TEGO Care PBS 6. Versatile, PEG-free O/W emulsifier for challenging fluid emulsions
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- Percival Alan Hensley
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1 TEGO Care PBS 6 Versatile, PEG-free O/W emulsifier for challenging fluid emulsions TEGO Care PBS 6 is a unique PEG-free O/W emulsifier. It is based on fully renewable sources and natural certified. This powerful emulsifier shows outstanding stabilization properties in demanding systems providing broad formulation flexibility. Evonik delivers: 1. Efficient stabilization of low-viscous emulsions 2. Outstanding formulation flexibility for challenging ingredients 3. Provides moisturization properties
2 Benefits Gives outstanding formulation flexibility with regard to high amounts of water soluble UV filters, difficult to incorporate ingredients (e.g. insect repellents, natural preservatives, urea, electrolytes) Broad ph flexibility from 4.0 up to 8.5 Especially suitable for formulating low-viscous systems like lotions and sprays Allows production of O/W emulsions based on hotcold process Provides moisturization properties Allows the development of ethoxylate free products Applications Sun care lotions and sprays Insect repellent applications Facial serums for daily SPF protection Natural lotions Properties Fully based on renewable sources Certificates: ECOCERT approved natural*, natrue & cosmos certified Contributes to the production of certified sustainable palm oil Free to use in China Easy-to-handle, pelletized product HLB value: ~ 13 INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate * Valid certificate on personal-care.evonik.com Page 2/12
3 TEGO Care PBS 6 in the emulsifier landscape Emulsifier landscape Trade names Molecular weight [g/mol] 100,000 10,000 1, HLB value Silicone-based Silicone-based, PEG-free Vegetable-based Liquid Solid Paste Vegetable-based, PEG-free Cationic TEGO Care PBS 6 No. Product name Cream Lotion Spray W/O emulsifier 1 ABIL EM 90 2 ABIL EM ABIL EM 97 S 4 ABIL EM ISOLAN GPS 6 ISOLAN PDI 7 ISOLAN GI 34 O/W emulsifier 8 ABIL Care XL 80 9 AXOL C 62 Pellets 10 TEGO Care CG TEGO Care PBS 6 12 TEGO Care PS 13 TEGO Care TEGO Care PSC 3 15 TEGIN Pellets 16 TEGINACID C 17 TEGO Care TEGO Care LTP Cationic emulsifier 19 VARISOFT TA VARISOFT PATC Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH TEGO Care PBS 6 September 2015 Page 3/12
4 TEGO Care PBS 6 Performance testing set up Test systems Stability testing of various O/W emulsifiers Compatibility testing with different challenging ingredients Tested ingredients Water soluble UV filters, also in combination with insect repellent, natural based preservatives with low ph, sodium chloride Test design Same oil phase ratio, comparable viscosity and identical ingredients Test criteria Evaluation of emulsion stability and viscosity during storage under different temperature profiles Page 4/12
5 Performance comparison results for low-viscous systems Summary Test system Sunscreen lotion SPF 50 incl. insect repellent Lotion with 2% water soluble UV filter TEGO Care PBS 6 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate, Cetearyl Alcohol Lotion with natural preservative system Lotion with 1% electrolyte ( ) Stable formulation ( ) Limited formulation stability Instable formulation TEGO Care PBS 6 provides excellent stabilization in low-viscous emulsions with various challenging ingredients! Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH TEGO Care PBS 6 September 2015 Page 5/12
6 Test system for evaluating emulsion stability Low-viscous sun care lotion (SPF 50) & insect repellent Phase Ingredients (w/w %) A Emulsifier TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) TEGOSOFT XC (Phenoxyethyl Caprylate) Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S, BASF SE) Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate (Insect repellent IR 3535, Merck KGaA) Tocopheryl Acetate TEGOLON ECO (Nylon-10/10) Total oil phase B Water Glycerin Hydroxyethylcellulose** C Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco) Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (50% aq.) (Tinosorb M, BASF SE) D Preservative*** Remarks Final emulsion viscosity: 7 10 Pa s (Brookfield RVT, spindle 4, 5 rpm) Realistic emulsifier concentrations Identical phase ratio 1 TEGO Care PBS 6; 2 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate; 3 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate; 4 Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate; 5 Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate ; 6 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate*; 7 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate* 8 Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate, Cetearyl Alcohol * Added via water phase ** Natrosol 250 HHR (Ashland Specialty Chemicals) *** Microcare MEM (Dipropylene Glycol; Methylparaben; Ethylparaben; Aqua; Methylisothiazolinone, Thor GmbH) Page 6/12
