symbio muls rich A new way to be caring

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2 A new way to be caring New launch 2015

3 Why another emulsifier blend? symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 3

4 Dr. Straetmans range of O/W emulsifiers and blends Product dermofeel GSC dermofeel PS dermofeel easymuls plus symbio muls GC INCI Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate Glyceryl Oleate Citrate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Cetearyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Caprylate symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 4

5 Dr. Straetmans range of O/W emulsifiers and blends skin feel light greasy, heavy low viscous, light textures, light influence on skin feel light textures, low impact on skin feel impact on texture and skin feel, Co- Emulifier needed dermofeel GSC dermofeel PS dermofeel easymuls plus symbio muls GC Viscosity symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 5

6 Dr. Straetmans range of O/W emulsifiers and blends skin feel light greasy, heavy dermofeel GSC dermofeel PS dermofeel easymuls plus symbio muls GC Viscosity symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 6

7 Why another emulsifier blend? Rich textures? Caring skin feel? Products for dry skin? Often realized through W/O-emulsions Working with W/O formulations brings inconveniences Formulating high viscous O/W-emulsions Requires the adjustment of many parameters in the formulation: texturizer, stabilizer, co-emulsifier, consistency enhancer Challenge to find the right combination of ingredients Demand for an optimized blend to fullfil this requirement symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 7

8 Dr. Straetmans range of O/W emulsifiers and blends skin feel light greasy, heavy Large range of textures, high viscosity, rich skin feel dermofeel GSC dermofeel PS dermofeel easymuls plus symbio muls GC Viscosity symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 8

9 Let s talk about symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 9

10 Let s talk about Patented O/W emulsifier blend for rich, creamy textures Integrates the stabilizing system for the emulsion Suitable for natural cosmetics Appearance: off-white pastilles, easy to handle Compatible with various types and amounts of oil Ready to use symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 10

11 Let s talk about INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera; Glyceryl Caprate; Tocopherol; Ascorbyl Palmitate; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 11

12 Let s talk about Powerful emulsifier combination for a pleasant rich but also soft skin feel Optimized fatty alcohol and natural wax combination for skin conditioning and consistency enhancement Wetting agent to enhance emulsification efficacy plus additional antimicrobial boosting effect symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 12

13 Let s talk about Night cream Natural Body butter Dry skin Baby care Rich Spa Sun screen Hand cream Face mask Creamy peeling symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 13

14 Features O/W-emulsions with can be High viscous Rich in texture White, compact, shiny Easy spreadable Providing a caring, nourishing skin feel symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 14

15 Let s talk about For your convenience: All components melted into handy pastilles Melting point: C symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 15

16 Comparison symbio muls GC symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 16

17 Comparison with Dr. Straetmans symbio muls GC - Basic formulation Phase Ingredient INCI (EU) Supplier 13.7 [%] 13.8 [%] A Deionised Water Aqua Glycerin 99.5 % Glycerin diverse dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate; Aqua; Alcohol Dr.Straetmans Verstatil PC Phenoxyethanol; Caprylyl Glycol Dr.Straetmans A1 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum CP Kelco B Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Gustav Heess dermofeel MCT Tricaprylin Dr.Straetmans s ym b io m uls ric h Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera; Glyceryl Caprate; Ascorbyl Palmitate; Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Dr.Straetmans s ym b io m uls GC Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Cetearyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Caprylate Dr.Straetmans Phytosqualan, veg. grade Squalane Sophim dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Dr.Straetmans Appearance: 13.7: off-white, dense cream 13.8: white cream with light gel structure ph-value: Viscosity [Brookfield: TF; Speed 10 rpm] L : mpas L : mpas symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 17

18 Comparison of emulsions with symbio muls GC and rich Basic emulsion with symbio muls GC Basic emulsion with symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 18

19 Comparison with Dr. Straetmans symbio muls GC symbio muls GC Natural emulsifier blend For oil phases between % For a variety of different viscosities, from sprayable to cream Light and soft skin feel even with high oil phases Bright white emulsions with gel-like appearance Natural emulsifier blend For oil phases between % For higher viscosities, e.g. rich lotions, creams and butters Rich and caring skin feel even with low oil phases Off-white, compact, shiny emulsions symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 19

20 Preservation and antimicrobial properties symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 20

21 Basic antimicrobial efficacy without any further preservatives Standard Basic emulsion with 6% symbio muls rich containing 0,25 % dermosoft GMC ph 5, cfu / ml A. brasiliensis C. albicans 1 0 days E. coli P. aeruginosa S. aureus symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 21

