Natural solutions for modern formulators

Transcription

1 Natural solutions for modern formulators Florence Olechowski, R&D Manager Cosmetics April 2014 A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe Titel der Präsentation 1

2 Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators 1. Biodegradability 2. Solutions from nature 3. Cold process 2

3 Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators 1. Biodegradability 2. Solutions from nature 3. Cold process 3

4 Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators Biodegradability Fifty-four percent of the shoppers interviewed consider sustainability to be one of their decision making factors and are leaning green (biodegradable products)* Nappy sacks, house and car care products, clothes A sales argument for cosmetic brands too: - Biodegradable, vegan hair care by Faith In Nature - Biodegradable, makeup remover wipes by La Fresh - Biodegradable, chemical-free nail polish by Priti *Source: 2009 GMA/Deloitte Green Shopper Study 4

5 Biodegradability Biodegradability - The silicone problem D4 and D5 are persistent and have the potential to bioaccumulate in aquatic organisms* Properties in skin care Inert for the skin Colorless/odorless Light feeling, sensory enhancer *Source: ii Environment Canada and Health Canada. Screening Assessment for the Challenge: Decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane (D5). November 5

6 Biodegradability BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care Very quick penetration Leaves a pleasant, non- sticky satin feeling Powdery skin sensation Clean Label: silicone-free, no compromise in respect of texture. 6

7 Biodegradability BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care BergaCare FG 5, a synergistic dosage of esters and unsaponifiables, readily biodegradable. Advantages in skin care Light feeling, simulates the skin feeling of D5 Nourishes the skin: elasticity and softness Transparent liquid, colorless/odorless, with low viscosity 7

8 Biodegradability BergaCare FG 5 Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion Phase Product INCI Name %(w/w) BergaCare FG 5 Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric Triglycerides 6,0 A Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 0,7 B Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil 1,3 Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside 2,5 BergaSom Sun 75H Hydrogenated Lecithin 0,8 Pioneer 37 P Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2 Glycerin Glycerin 1,0 Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100 C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s. Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 8

9 Biodegradability BergaSoft - modern surfactants BergaSoft SCI 80: Readily biodegradable Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, 78% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 D) BergaSoft SCG 22: Readily biodegradable Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, 83-86% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 B) Advantages of BergaSoft Mild surfactants Sulfate-free, EO-free Derivatives of renewable raw materials Preservative-free Good performances 9

10 Biodegradability - BergaSofts Base for creamy rinse-off formulation Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w) BergaSoft SCG 22 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 5,5 A BergaSoft SCI 80 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 17,4 Vegarol :50 Cetearyl Alcohol 3,3 Palmac Stearic acid 5,5 Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100 B Preservative/Fragrance - q.s. Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 10

11 Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators 1. Biodegradability 2. Solutions from nature 3. Cold process 11

12 Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators Solutions from nature Consumers are now thinking carefully about resources The boom of the green labels The global demand for organic personal care was over $7.6 billion in 2012 and is expected to reach $13.2 billion by 2018.* Even exclusive brands are claiming to be eco-friendly or chemical-free. * 12

13 Solutions from nature BergaCare SB - refined shea butter: Advantages at a glance Natural emollient High percentage of unsaponifiable matter Controlled production for premium quality Wide range of applications Good origin with marketing opportunities BergaCare SB - different forms available to fit the application: crude, refined, organic, high melting point, olein 13

14 Solutions from nature - BergaCare SB Base for body butter containing 15% shea butter Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w) BergaCare SB Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 15,0 Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 6,0 Onagra Oil Oenothera Biennis Oil 4,0 BergaCare EM-14 Isopropyl Myristate 8,0 A BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Caprylic Capric Triglycerides 6,0 Vegarol 22 Behenyl Alcohol 2,0 BergaBest GS SE Glyceryl Stearate SE 3,0 BergaCare EM-CP Cetyl Palmitate 4,0 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 3,0 BergaMuls HL 50 Lysolecithin 0,5 B demin. Water Aqua up to 100 C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s. Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 14

15 Solutions from nature BergaScrub - natural alternative to PE/PP beads PE/PP are produced from petrochemical origin Advantages at a glance Natural, ecologically sound, renewable, non-gmo, readily biodegradable Different particle sizes available abrasive as wished High melting point Competitive Odorless, colorless no effect on final formulation Smooth surface painless 15

16 Solutions from nature - BergaScrub Base for transparent peeling shower gel Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w) A BergaScrub 350 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1,0 BergaSoft SCG 22 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 8,0 Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 6,0 Cocamido Propyl Betaine Cocamido Propyl Betaine 5,0 Guar Gum Guar Gum 0,5 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan gum 0,8 demin. Water Aqua up to 100 Preservative/Fragrance - q.s. Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 16

17 Solutions from nature BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin Phosphatidylcholine (PC) 12-18% in standard lecithin BergaSom range: 50 to 90% PC Classic or hydrogenated Suits every application Chemical structure of phosphatidylcholine Available as a product of soy or sunflower seeds non GMO 17

18 Solutions from nature BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin Advantages at a glance High PC content: Source of linoleic acid Enhances penetration of active ingredients Anticomedogenic Source of choline Supports formation of ceramide I Physical features: liposomes, nano-emulsion, lipogel, High PC content, hydrogenated : Protects the skin Stabilizes TEWL Conditions the horny layer No oxidation possible Physical features: lipid membrane structure, liposomes, 18

