MILAN FACTORY VISIT REPORT

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Norah Tate
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1 MILAN FACTORY VISIT REPORT 11TH TO 15TH SEPTEMBER 2017

2 11TH SEP MONDAY AM - 11 AM Introduction about Moellhausen S.P.A and Company Video by Andrea Ghezzi Perego and Stephanie Moellhausen 11 AM - 12 PM Visit to Factory Facilities with Luigi Ducci 12 PM - 1 PM Quality Assurance with Claudia d Angelo 1 PM PM Lunch Break 2.30 PM - 4 PM Regulatory affairs with Francesca Perego DAY 1 AGENDA 01

3 1.1 INTRODUCTION TO MOELLHAUSEN Founded in 1967 by Eithel Moellhaussen, Moellhausen is one of the world s leading family run companies in the industry of flavours, fragrances and raw materials. The key departments in the company include: I. REGULATORY AFFAIRS: Compliance with Industry Regulations Compliance with Health and Safety Regulations Customer Support catering to requests with high level of autonomy II. PROCUREMENT OF RAW MATERIALS: Monitoring the financial market and exchange rates Analyzing macro-economic and political situations Understanding seasonality and abundance of crops worldwide Developing algorithms for the dynamic definition of minimum stock on an analytical basis Provide the most stable and competitive price in the market III. PRODUCTION, LOGISTICS AND QUALITY: The manufacturing plant in Cambiago is the heart of the production system Stock of over 1600 raw materials Over 14,000 samples of coded references are available Quick and Precise automatic compounders to prepare complex specialities IV. SALES AND MARKETING Market Intelligence provided to customers through indepth market surveys Trend forecast reports sent proactively to customers Access to detailed Mintel GNPD and market trend reports. V. FINANCE ADMINISTRATION AND CONTROL Strategy Planning and creation of business plans Cash management with predictive capabilities Risk management with legal and tax compliance DAY 1 02

4 1.1 INTRODUCTION TO MOELLHAUSEN VI. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT: Use of latest analytical instruments for chemico-physical characterization and application testing of new fragrances Access to advanced research technologies through agreements with select institutes Organoleptic tests with team of experts DAY 1 03

5 1.2 FACTORY FACILITIES TOUR CUSTOM DESIGNED SOFTWARE INTEGRATED WITH GENERAL ERP COMPOUNDING SYSTEM INGREDIENTS Supervises all mixing and packing operations. Any error in mixing is immediately displayed on the screen and halts further operations until rectified. Lines have different dosing intervals, being fed a total of about 30 powders and 700 liquids which are kept under nitrogen blanketing. >1,600 in permanent stock Automated Shelf-Life Alerts INSTALLED QC/QA EQUIPMENTS AUTOMATED WAREHOUSE FOR SAMPLE STORAGE MATERIALS GC/FID GC/MIS HPLC/UV-DAD Flash GC Refractometer GC-MS/MS LC-MS/MS Can store upto 100,000 representative samples of 30 ml each. Aroma Chemicals Complementary FFM Essential Oils and Plant Extracts Innovative FFM DAY 1 04

6 1.2 FACTORY FACILITIES TOUR DAY 1 05

7 1.3 QUALITY ASSURANCE/QUALITY CONTROL VENDOR RECEIVING/SHIPPING PRODUCTION MSDS/TDS QC CHECKPOINTS CUSTOMER BATCHWISE QC CHECKPOINTS CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS CUSTOMER CLAIMS MONTHLY INTERNAL AUDITS VENDOR AUDITS 4 CALIBRATION TESTS PER YEAR PEST CONTROL SYSTEMS (TOXIC/NON-TOXIC) TRAINING PLAN HYGIENE PRODUCT DEFENSE ANNUAL TRACEABILITY AND RECALL TESTS DAY 1 06

8 1.4 REGULATORY AFFAIRS CHEMICALS + PRODUCTS COSMOS CITES ECOLABEL SVHC NATURAL COSMETICS EXTINCT PLANTS ORGANIC LABEL ENVIRONMENTALLY DANGEROUS GOODS PIC REACH GHS NPS IMPORT CONTROL EUROPE, TURKEY, CHINA, TAIWAN AND S.KOREA DANGEROUS SUBSTANCES POISONOUS SUBSTANCES IFRA CARCINOGENIC SUBSTANCES DAY 1 07