7 Results for low-viscous sun care system (SPF 50) & insect repellent Test parameter TEGO Care PBS 6 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Polyglyceryl -10 Stearate Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate, Cetearyl Alcohol Overall emulsion stability Stability evaluation details No oil separation at elevated temperatures No viscosity change (increase) (increase) No oil separation during freeze storage Stable formulation significant strong very strong TEGO Care PBS 6 outperforms all tested emulsifiers in stabilizing demanding low-viscous sun care formulations! Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH TEGO Care PBS 6 September 2015 Page 7/12
8 In vivo short-term moisturization Test results TEGO Care PBS 6 provides moisturization properties delta- Corneometer Units Control TEGO Care PBS 6 TEGO Care 450 Ceteareth-25 Test design Test formulations: Control (untreated skin), Identical O/W emulsion based on three different emulsifiers Number of panelists: 14 Test area: inner forearm Size of test area: 5 cm 2 Amount of test formulation: 20 mg Measurement: Corneometer CM 825 (an increase of Corneometer units (CU) indicates moisturizing properties) Timepoints: Start, 2h after application Page 8/12
9 Guideline formulations O/W sun care lotion based on the natural emulsifier TEGO Care PBS 6 which is able to handle challenging systems like this with a very high SPF of 50+ and mosquito protection. Sun Care Lotion with insect repellent SPF 50+ (SG 40/13-3) A TEGO Care PBS % TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) 0.75% TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) 0.75% TEGOSOFT XC (Phenoxyethyl Caprylate) 6.50% Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A plus, BASF SE) 10.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00% Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco) 0.50% Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate (Insect repellent IR 3535, Merck KGaA) 4.00% Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50% B Water 45.00% Glycerin 2.00% C Water 14.20% Tromethamine 1.80% Processing 1. Add phase C to phase B and adjust ph of phase B/C to Heat phase A and B/C separatelyto approx. 80 C. 3. Add phase B/C to phase A without stirring. 4. Homogenize. 1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring. Remarks Formulation viscosity: 8 Pa s (Brookfield RVT, spindle 5, 10 rpm) SPF (in vitro): 64** UVA-Balance: 36%** * Formulation was tested with 0.8% Dipropylene Glycol; Methylparaben; Ethylparaben; Aqua; Methylisothiazolinone (Microcare MEM, Thor GmbH) ** Labsphere 2000S; 1.0 mg/cm 2, PMMA slides Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232, Merck KGaA) 4.00% Z Preservative*, perfume q.s. Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH TEGO Care PBS 6 September 2015 Page 9/12
10 Guideline formulations TEGO Care PBS 6 enables the formulation of sprayable, low-viscous sun care spray with a high amount of demanding water soluble UV filters to achieve a SPF of 30. Protecting Sun Care Spray SPF 30 (F 42/11-1) A TEGO Care PBS 6 3.0% TEGIN M Pellets (Glyceryl Stearate) 0.5% TEGO Alkanol 18 (Stearyl Alcohol) 0.5% TEGOSOFT XC (Phenoxyethyl Caprylate) 3.2% B Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S, BASF SE) 3.0% Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.0% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 2.0% Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4.0% Octocrylene 4.0% TEGOSOFT P (Isopropyl Palmitate) 2.0% C Glycerin 3.0% Water 60.9% TEGO Carbomer 341ER (20% dispersion in TEGOSOFT XC) (Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Copolymer) 1.0% Tromethamine (30% aq.) 0.8% D Phenylbenzimidazol Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232, Merck KGaA) 2.0% Tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane 0.9% Water 7.1% Z Preservative*, perfume q.s. Processing 1. Merge components of phase B and heat to 85 C. 2. Merge phases A and B. 3. Heat phase A and B and C separately to approx C. 4. Add phase A+B to phase C with stirring. 