19 Solutions from nature - BergaSom Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion Phase Product INCI Name %(w/w) BergaCare FG 5 Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric Triglycerides 6,0 A Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil 1,3 0,7 Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside 2,5 BergaSom Sun 75H Hydrogenated Lecithin 0,8 Pioneer 37 P Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2 Glycerin Glycerin 1,0 B Water demineralised Aqua Up to 100 C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s. Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 19

20 Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators 1. Biodegradability 2. Solutions from nature 3. Cold process 20

21 Berg + Schmidt Natural solutions for modern formulators Cold process 90% of the energy is used for heating the water and oil phases to C* Saves time, since no cooling is needed Sensitive ingredients can be added earlier Significantly lower overall carbon footprint for the companies/brands Requires special raw materials from fatty phase to emulsifiers * Russel Cox: 21

22 Cold process BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin Advantages at a glance Highly innovative and exclusive compound Powerful emulsifying and efficient thickening properties Natural, renewable Can be processed cold but is also heat resistant Easy to use (wide ph range, no incompatibility even at a high percentage electrolytes or UV filters, all kinds of oil polarities ) Neutral feeling on the skin for elegant final skin care products 22

23 Cold process BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin Conditions Realized with approx. 30% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 (caprylic capric triglyceride), 3% BergaMuls ET 1, made up to 100% with distilled water. Brookfield measurement SP 5, 20 rpm Temperature does not affect the performance of BergaMuls ET 1 23

24 Cold process - BergaMuls ET 1 Base for foot cream with 15% Urea Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w) BergaMuls ET 1 Beta Glucan (and) Pectin 2,4 BergaCare SB Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 4,0 A BergaCare EM-16 Isopropyl Palmitate 4,0 BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 Caprylic/capric Triglycerides 4,0 Pionier NP 37 G Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0,2 demin. Water Aqua 67,4 B Glycerin Glycerin 2,3 Urea Urea 15,0 C Preservative/Fragrance - q.s. Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 24

25 Cold process BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin INCI name: Lysolecithin Hydrolyzation: mild and natural process less steric hindrance 2 grades available : BergaMuls HL 25 and 50 Emulsions just after production Standard lecithin (STD) vs BergaMuls HL 50 20% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50 77% demin. water 25

26 Cold process BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin INCI name: Lysolecithin Hydrolyzation: mild and natural process less steric hindrance 2 grades available : BergaMuls HL 25 and 50 Emulsions after centrifugation Standard lecithin (STD) vs BergaMuls HL 50 20% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40 3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50 77% demin. water 26

27 Cold process BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin INCI name: Lysolecithin Advantages at a glance High level of hydrolysis Good emulsification performance Efficient wetting properties Promotes dispersion Multifunctional Cold-processable emulsifier Emollient for the skin Usable in spray formulations Anti-static agent/conditioner for the hair 27

28 Cold process - BergaMuls HL 50 Base for cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w) A Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 20,0 Cocamido Propyl Betaine Cocamido Propyl Betaine 8,0 BergaCare SB-RO Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil 1,0 BergaMuls HL 50 Lysolecithin 1,0 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan gum 0,3 B Glycerin Glycerin 2,0 demin. Water Aqua up to 100 C Citric Acid up to wished ph NaCl Sodium Chloride 0,8 D Preservative/Fragrance - q.s. Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 28

29 Cold process BergaCare SB-RO - refined shea olein Advantages at a glance Natural liquid emollient cold-processable High percentage of unsaponifiable matter Controlled production for premium quality Novel applications possible, such as rinse-off formulations Good origin with marketing opportunities 29

30 Cold process - BergaCare SB-RO Base for hair oil repair Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w) BergaCare FG 5 Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric Triglycerides BergaMuls HL 50 Lysolecithin 2,0 25,2 A BergaCare SB-RO Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil 36,0 Jojoba Oil Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 5,0 BergaCare EM-14 Isopropyl myristate 16,1 Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 9,2 Abricot Oil Prunus Armeniaca kernel Oil 3,0 Tocopherol acetate Tocopherol acetate 0,5 Ethanol Ethanol 3,0 Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 30

31 Cold process BergaSoft SCG 22 - soft sulfate-free surfactant INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Advantages Liquid surfactant cold-processable Based on renewable raw materials Transparent under certain ph conditions Contains no preservative Improves rinsing properties of the finished product Fresh feeling on the skin Easy to thicken High foaming performance 31

32 Cold process - BergaSoft SCG 22 Base for micellar water, cold-processed Phase Product INCI Name % (w/w) A Wasser Aqua 91,5 Pentylene glycol 1,2 Pentandiol 3,0 Glycerin Glycerin 2,0 BergaSoft SCG22 1 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate 0,6 BergaCare EM-HE7 1 PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0,9 Noedermyl 2 Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract Glycerin, Water, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract (and) Water Preservative/Fragrance - q.s. 1,0 1,0 Suppliers : 1 Berg + Schmidt 2 Induchem/Permcos Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment. Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties. 32

33 Formulations Silicone-free light touch emulsion Creamy rinse-off formulation Body butter with 15% Shea Butter Transparent & Sulfate-free peeling shower gel Foot cream with 15% Urea Cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners Hair Oil repair Micellar water 33

34 You find us at hall A1, stand 1B60 34

35 Thank you for your attention. Berg + Schmidt Florence Olechowski R&D Manager Cosmetics An der Alster Hamburg Phone: +49( 0) Info@berg-schmidt.de A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe Titel der Präsentation 35