9 12TH SEP TUESDAY MILAN TOUR // NICHE PERFUME SHOPS DAY 2 AGENDA 08

10 13TH SEP WEDNESDAY AM - 1 PM Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen 1 PM PM Lunch 2.30 PM - 4 PM Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen DAY 3 AGENDA 09

11 3.1 HISTORY EGYPTIANS JEWS ROMANS OILS/OINTMENTS/ INCENSE FOR RELI- GIOUS AND MEDICAL PURPOSES PERFUMES IN TEM- PLES FOR SPIRITUAL PURPOSES SCENTED DOVES TO PERFUME AIR / SCENTED WALLS FOR AESTHETIC PURPOSES WEST EAST EUROPEANS PERFUME IS BANNED BY THE CHURCH AS IT IS A SIGN OF SENSU- ALITY ALCOHOL DISTILLA- TION IS FOUNDED PERFUMERY COMES TO EUROPE IN THE MIDDLE AGES BE- CAUSE OF CRUSADERS DAY 3 10

12 3.1 HISTORY ITALY FRANCE GRASSE HOME OF FRA- GRANCES PERFUMERY BROUGHT TO FRANCE BY QUEEN CATHERINA DE MEDICI USES SCENTED LEATH- ER GLOVES. STARTED CULTIVATING FLOWERS TO MAKE SCENTS TO DEODOR- ISE LEATHER COCO CHANEL(1921) DEVELOPS THE FIRST ALDEHYDIC PERFUME INSPIRED BY POIRET CALLED CHANEL NO. 5 PAUL POIRET FIRST TO DEVELOP A BRANDED FRA- GRANCE AND GAVE IT AS A RETURN GIFT AT A PARTY. FRENCH REVOLUTION DISCOVERY OF COU- MARIN THE FIRST AROMA CHEMICAL, RISE OF MODERN PER- FUMERY DAY 3 11

13 3.2 OLFACTION We smell with our brain. Smell and Taste are highly connected. Humidity is required to properly smell fragarances (Luca Turin s theory). Best to smell fragrances with one nostril at a time. Avoid saturation of fragrances by smelling coffee beans or a familiar smell to you such as your outfit. All our senses receive signals from the outside world and keeps you alert. The sense of smell is connected to the limbic system which processes memories and emotions. There are no copyrights on fragrances. DAY 3 12

14 3.2 OLFACTION NORMAL PERCEPTION NAME CATEGORY ASSOCIATIVE MEMORY FAMILIARITY OLFACTORY PERCEPTION EMOTIONS FAMILIARITY ASSOCIATIVE MEMORY CATEGORY CHILDHOOD MEMORIES FROM THE AGES OF 1-4 YEARS GENERATE THE STRONGEST ASSOCIA- TIONS. EMOTIONS NAME DAY 3 13

15 3.3 PRODUCTION PROCESS NATURAL ESSENTIALS FLOWER, LEAF, STEM, BARK, WOOD, ROOT, BUD, FRUIT, GUMS, RESINS HYDRADISTILLATION VOLATILE SOLVENT EXTRACTION EXPRESSION(CITRUS) MOST USED PROCESSES CO2 EXTRACTION EXPENSIVE(PINK PEPPER) MOLECULAR DISTILLATION COLOURLESS PRODUCTS ESSENTIAL OILS RESINOID FATTY SATURATED CONCRETE EXTRACTED OIL THICK LIQUID ABSOLUTE DAY 3 14

16 3.4 FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS NATURALS AROMA CHEMICALS ODOUR CLASSIFICATION ABSOLUTE NATURE LIKE IDENTICALS BALSAM CONCRETE OLEORESIN ESSENTIAL OILS RESINS RESINOIDS SYNTHETIC FAMILY ADJECTIVES DAY 3 15

