Ciba Specialty Chemicals. Ciba TINODERM. Nanotopes Ultra Small Carriers. Personal Care

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1 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Ciba TINODERM Nanotopes Ultra Small Carriers Personal Care

2 Nanotopes TINODERM A TINODERM E TINODERM P

3 Table of Contents Introduction 4 Description 5 3-Dimensional Structure 5 Membrane Architecture 6 Nanotopes versus Liposomes 7 Stability 8 Surfactant Stability of Nanotopes Particle size and skin penetration 10 Electron Micrograph of Nanotopes and Conventional Liposomes 12 Efficacy Study 14 D-Panthenol delivered by Nanotopes Application 16 Formulation Guidelines 16 Day Cream with TINODERM E 16 Electron Micrograph of Cream Formulation 17 Features and Benefits of Nanotopes 18 TINODERM Product Range 19 TINODERM A: Nanotopes with Vitamin A palmitate TINODERM E: Nanotopes with Vitamin E acetate TINODERM P: Nanotopes with D-Panthenol TINODERM Nanotopes 3

4 Introduction Cosmetic actives for skin care must penetrate into the skin in order to utilize their full potential. Only few cosmetic actives, such as sun filters are effective on the skin surface. When such actives remain only on the surface, they do not enter the skin in a sufficient concentration to create the desired effect. Hence, specific carrier systems have been developed to transport cosmetic actives into the skin. These systems ease the transport of actives through the skin barrier and, furthermore, deliver these actives in a sufficient concentration to the site of interaction. The barrier protecting the lower skin layers from penetrating molecules is the horny layer (or stratum corneum). It consists of flat corneocytes, i. e. cornified keratinocytes, and inter-corneocyte lipid layers. The structure of the horny layer is often described as the «brick and mortar model». Cosmetic actives need to be transported through the inter-corneocyte lipids; the inter-corneocyte pores with a width of about 50 nm. This small width effectively limits choices of a carrier system. TINODERM Nanotopes are carriers which have been developed with a particle size smaller than the inter-corneocyte (50 nm). Such nano-sized carriers allow an even distribution of actives on the skin surface. They generate the highest possible number of active hits and provide fast and efficient transport through the skin barrier. TINODERM Nanotopes are characterized by their specific unilamellar membrane consisting of cone-like and cylinder-like molecules. The alternating cone and cylinder sequence provides highly stable particles and further protects the encapsulated active. Additionaly, this structure strongly resists molecules associating with membranes, such as surfactants or preservatives. 4 TINODERM Nanotopes

5 Description 3-Dimensional Structure Nanotpes are ultra small carriers with a unilamellar membrane of a diameter between nm. They can encapsulate cosmetic actives, as well as, oils. Membrane architecture: Encapsulated core: External phase: Mean diameter: Lecithin/ co-surfactant monolayer Oil; cosmetic active Water nm Active Ingredient Oil Water Lecithin Co-surfactant TINODERM Nanotopes 5

6 Description Membrane Architecture Co-surfactant Lecithin Nanotopes encapsulate a lipid core by a phospholipid/ co-surfactant monolayer membrane. The membrane consists of cylindric (phospholipid molecules) and cone-like (co-surfactant) molecules. These constituents create a very densely packed membrane of small sized, stable particles. Such particles, i. e. Nanotopes, are highly resistant against surface active molecules and tolerant to elevated ionic strength, this in contrast to conventional bilayer membranes (liposomes). Consequently, Nanotope particles are compatible with many emulsifiers and surfactants and tolerant to electrolytes and ph. The mean size of Nanotopes depends on the encapsulated active, but, typically from 20 nm to 40 nm. Nanotopes are not only homogeneous in size, but have a very narrow particle size distribution. Nanotope constituents specified meet International Pharmacopoeia standards and manufactured according to GMP. Please note that Ciba Patents of the Nanotopes delivery system are pending. 6 TINODERM Nanotopes