1) 5. Homogenize. 6. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase D below 40 C. 7. Adjust ph of formulation to ) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase C must be added without stirring. Remarks Formulation viscosity: 5 Pa s (Brookfield RVT, spindle 4, 5 rpm) SPF: 33.7, UVA-Balance: 35 %, CW 373 nm (Calculated values, BASF Sunscreen Simulator) * Formulation was tested with 0.8 % Dipropylene Glycol; Methylparaben; Ethylparaben; Aqua; Methylisothiazolinone; Aqua (Microcare MEM, Thor GmbH) Page 10/12
11 This body energizing lotion includes the skin cell vitalizer TEGO Cosmo C 100, a skin identical amino acid derivative. Due to the low oil phase content this formulation provides a comfortable skin feel especially under hot climate conditions. Body Energizing Lotion (SZ 9/13-3.2) A TEGO Care PBS 6 3.0% TEGO Alkanol 1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 0.5% TEGOSOFT CT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.0% TEGOSOFT AC (Isoamyl Cocoate) 2.5% B Water 88.2% TEGO Cosmo C 100 (Creatine) 0.5% Preparation 1. Heat phase A separately to approx. 75 C. 2. Disperse powders in phase B until uniform and heat to approx. 75 C. 3. Add phase A to phase B with stirring. 1) 4. Homogenize. 5. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase C below 40 C. 6. Homogenize for a short time. TEGO Carbomer 140 (Carbomer ) 0.1% TEGO Carbomer 141 (Carbomer ) 0.1% Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco) 0.5% C Sodium Hydroxide (10% aq.) 0.6% Z Preservative*, perfume q.s. 1) Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring. Remarks Formulation viscosity: 15 Pa s (Brookfield RVT, spindle 4, 5 rpm) * Formulation was tested with 0.7% Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010, Schülke & Mayr GmbH) Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH TEGO Care PBS 6 September 2015 Page 11/12
12 Europe France phone Italy phone Russia phone ext. 577 Scandinavia phone Spain phone United Kingdom phone Asia China phone India phone Indonesia phone Japan phone South Korea phone The Americas Canada phone Brazil phone Mexico phone USA phone Africa South Africa phone Australia Australia & New Zealand phone This information and all further technical advice is based on our present knowledge and experience. However, it implies no liability or other legal responsibility on our part, including with regard to existing third party intellectual property rights, especially patent rights. In particular, no warranty, whether express or implied, or guarantee of product properties in the legal sense is intended or implied. We reserve the right to make any changes according to technological progress or further developments. The customer is not released from the obligation to conduct careful inspection and testing of incoming goods. Performance of the product described herein should be verified by testing, which should be carried out only by qualified experts in the sole responsibility of a customer. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor does it imply that similar products could not be used. For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a specific area of interest, please contact the Head Office of Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH in Essen or contact your local representative. This product information is not intended to provide legal or regulatory advice about product uses or claims in any jurisdiction and should not be relied upon for such guidance (especially in the United States, Canada, and Mexico). Since global regulatory requirements differ, parties accessing this information are solely responsible for determining whether the products and/or claims comply with applicable local laws and regulations, including but not limited to import and export regulations. Please contact your local Evonik representative for more product information. Evonik assumes no liability for any use of our products that is not in compliance with the requirements of the country of the user. This product is not intended to be used as a drug. September 2015 Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH Personal Care Goldschmidtstraße 100, Essen, Germany p.o. Box, Essen phone , fax personal-care@evonik.com
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