17 3.5 FAMILIES ALDEHYDIC ANIMALIC ANISIC FOUND IN NATURE METALLIC WAXY PUNGENT REMINDS OF IRONBOX SMELL CLEAN SOAPY CASTORUM CIVETTE(UNPLEASANT CAT LIKE SMELL) COSTUS INDOLE(NAPTHALENE) PHENYL ACETIC ACID OUD KITCHEN SPICES ANGELICA ROOTS ANISEED, BASIL, CORIANDER, CELERY, CUMIN, FENNEL MAR- JORAM OIL ANETHOL BASE NOTES TOP NOTES FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED DAY 3 16

18 FAMILIES 4. AROMATIC MOSTLY MEDITTERANEAN AROMOISE OIL EUCALYPTUS(VICKS) LAUREL LEAF LAVANDIN OIL(LAVENDER + EUCALYPTUS) LAVENDER(FLORAL, DIRTY SOIL) MYRTLE ROSEMARY OIL TOP NOTES BALSAMIC/AMBERY RESINS AND GUMS SWEET AND FRESH PERU BALSAM (VANILLA BUD LIKE) CISTUS(CHYAVANPRASH) ELEMI(PEPPERY) FRANKINCENSE LABDANUM(LEATHERY) MYRHH(BURNT TYRES, PLAS- TIC GLOVES) OPONAX (PINE NUTS SWEET) TONKA BEAN COUMARIN BASE NOTES 6. CITRUS BERGAMOT OIL CITRONELLA OIL GRAPEFRUIT PINK(BITTER/ SULFURIC/SOUR) LEMON OIL LIME OIL(COCA COLA) MANDARIN OIL ORANGE OIL(SWEETER THAN GRAPEFRUIT) PETIT GRAIN TOP NOTES FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED DAY 3 17

19 FAMILIES 7. EDIBLE (FOOD GRADE) VANILLIN FLORAL: NATURAL + AROMA CHEMICAL (BIGGEST FAMILY) ROSE ESSENTIAL OIL (GREEN, NATURAL, ARTI- CHOKE LIKE, VERY DIFFERENT FROM FLOWER) ROSE ABSOLUTE (SMELLS MORE LIKE FLOWER) TUBEROSE ABSOLUTE (LACTOSE, SPICY, GREEN, COCONUT) MIMOSA (SWEET, GREEN, CHERRY LIKE, COUMARIN, FRESH, POWDERY) VANILLA MALTOL (COTTON CANDY) CACAO TAKAM BEANS (DAIRY MILK) GERANIUM (CITRONELLA, MASCULINE) YLANG (BANANA, TIGER BALM, VINTAGE PERFUMES, SPICY CLOVE) ORANGE BLOSSOM (NEROLI, FRESH, FRUITY) CARNATIONS (ROSE+CLOVE, USED IN KENZ0) ROMAN CHAMOMILE (FRUITY, HAYLIKE, LEATHERY) DAVANA ESSENTIAL OIL (MARIGOLD, SANGRIA, FRUITY, WOODY, RED FRUITS) OSMANTHUS (APRICOTS) BASE NOTES TOP NOTES FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED DAY 3 18

20 FAMILIES FRUITY (ALMOST NO ESSENTIAL OIL, ONLY JUICE) GREEN GAMMA NONALATTONE (COCONUT, CREAMY, WHITE TUBEROSE) GAMMA DECALATTONE (PEACH + APRICOT) ALDEHYDE C16(STRAWBERRY) ETHYL BUTYRRATE (BUBBLEGUM + SUGAR) RASPBERRY KETONE MELANOX ACETATE ISOAMYL ALLYL CAPORATE (PINEAPPLE) CASSIS (PASSION FRUIT, MANGO, GUA- VA, PAPAYA) WATERY (WATERMELON + MELON) GREEN (APPLE + PEAR) YELLOW (PINEAPPLE + BANANA) RED FRUITS BLACK CURRANT GALBANUM (PUNGENT, GREEN, MASCULINE) MATE (TEA, COUMARIN, WOODY, GRASSY) TAGETE ABSOLUTE VIOLET LEAVES (FOREST, SOIL, MUSHROOMS) CIS 3 ESENOLO (FRESH CUT GRASS) TOP NOTES FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED DAY 3 19

