Novel and Naturally Derived Water Resistance Agents for Sunscreens. Florida SCC Sunscreen Symposium September 12, 2009
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1 Novel and Naturally Derived Water Resistance Agents for Sunscreens Florida SCC Sunscreen Symposium September 12, 2009
2 » Marketing Naturally derived» Functionality Benefits Sunscreen solubilizer Stability improvement Water resistance» Cost effective
3 » Marketing Naturally derived» Functionality Benefits Sunscreen solubilizer Stability improvement Water resistance» Cost effective
4 Sourcing» Derived from pine rosin Wood rosin from pine stumps» Domestic Raw Material Source
5 Abietic Acid Natural Building Block
6 Esterification and Hydrogenation» Esterified using an alcohol/acid reaction (The type of ester added determines the softening point ) Methanol for liquid version Glycerol for solid version» Hydrogenation gives oxidative and thermal stability thereby increasing shelf life
7 Abietic Acid Natural Building Block
8 Esterification and Hydrogenation» Esterified using an alcohol/acid reaction (The type of ester added determines the softening point ) Methanol for liquid version Glycerol for solid version» Hydrogenation gives oxidative and thermal stability thereby increasing shelf life
9 Abietic Acid Natural Building Block
10 Forms Liquid Typical Properties INCI Name: Hydrogenated Methyl Abietate (HMA) Trade Name: Meristant 101L Viscosity: Z to Z4 (Gardner-Holdt) [2,200 7,000 centipoise] Color (Gardner): 4 Acid Number: 6 Saponification Number: 155 Refractive Index: 20 C [Partially Hydrogenated]
11 Forms Solid Typical Properties INCI Name (proposed): Hydrogenated Glyceryl Abietate (HGA) Trade Name: Meristant 101S Softening Point: C Acid Number: 6 mg KOH/g Color (Gardner): 3 Specific Gravity (25 C): 1.07 [Highly Hydrogenated]
12 Registration» Meristant 101L in the process of being registered with Ecocert» Meristant 101S certified by Ecocert» COSMOS standards in Europe.
13 » Marketing Naturally derived» Functionality Benefits Sunscreen solubilizer Stability improvement Water resistance» Cost effective
14 Characteristics» Hydrophobic/Water Insoluble» Light amber to clear in color» Low/neutral odor» Thermoplastic» Broad FDA approval» Allergen tested» Broad Compatibility/Solubility» Low Volatility» Naturally derived
15 Application to Sunscreens» Use a simple formula for a comparative study» Ganex V-220 selected as the industry standard for sunscreen water resistance agent» A sunscreen formulation with an expected SPF result of ~15 was selected
16 Formulation Water Pemulen TR-2 Avobenzone Octocrylene Octisalate Oxybenzone Waterproofing Agent Spectrasolv DMDA Triethanolamine Preservative Material %
17 » Marketing Naturally derived» Functionality Benefits Sunscreen solubilizer Stability improvement Water resistance» Cost effective
18 Observations» Solubility issues for the Oxybenzone and Avobenzone with the Ganex V-220 formula (Spectrasolv DMDA added to insure solubility)» No solubility issues with the Meristant 101L and Meristant 101S
19 Solubility Levels Only Meristant 101L evaluated Oxybenzone = 20% Avobenzone = 12%
20 Physical Properties Ganex V-220 Meristant 101L Viscosity 8,200cps 3,200cps ph Meristant 101S 2,600cps 7.04
21 » Marketing Naturally derived» Functionality Benefits Sunscreen solubilizer Stability improvement Water resistance» Cost effective
22 Stability All formulas stability tested prior to SPF testing: 2 50 C 5 freeze/thaw cycles
23 Stability Observations» All formulas had stable ph and viscosity values for all test conditions. There was no physical settling or syneresis» Ganex V-220 became more gel-like under extreme conditions (room temperature had no changes)
24 Long Term Stability Observations» Continued to evaluate room temperature samples for one year» The Meristant formulas showed no significant changes in appearance, viscosity or ph» The Ganex V-220 formed a firm gel with a clear liquid flowing around the edges
25 Ganex V-220 (Benchmark) 12 RT 40X
26 Ganex V-220 (Benchmark) 12 RT 100X
27 Meristant 101L (liquid version) 12 RT 40X
28 Meristant 101L (liquid version) 12 RT 100X
29 Meristant 101S (solid version) 12 RT 40X
30 Meristant 101S (solid version) 12 RT 100X
31 » Marketing Naturally derived» Functionality Benefits Sunscreen solubilizer Stability improvement Water resistance» Cost effective
32 Waterproof Testing» Followed the 80 minute water resistant test method as defined by the US Sunscreen Monograph» Five subjects tested
33 SPF Testing Results Label SPF Ganex V-220 Meristant 101L Meristant 101S
34 Conclusions Benchmark Cost Effective Naturally Derived Formulation Stability Multifunctional Liquid Meristant 101L Meristant 101S
35 Ongoing and Future Studies» Different base emulsifying systems» Inorganic sunscreens» Photostability improvements» Optimizing use levels» Uses in other personal care formulations
36 Thank you for your interest
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