7 Description Nanotopes versus Liposomes Lecithin Liposomes consist of an aqueous core surrounded by a phospholipid bilayer membrane. The membrane is solely consisting of cylindric molecules (phospholipids) which attain their highest stability as sheet-like structures. This liposome formation of such lamellae requires bending, resulting in a looser packaging of the membrane. Surface active molecules can intercalate the phospholipid bilayers and, impact the liposomes function by forming mixed micelles. Liposome membranes are sensitive to emulsifiers and surfactants. The consequence of this curvatureinduced membrane structure, results in a mean size diameter of nm, demonstrating a broad particle size distribution. TINODERM Nanotopes 7

8 Stability Surfactant Stability of Nanotopes Nanotopes Liposomes without Sodium Laurylsulfate (SDS) Nanotopes Liposomes with 2% SDS added Liposomes Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS, synonym for sodium lauryl sulfate) intercalates easily into the liposome bilayer and spontaneously forms mixed micelles with the phospholipid molecules. The appearance changes from opaque to fully transparent. Nanotopes Neither Nanotope membranes are changed nor effected by SDS. The appearance of the translucent Nanotope dispersion remains unchanged. Nanotopes (blue) and Liposomes (red) in Presence of SDS intact Nanotopes /Liposomes [%] % 2.5% 5.0% 10.0% SDS Concentration The above graph shows that the population of Nanotopes stays intact, even at concentrations of >5% SDS. Liposomes are destroyed quickly at low SDS concentrations. 8 TINODERM Nanotopes

9 Stability Surfactant Stability of Nanotopes Intact populations of liposomes and Nanotopes can be calculated by turbidity measurements even in the presence of surfactants/emulsifiers. The stability of the carrier particles can be expressed by the critical surfactant concentration c crit, the highest surfactant/emulsifier concentration at which Nanotopes / liposomes remain stable. Stability of Nanotopes and Liposomes in the Presence of Surfactants: assessed by c crit turbidity measurements and expressed in terms of critical surfactant concentration Surfactant Critical surfactant conc. Critical surfactant conc. c crit for Nanotopes c crit for liposomes Sodium dodecyl 7% 1% sulfate (SDS) PEG-20 hydrogenated >20% 1% tallow amine Laureth-11 6% 1% carboxylic acid Cocamidopropyl >20% 4% betaine Trideceth-8 10% 2% Nanotopes membranes are resistant to the integration of surfactants Nanotopes are compatible with many surfactants/emulsifiers Liposomal membranes can be attacked by surfactants (intercalation) Liposomes can form mixed micelles in the presence of surfactants TINODERM Nanotopes 9

10 Particle Size and Skin Penetration Carrier systems are more effective if they provide an even and homogeneous particle size distribution to the skin surface. The picture demonstrates the importance of the particle size in relation to the number of particles which transport a defined amount of a cosmetic active. If a active is offered to the skin by a particle of a size of 160 nm (conventional carrier) 500 times more particles are needed to transport the same amount of an active, than if the particles have a size of 20 nm (Nanotopes ). mean size: d = d0 1 particle encapsulates the volume V0 (e.g. conventional carriers) mean size: d = 1/2 d0 8 particles encapsulate the volume V0 mean size: d = 1/4 d0 64 particles encapsulate the volume V0 mean size: d = 1/8 d0 512 particles encapsulate the volume V0 (e.g. Nanotopes ) The picture demonstrates the relation between the particle size and the corresponding core volume. An active ingredient offered to the skin in a particle of 160nm diameter has 500 times the volume of a particle with 20nm diameter. While 500 particles of 20 nm diameter can be evenly spread over a certain skin surface, the one particle of 160 nm just covers a small «spot». 10 TINODERM Nanotopes