21 3.5 FAMILIES LEATHER MINT MUSK SYNTHETIC EXCEPT BIRCH CASTOREUM ISO BUTYL QUINOLENE BIRCH(SMOKY, BARBEQUE LIKE, CHARCOAL, FIREPLACE) SUDERAL(LEATHER BAG, WARM) LEATHER BOLD BASE MENTHA ARVENSIS OIL(COLD) MENTHA PULEGIUM PEPPERMINT(SWEETER COLD MINT) L MENTHOL PENYREOL MINT(BURNT PLAS- TIC + MINT) WOMEN FIND IT DIFFICULT TO SMELL LONG LASTING MUSK KETONE(SOAPY, GEN- TLE, CLEAN) KOVANOL CIVETTON MUSK C BASE NOTES TOP NOTES BASE NOTES FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED DAY 3 20

22 3.5 FAMILIES OZONIC POWDERY SPICY CALONE(SEA BREEZE) HELIONAL(LIKE THE WHITE OART OF A WATERMELON) AMBER GREY OZONIL(FRESH AIR, DUSTY, AIRCRAFT SMELL) FLORALXON (WATERY, FLORAL, LILY OF THE VALLEY, HYACINTH) EVERNILOX COSMETIC CARROT SEED OIL IRIS ABSOLUTE (SMELLS LIKE BLUSH, JOHNSONS BABY POWDER) ORRIS OIL AMBRETTOLIDE ALPHA IONONE GAMMA METHYL IONONE (FLORAL POWDERY) BAY LEAVES NUTMEG(SWEET) PINK PEPPER GINGER CARDAMOM CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE EUGENELO SAFFRON TOP NOTES HEART NOTES FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED DAY 3 21

23 3.5 FAMILIES WOODY ROOTY CEDAR (CLEAN, DRY, PENCIL LIKE) CHINESE CEDAR(POWDERY, SMOKY) PATCHOULI VETIVER(KHUS) GUAIACAWOOD(PARAGUAY, SWEET, SMOKY, HONEY, ROSE, BIRCH) SANDALWOOD HEART / BASENOTES FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED DAY 3 22

24 14TH SEP THURSDAY AM - 1 PM Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen 1 PM PM Lunch 2.30 PM - 4 PM Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen DAY 4 AGENDA 23

25 4.1 DIFFERENT MOLECULES HAVE DIFFERENT VAPOUR PRESSURE FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE (HIGHER FRAGRANCE CONCENTRATION IS NEEDED FOR HOTTER COUNTRIES BECAUSE WHEN TEMPERATURE INCREASES EVAPORATION RATE INCREASES) UPTO 2 HOURS TOP GREEN, CITRUS, MINT, AROMATIC, ANISIC CUMIN 2-4 HOURS HEART FLORAL, SPICY, FRUITY, WOODY 6-4 HOURS BASE WOODY, MUSKY, POWDERY, BASLAMIC, ANIMALIC, EDIBLE, LEATHERY DAY 4 24

26 4.1 FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE NOTE A SINGLE DISTINCTIVE ODOUR IMPRESSION ACCORD MULTIPLE NOTES THAT CREATE A PLEASANT ODOUR DISCORD MULTIPLE NOTES THAT CREATE AN UNPLEASANT ODOUR DAY 4 25

27 4.1 FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE CANDLES REED DIFFUSERS DETERGENTS VERTICAL SINGULAR NOTES SOLVENTS: DEP BURNS VERY WELL. DON T NEED TOO MANY BASE NOTES LIKE MUSK SOLVENTS: DOWANOL + ALCOHOL DIFFUSES VERY WELL AT THE CORRECT PACE. (30% MINIMUM) NEED MANY BASE NOTES SOLVENTS: EPM AND DPG 1. Candle sweating is caused because of excess natural essential oils 2. Alcohol solvents can ruin plastic bags 3. Sunlight and heat are very bad for fragrances. Products need to be protected in Aluminium if conditions are such. DAY 4 26

28 4.2 PERFUME EVALUATION MARKETING TEAM CREATION MATCHING SELECTION REWORK REINFORCEMENT QUALITY TEAM PERFUME EVALUATOR // ORCHESTRA LEADER PERFUMERS REGULATORY PROBEMS MARKET KNOWLEDGE COMPETITOR ANALYSIS CONSUMER SNIFF TEST ANALYSIS SALES TEAM NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT HAS THE FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS FOR LEADING PERFUMES DAY 4 27

