Premature skin aging induced by air pollution: New in vitro insights approaching realistic conditions

Transcription

1 Premature skin aging induced by air pollution: New in vitro insights approaching realistic conditions Imke Meyer, Symrise AG Anti-ageing Skin Care Conference London, 07. June 2016

2 Taking anti-pollution protection to a new level 1 PM, the new UV? 2 How do PM affect skin s youth? 3 The anti-air pollution proof 4 Conclusion 2

3 PM, the new UV?

4 Atmospheric pollution gets global awareness Perceived as a primary cause of skin and hair problems 1 Lack of sleep Pollution & dirt, chemicals in the air (car exhaust/ factories ) Stress/ conflict Sunrays My age US 23% Mexico 43% Brazil 37% Spain 34% UK 21% Pakistan 37% Russia 56% India 40% China 51% South Korea 39% Japan 21% Source: Cosmetic Ingredients Consumer Study, 11 countries, n = per country; Q23_A. In your opinion what are the main causes of your skin, scalp and hair problems? 4

5 People understand Air Pollution does not stop at the surface More than 80% of consumers across the globe think that the skin absorbs the pollution that is in the air. Consumers in Brazil, Mexico, Pakistan and India are most sensitive to dust and dirt, followed by Russia and China. With greater urge to act in China, Pakistan, India, Mexico and Brazil. Source: Cosmetic Ingredients Consumer Study, 11 countries, n = per country; Q23_A. In your opinion what are the main causes of your skin, scalp and hair problems? (Applies in %). 5

6 Atmospheric pollutants? Emergence of new indexes UV / PM 2.5 Visible / IR O 3 NO 2 SO &

7 Atmospheric pollutants? Emergence of new indexes PM 2.5 UV / Visible / IR & 10 O 3 NO 2 SO 2 Among those, PM have been pointed out 7

8 PM come from many different sources VEHICULAR EXHAUST / TRAFFIC COAL BURNING POWER PLANTS & INDUSTRIAL COMBUSTION CIGARETTE SMOKE DOMESTIC HEATING KITCHEN EMISSION 8

9 PM accelerate extrinsic skin aging major epidemiological study 2010 / Prof. Dr. Jean Krutmann Pigment spot on forehead & cheeks: Pigment spots on forehead: Pigment spots on cheeks: + 22% & +20% increased by soot, respectively +16% by traffic related particles +8% increased by PM10 (particulate matter) Vierkoetter et al., J Invest Dermatol (2010) 130,

10 PM surveillance Major population in cities is exposed to exceeding AQG levels only 12% of the assessed population are exposed to PM10 or PM2.5 complying with AQG levels. 27% for the interim target 3 (IT 3, 30 µg/m3 for PM10 and 15 µg/m3 for PM2.5), 49% for IT 2 (50 µg/m3 for PM10 and 25 µg/m3 for PM2.5), and 62% for IT 1 (70 µg/m3 for PM10 and 35 µg/m3 for PM2.5). WHO s Ambient Air Pollution database Update

11 PM surveillance How do consumers adapt? Consumers increasing demand - to check the actual pollution levels, - to check the forcast of air quality, - and finally to protect skin by cosmetic products against these harmful factors. 11

12 How do PM affect skin s youth?

13 Their size is 25 times smaller than human hair Classification of particles according to diameter: PM10: < 10 µm PM2.5: < 2.5 µm Ultrafine particles: < 100 nm Countries / cities are encouraged by WHO to measure and monitor PM10 and PM2.5 Human hair 50-70µm PM2.5 <2.5µm PM10 <10µm WHO Air quality guidelines for particulate matter, ozone, nitrogen dioxide and sulfur dioxide Global update 2005 Keratinocyte 20µm 13

14 However small, PM do not really penetrate the skin E P I D E R M I S D E R M I S But they «use» the hair follicle as a passage to deeper layers. 14

15 What is effected by PM? PM E P I D E R M I S D E R M I S cytokines HM ROS cytokines cytokines ROS In the skin inter alia reactive oxygen species (ROS) are induced. Also the biosynthesis of cytokines like interleukin (IL-) 1α, 6 and 8 is enhanced. ROS 15