11 Particle Size and Skin Penetration Conventional carriers Nanotopes Distribution of active (red) on the skin Penetration of active (red) into the skin The high number of particles per cm 2 of skin area includes: Maximal skin contact of active encapsulated into Nanotopes Increased flux of active into the skin Enhanced efficacy of the applied active TINODERM Nanotopes 11

12 Particle Size and Skin Penetration Electron Micrograph of Nanotopes Particles with sizes smaller than 300 nm can only be detected by electron microscopy. The special method used is the Cryo electron microscopy (transmission electron microscopy) of ultra rapidly frozen samples (no water crystallization). This method enables us to detect nano sized particles in a native state without artifacts caused by sample preparation. Nanotopes Cryo Electron Micrograph, bar: 100 nm; mean diameter: 20 nm The electron micrograph demonstrates the even distribution and the small size of Nanotopes. The high number of particles present in the defined area can easily be calculated. 12 TINODERM Nanotopes

13 Particle Size and Skin Penetration Electron Micrograph of Conventional Liposomes The high resolution electron micrograph demonstrates the mean size and typical particle size distribution of a population of liposomes. The dense membranes of the liposomes are caused by the bilayer vs the monolayer of the Nanotopes. Conventional Liposomes Cryo Electron Micrograph, bar: 100 nm; mean size: nm The number of liposomes in the area of the graph is much smaller in comparison to the Nanotopes photo on the left hand side. TINODERM Nanotopes 13

14 Efficacy Study D-Panthenol delivered by Nanotopes Three different concentrations of D-Panthenol loaded Nanotopes were tested in a study on human volunteers by artificially inducing a UV-erythema. A cream containing 5% D-Panthenol as neat ingredient and a 0.1% hydrocortisone ointment served as controls. The efficacy of the active was assessed by colorimetry via the reduction of redness and by measuring the change of microcirculation by a Laser Doppler flow meter using the a* value and the erythema index.. Study design: (randomized, double-blind; on sixteen human volunteers) Treatments: TINODERM P (5% P); 10-fold and 100-fold dilutions (0.5% P, 0.05% P); empty Nanotopes. Controls: D-Panthenol ointment (5% P) and Hydrocortisone ointment (0.1% Hydrocortisone). Dose: 8 mg/cm 2 applied 2 x daily to specific sites ( 6.25 cm 2 ) on back, after irradiation by 2 MED (40 60 mj/cm 2, Philips TL 0.1). Measurement of erythema: Difference in redness of treated and untreated skin areas registered by spectrophotometry as a*-value and via erythema scale. Differences in microcirculation by laser Doppler flow meter. Erythema assessment via microcirculation: Nanotopes 5% P Nanotopes 0.5% P Nanotopes 0.05% P empty Nanotopes ointment 0.1% hydrocordisone ointment 5% P reduction of microcirculation hours after UV-irradiation TINODERM Nanotopes

15 Efficacy Study D-Panthenol (P) loaded Nanotopes (5% P and 0.5%) consistently demonstrated the highest effect on erythema reduction in comparison to the controls at 6h, 24h and 48h after UV irradiation. The efficacy of the 1:100 dilution of D-Panthenol loaded Nanotopes (0.05% P) proved comparable to that of a conventional 5% D-Panthenol ointment. Erythema assessment via a* value Nanotopes 5% P 0 hours after UV-irradiation Nanotopes 0.5% P Nanotopes 0.05% P empty Nanotopes ointment 0.1% hydrocordisone reduction in redness [a*] ointment 5% P -2.5 Erythema assessment via erythema index Nanotopes 5% P Nanotopes 0.5% P Nanotopes 0.05% P empty Nanotopes ointment 0.1% hydrocordisone ointment 5% P reduction in redness [erythema index] hours after UV-irradiation TINODERM P reduces UV-induced erythema in a dose- and time-dependent manner. The superior efficacy of D-Panthenol loaded Nanotopes following (6h) UV irradiation may be attributed to the small size of the carrier facilitating the transport of the active to deeper layers of the stratum corneum. The results demonstrate the highlight TINODERM Nanotopes of TINODERM P for use in after sun products and products against irritated skin. The results also demonstrate the efficacy of a carrier system in comparison to the neat active ingredient. The same carrier, loaded with another active ingredient still works in the same way as demonstrated with the D-Panthenol example. 15