29 4.3 DIOR HOMME SPORT PERFUME GENEOLOGY CITRUS FAN DI FENDI POUR HOMME 2012 (WARM) SPICY JOUR DE HERMES ABSOLUTE FLORAL CITRUS EMERIGILDO ZEGNA 2012 (LAVENDER + ROSEMARY) AROMATIC L EAU PAR KENZO POUR HOMME (YOUNG, ZESTY, AQUATIC) THIERRY MUGLER COLOGNE 2001 UNISEX (CUT GRASS) AQUATIC WOODY GREEN STARWALKER MONT BLANC (MASCULINE) GOOD FOR VALENTINES DAY / FATHERS DAY / WEDDING COLLECTIONS DAY 4 28

30 4.3 J ADORE DIOR(JASMINE+FRUITY) FRUITY D&G LIGHT BLUE PERFUME GENEOLOGY UNTITLED BY MARTIN MARGELA CITRUS ELLIE SAAB LE PARFUM GREEN SOLIFLORE CHANEL NO. 5 TRESOR LANCOME (WOODY + FLORAL) ALDEHYDIC FLORAL WOODY FLOWER BY KENZO (CARNATIONS + CINNAMON) ESSENCE NARCISO RODRIGUEZ SPICY MUSKY ACQUA DI GIOIA ARMANI (WATERY + FLOWERY) MARINE CHYPRE STARWALKER MONT BLANC (MASCULINE) GOOD FOR VALENTINES DAY / MOTHERS DAY / WEDDING COLLECTIONS DAY 4 29

31 4.3 AMIR OUD: PRX (ROSE, SAF- FRON, AMBER, WOODY) SHERIDIEN EDT: PRX (MASA- LA CHAI, CARDAMOM, CLOVE) A MEN THIERRY MUGLER AROMATIC PERFUME GENEOLOGY FLOWER BOMB GIVENCHY (VETIVER, AMBER) VICTORIA EDT: ENDING IN 54 (WHITE FLOWERS) WOODY FRUITY ORIENTAL GREEN CAROLINA HERRERA (WHITE FLOWERS, FRUITY) FLORAL SPICY EDIBLE ANGEL BY THEIRRY MUGLER (BURNT SUGAR, RED FRUITS) GOOD FOR DIWALI COLLECTIONS AS IT HAS TYPICAL INDIAN FRAGRANCE MIXES + STRONG DAY 4 30

32 4.3 POISON PERFUME GENEOLOGY FRUITY ARMANI CODE WOODY LOLA BY MARC JACOBS FLORIENTAL SPICY BOUQUET DAY 4 31

33 4.3 PERFUME GENEOLOGY PARADISO(WATERMELON) FLORAL CHERRY ESCADA (RASPBERRY+SWEET AL- MOND + SANDALWOOD) WOODY NINA L EAU FRUITY CITRUS USED PRIMARILY FOR TOILETRIES AND DETERGENTS DAY 4 32

34 4.3 PERFUME GENEOLOGY COCO MADEMOISELLE FRUITY NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HER FLORAL CHYPRE GOOD FOR MOTHER S DAY COLLECTIONS AS IT REMINDS YOU OF RESPECTABLE WOMEN. DAY 4 33

35 4.3 PERFUME GENEOLOGY DRAKKA NOIR AROMATIC DAVIDOFF COOLWATER AQUATIC 1 MILLION PACO ROBANNE FOUGERE WOODY GOOD FOR MASCULINE FATHERS DAY FRAGRANCES / WEDDING / VALENTINES DAY DAY 4 34

36 4.3 PERFUME GENEOLOGY TERRE D HERMES (CEDARWOOD, PEPPER, CINNAMON) SPICY EAU DE MERVIER FLORAL WOODY DAY 4 35

37 END OF PART I

Tariff Item Description of goods Unit Rate of duty

Tariff Item Description of goods Unit Rate of duty CHAPTER 33 Essential oils and resinoids, perfumery, cosmetic or toilet preparations NOTES 1. This Chapter does not cover: (a) natural oleoresins or vegetable extracts of heading 1301 or 1302; (b) soap