16 Skin cells are receptive to PAHs Via the Aryl hydrocarbon Receptor (AhR) PAH AhR Inside keratinocytes Aryl Hydrocarbon (AhR) receptors AhR AhR PAHs bind to AhRs The PAH-AhR toxic complex can pass into the nucleus 16

17 The chain reaction alter the cell s functions PAH AhR Inside the nucleus, it stimulates the expression of CYP1A1, MMP-1, POMC and IL6 AhR AhR OXIDATIVE STRESS COLLAGEN ALTERATION DARK SPOTS INFLAMMATION 17

18 The idea to neutralize the AhR by an AhR antagonist Arylhydrocarbon Receptors (AhR) preferably bind to : Flat molecules made up of benzene rings consisting mainly of hydrogen and carbon atoms (aryl hydrocarbon) The strategy : Reversibly block the AhR from interacting with aryl hydrocarbons The Solution: A molecule designed by Symrise with the ideal architecture 18

19 BDDI, an AhR antagonist Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone BDDI PAH BDDI temporarily binds to the AhR The AhR is no longer available to connect to PAHs PAHs are kept outside the nucleus Adverse reactions are limited 19

20 The anti-pollution proof

21 An original model, designed by Symrise Evaluate product efficacy against actual PM 1 Identify suitable surrogate samples for the study of authentic street particles. 2 National Institute of Standards and Technology, Gaithersburg, MD, USA SRM 1650b Bulk diesel particulate material collected from the heat exchangers of a dilution tube facility, following 200 engine hours of particulate accumulation. Representative of heavy-duty diesel engine particulate emissions (DEP). Mean Particle Diameter: 0.18 μm SRM 2975 The material was collected from a filtering system designed specifically for diesel-powered forklifts. Mean Particle Diameter: 19.4 ± 0.3 µm Both are associated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and nitro-substituted polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (nitro-pahs). 3 Comparison of authentic street particulate matter collected at a traffic intensive road in Copenhagen, Denmark, on 5 weekdays in September 2000 to SRM2975 & SRM1650b Danielsen et al, Particle and Fibre Toxicology 2008, 5:6 21

22 In-vitro test protocol Gene expression NHEKs: Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes Protocol: Cells of different donors were used; inter alia Keratinocytes from adult female Caucasian donor (53 years) Keratinocytes from adult female Asian donor (67 years) NHEKs were cultured in starved conditions for 24h prior to stimulation. NHEKs were stimulated with 1.5 µg/cm 2 particulate matter for 6h or 24h. In the presence or absence of different actives. Test-compounds have been applied 2h or 24h prior to particulate matter. qrt-pcr is performed to determine gene expression (upregulation of gene expression) 22

23 4 indicators Gene expression PHASE I METABOLISM WRINKLE FORMATION UNEVEN SKIN TONE INFLAMMAGING Cyp1A1 (cytochrome P450, family 1, subfamily A, polypeptide 1) is upregulated by AhR (aryl hydrocarbon receptor) agonists like polycyclic aromatic hydrocabons (PAHs). MMP-1 (matrix metallo proteinase- 1) is an enzyme involved in degradation of collagen POMC (proopiomelanocortin, precursor of α-msh and ACTH) released by keratinocytes, triggering the melanin biosynthesis in melanocytes Cytocines like IL-6 (interleukin-6) are involved in different premature aging mechanisms of the skin initiated by inflammatory processes. 23

24 Characteristics of BDDI INCI: Benzylidene Dimethoxydimethylindanone Activity profile: Ah R a n t a g o n i s t Protection against UVB induced premature aging via the AhR antagonism O O O Characteristics: Synthetic material Recommended use level: % Light yellow to yellow powder Easy to formulate (soluble in oils at the recommended use level) Regulatory: can be used worldwide except China SKIN CELL DEFENDER PROTECT FROM THE APPEARANCE OF WRINKLES 24

25 Cyp1A1 gene Phase 1 Metabolism Both DEPs stimulate CYP1A1 gene expression significantly with SRM1650 as a stronger stimulant * SRM1650b SRM2975 BDDI prevents this increase significantly * NHEK: adult, female, Asian NHEK: adult, female, Caucasian Comparable results for Asian and Caucasian keratinocytes. All further experiments done with Caucasian keratinocytes. *p<0.05 vs untreated + p<0.05 vs stimulated * * untreated 0% % 0% % BDDI 25