22 Suitable combinations with multifunctionals and preservatives For natural formulations dermosoft 1388 / 688 Verstatil TBG For traditional formulations dermosoft OMP Verstatil BOB Verstatil PC is tolerant towards all tested preservative systems. symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 22

23 Suitable combinations with multifunctionals and preservatives Rich Creamy Night with 7% and 1,0% Verstatil PC ph 5, cfu / ml A. brasiliensis C. albicans days E. coli P. aeruginosa S. aureus symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 23

24 Suitable combinations with multifunctionals and preservatives Rich Night Cream with 7% and 3,0% dermosoft 1388 ph 5, cfu / ml A. brasiliensis C. albicans days E. coli P. aeruginosa S. aureus symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 24

25 Working with symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 25

26 Working with Oil phase: 10 40% Plant oils Synthetic ester oils, mineral oils, silicon oils. Mixed polarities recommended Dosage: 5 7 % ph: 4 7 Addition of gelling agent to water phase recommended symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 26

27 Working with 1. Add to the oil phase and heat to ~ 80 C. 2. Emulsify the oil phase into the hot water phase while stirring. 3. Homogenize for 1 minute. 4. Cool down under medium stirring. 5. Add heat-sensitive ingredients below 40 C. 6. Adjust ph if necessary symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 27

28 Formulation advice Oils All types of oils are suitable High polar oils and plant oils might require higher amount of Good compatibility with active ingredients Plant extracts UV filters and pigments Ethanol Compatible up to 10% symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 28

29 Formulation advice Ingredients with impact on stability and viscosity Electrolytes (> 0,5 % NaCl for instance) Surfactants Ethanol (> 10 %) Cationic conditioning agents Can be balanced with additional stabilizer or viscosity modifier. Consistency agents (e.g. fatty alcohols, dermofeel viscolid) Butters Waxes symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 29

30 Viscosity versus concentration symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 30

31 Viscosity versus concentration Phas e Ingredient INCI Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua Ad 100 Glycerol (99,5%) Glycerin, Aqua Merck 3,00 dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Dr.Straetmans 0,10 Verstatil PC Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol Dr.Straetmans 1,00 A1 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum Rahn 0,30 Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Behenyl Alcohol, Helianthus B Dr. Straetmans Annuus Seed Cera, 3-8 Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Caprate dermofeel Toco 70 non-gmo Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Dr.Straetmans 0,20 Oilphase 10% 20% 30% dermofeel MCT Tricaprylin Dr.Straetmans Sunflower Oil Sheabutter Phytosqualan, veg. grade Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Butyrospermum Parkii ( Shea Butter) Gustav Heess Gustav Heess Squalane Sophim ,00 symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 31

32 Viscosity versus concentration Viscosity [mpas] % oil 20% oil 30% oil The dosage required for stable emulsions is virtually oil phase independent. The viscosity can be adjusted by the oil phase size and the amount of. 5% 6% 7% 8% symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 32

33 Viscosity versus concentration 10% Oil phase/ 6% Emulsifier 20% Oil phase/ 6% Emulsifier 30% Oil phase/ 6% Emulsifier 10% Oil phase/ 7% Emulsifier 20% Oil phase/ 7% Emulsifier 30% Oil phase/ 7% Emulsifier 10% Oil phase/ 8% Emulsifier 20% Oil phase/ 8% Emulsifier 30% Oil phase/ 8% Emulsifier symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 33

34 Viscosity versus concentration 20% oil phase 5% 30% oil phase 5% symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 34

35 Formulation Examples symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 35

36 Formulations with Rich Creamy Night (L ) Phase Ingredient INCI (EU) Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua Glycerin (99.5%) Glycerin Cremer Oleo 3.00 dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate; Aqua; Alcohol Dr.Straetmans 0.10 Verstatil PC Phenoxyethanol; Caprylyl Glycol Dr.Straetmans 1.00 A1 Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan Gum CP Kelco 0.40 B Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera; Glyceryl Caprate; Ascorbyl Dr.Straetmans 6.00 Palmitate; Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Sunflower Oil refined, organic Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Henry Lamotte dermofeel MCT Tricaprylin Dr.Straetmans Phytosqualan, veg. grade Squalane Sophim 6.00 Argan Oil, cold pressed Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Gustav Heess 2.00 C Babassu Oil refined Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil; Tocopherol Beraca* 0.50 dermofeel viscolid Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Dr.Straetmans 0.50 dermofeel MT 70 non GMO Liftonin Myramaze Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Aqua; Glycerin; Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract; Citric Acid; Tannic Acid; Potassium Sorbate Propanediol; Aqua; Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract; Citric Acid; Ascorbic Acid Dr.Straetmans 0.20 Rahn 1.00 Rahn 1.00 Perf. Balance PN Parfum AFF Claims: Protect and repair night cream with nutrition effect provides a caring sensation and wellbeing of the skin Specification Values Appearance: Light beige creamy emulsion. ph-value: Viscosity (Brookfield: TF; Speed: 10 rpm): Approx mpa. s. symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 36