16 Application Formulation Guideline Nanotopes should be added to the water phase. Neither short term heating to approx. 80 C nor homogenization will destroy the particles. Preferably Nanotopes should be added to the formulation during the cooling phase together with other sensitive actives. Day Cream with TINODERM E O/W Emulsion with Tinoderm E Day cream, preventing the damage of skin caused by free radicals Trade Name/ Supplier INCI % 1 Brij 72 Steareth-2 2,00 Brij 72l Steareth-21 1,30 Cetiol SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 3,00 Finsolv TN C12 15 Alkyl Benzonate 3,00 Fitoderm Squalane 2,00 Arlamol E PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 3,00 2 Deionised Water Deionised Water 71,20 Komplexon III Disodium EDTA 0,10 Pemulen TR-1 Acrylates/ C10 30 Akryl 0,30 Acrylate Crosspolymer Glycerin Glycerin 3,00 3 DC 245 Clycometicone 4,50 4 NaOH 10% Sodium Hydroxide Sol. 10% Euxyl K400 Phenoxyethanol & Methyldibrome Glutaronitrile 0,10 Phenonip Phenoxyethanol & Parabens 0,50 6 TINODERM E 5,00 Manufacturing Procedure Heat phase 1 and phase 2 up to 75 C. Add phase 1 to phase 2 under stirring and homogenizing. At 65 C 70 C add part 3. Cool down under stirring to 40 C. Add phases 4, 5 and 6 one after the other under stirring. Cool down to 28 C. Appearance white Lotion ph value after manufacturing 6,3 16 TINODERM Nanotopes

17 Application Electron Micrograph of Cream Formulation Intact Nanotope particles in a final formulation can be detected by freeze fracture electron microscopy. The fracture of these small particles goes through the particle and not along the interphase. The freeze fracture electron micrograph shows the oil-phase and the water phase of the cream formulation with TINODERM E. The bar represents 100 nm. In the water phase of the above cream formulation the Nanotopes can be seen in a homogeneous distribution and a size of about 20 nm. TINODERM Nanotopes 17

18 Features and Benefits of Nanotopes Properties and Characteristics Benefits for Use in Cosmetics Particle size of nm, what is smaller than the width of the intercorneocyte pores of the skin. Efficient uptake of the carriers by the horny layer. Highly efficient transport of actives to the target side of the skin. Increased affinity of the actives to the skin. Optimized distribution of actives to the skin. Maximal number of active particles per skin area. The smaller the carrier size the more particles encapsulate the same amount of active. Homogeneous particle size distribution. Cylinder/ cone architecture of the Nanotopes membrane More particles enhance the probability of active hits, i.e. a higher chance to reach their target, giving a higher efficacy of the encapsulated active. Nanotopes deliver an active in app. 500 more particles than conventional carriers to allow an even distribution. Nanotopes provide an even distribution of the cosmetic active from the water phase of an emulsion formulation. The architecture of the Nanotopes membrane provides high stability at the presence of surfactants and emulsifiers within a wide ph range. The Nanotope membrane protects the encapsulated actives on the way to the targeted skin layers. 18 TINODERM Nanotopes