26 POMC gene Prevention of melanin stimulation BDDI significantly reduces the Proopiomelanocortin (POMC) gene expression induced by DEP. POMC is released from keratinocytes, triggers melanin biosynthesis and is responsible for the formation of dark spots * SRM1650b stimulated * vs untreated p< vs stimulated p< untreated 0% % BDDI % 26

27 IL-6 gene Skin preservation against inflammaging BDDI significantly reduces the DEP-induced expression of inflammation gene markers such as Interleukin-6 (IL-6), linked to an inflammatory response of the skin (inflammaging) * SRM1650b stimulated * vs untreated p< vs stimulated p< untreated 0% % BDDI % 27

28 BDDI, broad protection vs. atmospheric pollution The AhR chain reaction is triggered by But also by PM 2.5 & 10 UV O 3 28

29 Characteristics of BIO3040 Ginger root extract obtained by eco-friendly supercritical CO 2 extraction (no solvent) with additional steps of enrichment INCI: Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract Activity profile: Stem cell protector P o t e n t anti-oxidant p r o p e r t i e s P o t e n t anti-inflammatory p r o p e r t i e s Skin tone evening efficacy (clinically proven) no AhR antagonism* Characteristics: Natural material, standardized Recommended use level: up to 0.2% Yellow liquid Easy to formulate (oil-soluble) Regulatory: can be used worldwide STEM CELL P R O T E C T O R A N T I - I N F L A M M A G I N G & VERSATILE * Yoshida et al. (2014) J Agric Food Chem 62(24):

30 POMC gene Prevention of melanin stimulation Gene expression BIO3040 significantly reduces the Proopiomelanocortin (POMC) gene expression induced by DEP. POMC is released from keratinocytes, triggers melanin biosynthesis and is responsible for the formation of dark spots * SRM1650b stimulated * vs untreated p< vs stimulated p< untreated 0% % % % BIO

31 IL-6 gene Skin preservation against inflammaging Gene expression BIO3040 significantly reduces the DEP-induced expression of inflammation gene markers such as Interleukin-6 (IL-6), linked to an inflammatory response of the skin (inflammaging) * SRM1650b stimulated * vs untreated p< vs stimulated p< untreated 0% % % % BIO

32 In-vitro test protocol Protein biosynthesis HaCaT cells: Protocol: Human HaCaT keratinocytes were cultured in 96well plates 24h prior to stimulation with particulate matter. HaCaT keratinocytes were stimulated with 3,75 µg/cm 2 particulate matter for 6h. In the presence or absence of different actives. Test-compounds have been applied 2h prior to particulate matter. ELISA technique is performed to determine protein expression. 32

33 IL-1 alpha protein [pg/ well] Skin preservation against inflammaging Protein biosynthesis BIO3040 significantly reduces the DEP-induced biosynthesis of interleukin-1α (IL-1α), a key mediator of inflammatory processes in the skin (inflammaging). The results on gene level are confirmed on protein level. * vs untreated p< vs stimulated p< * SRM1650b stimulated + + untreated 0% % % % BIO

34 Summary & Outlook

35 Anti-Air Pollution Conclusion SRM1650b and SRM2975 are appropriate surrogates for authentic street particulate matter. Both DEPs were able to stimulate AhR pathway in epidermal keratinocytes measured as upregulated Cyp1A1 expression. Induction of premature aging was measured by upregulation of POMC, IL-6 and MMP-1 gene expression after incubation with SRM1650b. The presented methodology is applicable for the development of potent anti-air pollution actives by covering different pathways induced by an appropriate surrogate. 35

36 Anti-Air Pollution Summary & Outlook Summary Cyp1A1 POMC IL-6 MMP-1 BDDI BIO Next Steps Confirmation of results ex vivo on human skin explants. In use clinical study in a polluted city. 36

37 Symrise, always inspiring more in collaboration with Leibniz-Institut für Umweltmedizinische Forschung (IUF) an der Heinrich-Heine Universitaet GmbH Prof. Dr. Jean Krutmann Dr. Susanne Grether-Beck