1% Pág. 3/5

4 POR QUE USAR? Propriedades Cosméticas: Figura 2: Cerebrosídeo Vegetal The vegetal ceramides, also called vegetal cerebrosides (Figure 2), present in Ceramida SH 1% are originated from the extraction of soybean and sunflower seeds and solubilized in a lipid base, which is compatible with skin and hair care formulations. FATTY ACID CEREBROSIDE Figure 2: Vegetal ceramide WHY USE IT? Hair care formulations: Restructuring activity in the intercuticular cement, acting like a cohesion agent among keratin cuticles from hair and scalp, decreasing desquamation; Restructuring hair damages caused by chemical treatments or detergents, promoting the adjustment of keratin scales and also the decrease of dull appearance and split-ends; Improving hair index of reflection and increasing hair shine. Skin care formulations: Reposition of essential lipids of stratum corneum; Maintenance and/or repair of skin barrier, normally damaged by noxious extrinsic factors. APPLICATION AND USAGE INDICATION Hair care products (shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, etc.); Skin care products (gel, creams, gel-creams, etc.) SUGGESTED CONCENTRATION From 1 to 5 %w/w in shampoos, previously dissolved in diethanolamide from coconut in the formulation or in the surfactant formulation; From 1 to 5%w/w in skin care formulations. Ceramida SH 1% Pág. 4/5

5 BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES 1 Sant Anna, A. L. S. (2000) Estudo da deposição de Ceramidas sobre a fibra capilar para o combate a danos cuticulares (Master Degree Dissertation, Universidade Estadual de Campinas). 2 França, S. A. D. (2014) Caracterização dos cabelos submetidos ao alisamento / relaxamento e posterior tingimento (Doctorate Dissertation, Universidade de São Paulo). 3 Teixeira, A. P. (2013) Avaliação in vivo da pele humana facial por Espectroscopia Raman Confocal: Ação de Cosmético (Master Degree Dissertation, Universidade do Vale do Paraíba). 4 Sullards, M.C., D.V. Lynch, A.H. Merrill Jr, and J. Adams. (2000). Structure determination of soybean and wheat glucosylceramides by tandem mass spectrometry. J Mass Spectrom 35: Document Written by Reviewed by: Approved by: Controlled by: R&D Dept. MKT Dept. R&D Director QA Dept. The information contained in this Literature is provided in good faith. We recommend the test of our products in order to verify the convenience of their use before adopting them at industrial level. Such information shall not be understood as concession or permission to use the methods or compositions covered by any patent. This material reproduction is prohibited without the CHEMYUNION QUÍMICA LTDA authorization. Ceramida SH 1% Pág. 5/5