19 TINODERM Product Range Ciba Tinoderm A Nanotopes with encapsulated Vitamin A palmitate Vitamin A palmitate is a precursor of Vitamin A which is known as the active to prevent skin aging. Nanotopes transport the Vitamin A palmitate to the target skin layers, allowing enzymes to transfer it into active Vitamin A, thus, initiating an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle activity. TINODERM A is used in skin care products with anti-wrinkle properties and prevents skin from premature aging. The recommended use concentration is between 2 5 % in a formulation. Typical applications are skin care products like day and night creams, gels or lotions. Ciba Tinoderm P Ciba Tinoderm E Nanotopes with encapsulated Vitamin E acetate. Vitamin E acetate is a stabilized Tocopherol precursor. Vitamin E is often called the «protection vitamin» of the skin. It shows anti-inflammatory properties and positively influences skin moisture properties and wound healing. Vitamin E prevents the skin from premature aging induced by UV irradiation and lipid peroxidation. Nanotopes transport the precursor of Vitamin E to the target skin layers where it protects the cell membranes from damage of free oxygen radicals, and at the same time, acts as a skin moisturizer. The recommended use concentration is between 2 5 % in a formulation. Typical applications are sun care and after sun products. Nanotopes with D-Panthenol. Panthenol is known as a cosmetic active with anti inflammatory and soothing properties. It is used in products for sensitive, irritated and stressed skin. In a human study TINODERM P showed a 100 fold increase in anti-inflammatory efficacy compared to non-encapsulated Panthenol. The speed of action of TINODERM P shows it s optimal/prefered use in after sun formulations. The recommended use concentration is between 2 5 % in a formulation. The major applications are skin care products for irritated skin, after sun products and after shave skin care products. TINODERM Nanotopes 19

20 Headquarters/ Europe Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. Home & Personal Care CH-4002 Basel Switzerland Telephone: Telefax: Ciba Specialty Chemicals Personal Care ASEAN/ANZ/South Asia Ciba Specialty Chemicals (Singapore) Pte Ltd. 4 Fourth Lok Yang Road Singapore Telephone: Telefax: hpc.asiapacific@cibasc.com North East Asia Ciba Specialty Chemicals K.K. Kansai Head Office 10-66, Miyuki-cho J-TAKARAZUKA 665 Telephone: Telefax: hpc.asiapacific@cibasc.com North America (Canada, USA) Ciba Specialty Chemicals Corporation 4090 Premier Drive USA-High Point, NC Telephone: Telefax: hpc.northamerica@cibasc.com Trademarks are either registered or pending and property of Ciba Specialty Chemicals. The information given in our circulars is based on the present state of our knowledge. It shows without lability on our part the uses to which our product can be put. IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyer s documents. SELL- ER MAKES NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. No statements herein are to be construed as inducements to infringe any relevant patent. Under no circumstances shall Seller be liable for incidental, consequential or indirect damages for alleged negligence, breach of warranty, strict liability, tort or contract arising in connection with the product(s). Buyer s sole remedy and Seller s sole liability for any claims shall be Buyer s purchase price. Data and results are based on controlled or lab work and must be confirmed by Buyer by testing for its intended conditions of use. The product(s) has not been tested for, and is therefore not recommended for, uses for which prolonged contact with mucous membranes, abraded skin, or blood is intended; or for uses for which implantation within the human body is intended. Central America (Mexico, Central America) Ciba Especialidades QuÍmicas Mexico, S.A. de C.V. Calzada de Tlalpan 3058, Col. Sta. Ursula Coapa MEX Mexico, D.F. Apartado Postal MEX Mexico, D.F. Telephone: Telefax: hpc.centralamerica@cibasc.com South America Ciba Especialidades Químicas Ltda. Av. Prof. Vincente Rao, 90 BR Caixa Postal BR São Paulo-SP Telephone: Telefax: hpc.southamerica@cibasc.com Ciba Specialty Chemicals Ciba Specialty Chemicals is a global leader in the discovery, manufacture and marketing of innovative specialty chemicals. Our products hold leading positions in their chosen markets. We add value beyond chemistry for our customers, employees and shareholders through our state-of-the-art environmentally compatible technologies and proven international marketing expertise. Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. Pub. No. TM.TB.0001.e.01 Edited in Switzerland

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