37 Formulations with Anti-Aging Sunny Cream (L ) Phase Ingredient INCI (EU) Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua Glycerin (99.5%) Glycerin Cremer Oleo 3.00 dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate; Aqua; Alcohol Dr.Straetmans 0.10 Verstatil PC Phenoxyethanol; Caprylyl Glycol Dr.Straetmans 1.00 A1 Keltrol CG-RD Xanthan Gum CP Kelco 0.30 B Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera; Glyceryl Caprate; Dr.Straetmans 6.00 Ascorbyl Palmitate; Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil dermofeel TC-7 Triheptanoin Dr.Straetmans 8.00 C Cetiol B Dibutyl Adipate BASF 5.00 Parsol EHS Ethylhexyl Salicylate DSM 5.00 Parsol 340 Octocrylene DSM Eusolex T AVO Titanium Dioxide; Silica Merck 2.00 Parsol 1789 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane DSM 4.00 Uvinul T 150 Ethylhexyl Triazone BASF 1.00 dermofeel MT 70 non Tocopherol; GMO Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Dr.Straetmans 0.20 dermofeel E 74 A Tocopheryl Acetate; non GMO Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Dr.Straetmans 1.00 Pentavitin Saccharide Isomerate; Aqua; Citric Acid; Sodium Citrate DSM 1.00 Perf. Easy Going PN Parfum AFF Claims: provides a caring skin feel dermofeel TC-7 offers a better UV filter solubility Specification Values Appearance: Light yellow emulsion. ph-value: Viscosity (Brookfield: TF; Speed :10 rpm): mpa. s. symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 37

38 Formulations with Anti-Aging Spot Caring Mask (L ) Phase Ingredient INCI (EU) Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua Glycerin (99.5%) Glycerin Cremer Oleo 6.00 dermosoft MCA Caprylyl Glycol; Dipropylene Glycol; Dr.Straetmans 1.00 variante Glyceryl Caprylate A1 Keltrol CG-RD Xanthan Gum CP Kelco 0.50 B C Veegum Ultra Magnesium Aluminum Silicate RT Vanderbild 1.00 Almond Oil cold pressed, organic dermofeel viscolid palm oil free Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate; Behenyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera; Glyceryl Caprate; Ascorbyl Palmitate; Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil Dr.Straetmans 7.00 All Organic Trading 3.00 Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil Dr.Straetmans 2.00 Avocado Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil Gustav Heess 3.00 Cocoa butter, refined Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter Gustav Heess 3.00 dermofeel sensolv Isoamyl Laurate Dr.Straetmans 3.00 Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Gustav Heess 8.00 dermofeel MCT Tricaprylin Dr.Straetmans 5.00 Beraclay Crude Kaolin; Argilla; Mica Beraca* 3.00 dermofeel MT 70 non GMO dermofeel enlight Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Aqua; Sodium Phytate; Glycerin; Morus Alba Fruit Extract Dr.Straetmans 0.20 Dr.Straetmans Claims: provides a very nourishing and caring skin feel dermofeel enlight as proven active gently whitens the skin Beraclay reduces photo-aging and aging signs around the eyes Specification Values Appearance: Light brownish cream. ph-value: Viscosity (Brookfield: TF; Speed: 10 rpm): mpa s. symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 38

39 Conclusion symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 39

40 Conclusion - A powerful and effective O/W-emulsifier blend For rich skin sensoric properties, even at low use level Suitable for high viscous emulsions with high oil content Makes formulation easy: the perfect starter kit due to synergistic ingredient combination Suitable for all kinds of caring product concepts Ecocert / Cosmos approved symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 40

41 Application: product ideas and claims rich lavish Stressed cocooning nourishing Mature Dry luxury resistance Skin types caring protecting Sensitive Baby gentle symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 41

42 For more information on the application of wetting agents see our article series in SOFW 1. Thiemann et al. Wetting Agents: Friends or Enemies of Solubilizers. SOFW, 140 ( ). 2. Thiemann et al. Wetting Agents - Their Concentration-Dependent Effects on the Energy Demand in the Formation of Stable Emulsions. SOFW, 141 (3-2015). 3. Topic: Wetting Agents and Dispersions. approximately published in SOFW in July/August symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 42

43 Thank your for your attention! See you on booth 7 H 60 symbio muls rich - A new way to be caring 44