13th CSCC Meeting, Poreč SAFE AND EFFECTIVE ALTERNATIVES

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1 SAFE AND EFFECTIVE ALTERNATIVES 1

2 Why use Alternative in Personal Care? 2

3 VERSTATIL product range Economy meets efficacy: safety first for low budgets! Page 3 Thomas Bussmann, Verstatil In-cosmetics Barcelona 2012

4 Major ingredients for preservation in traditional cosmetic (mass) market : Formaldehyde-releasers: Imidazolidinyl-Urea Diazolidinyl-Urea DMDM Hydantoin Quaternium-15 Parabens: Methyl-, Ethyl-,Propyl-, mix (Phenonip) Halogenorganics: Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamat Methyldibromoglutaronitril (Chloro)Methylisothiazolinon (Bronopol), (Kathon CG) Others: Cetrimonium Bromide Benzalkonium Chloride 4

5 Major ingredients for preservation in traditional cosmetic (mass) market : + economic Halogenorganics: Formaldehyde-releasers: Parabens: + efficient - proven irritation potential - bad publicity (negative press releases) - bad consumer reputation 5

6 DERMOSOFT modern, safe concepts multifunctionals > alternative preservation no listed preservatives But what to do, if preservative-free is not needed or can t be afforded, however formulator needs safe alternative? VERSTATIL closes the gap between safety economy positive image 6

7 VERSTATIL = versatile + (bacterio/fungi) static combines mild preservatives and modern multifunctionals globally approved raw materials reliable preservation at low costs 7

8 3 liquid, easy to use VERSTATIL blends: BP Benzoic Acid; Phenoxyethanol Aqua; Potassium Sorbate; Sodium Levulinate SL Phenoxyethanol; Caprylyl Glycol PC 8

9 VERSTATIL SL: Product: Claims: Blend of Sodium Levulinate / Potassium Sorbate free of formaldehyde / parabens / halogenorganics Natural cosmetics status: Ecocert, BDIH, Natrue, Cosmos *) Uses: Rinse-off formulations; wet wipes; (emulsions in combination with GMCY, Octiol) Use level: 1,5 2,0 % Optimum ph: 4,0 6,0 Efficacy spectrum: gram- yeast mold very good sufficient insufficient gram+ *) Sorbate needs to be declared as preserving system 9

10 Efficacy studies: Medical shampoo Staph. Aur eus Asp. Niger Cand. Albic. E.Coli Pseud. Aer ugin. 1,5% Verstatil SL@ ph 5, E.Coli Pseud. Aerugin St aph. Aureus Asp. Niger Cand. Albic. Standard wet wipe concentrate 1,5% Verstatil SL@ ph 5,5 *) Sorbate needs to be declared as preserving system 10

11 Target products to get easily replaced by Verstatil SL, e.g. Saliguard SP Rokonsal BS Euxyl K 712 Geogard Ultra VERSTATIL SL Generally blends containing Potassium Sorbate that are used in conventional and natural cosmetics. 11

12 VERSTATIL PC: Product: Blend of Phenoxyethanol / Caprylyl glycol Claims: Uses: free of formaldehyde / parabens / halogenorganics Emulsions, (gels, tonics, wet-wipes) Use level: 0,5 1,0 % (max. 1,1 %) Optimum ph: ph-independent Efficacy spectrum: gram- yeast mold very good sufficient insufficient gram+ 12

13 Efficacy studies: VERSTATIL PC: Surfactant formulation Pseud. Aer ugin. Staph. Aur eus E.Coli Asp. Niger Cand. Albic. 1,0% Verstatil PC@ ph 8, Staph. Aur eus Asp. Niger Cand. Albic. E.Coli Pseud. Aer ugin. Sun lotion 1,0% Verstatil PC@ ph 7,0 13

14 VERSTATIL PC: Efficacy in a standard O/W-emulsion basis: Glyceryl Stearate Citrate St aph. Aureus Asp. Niger Cand. Albic. E.Coli Pseud. Aerugin. Asp. Niger Cand. Albic. E.Coli Pseud. Aerugin. St aph. Aureus Verstatil PC ph = 5,3 Phenoxyethanol / Ethylhexylglycerin ph = 5, E.Coli Pseud. Aerugin St aph. Aureus Staph. Aur eus E.Coli Pseud. Aer ugin. Cand. Albic. Verstatil PC ph = 6,5 Asp. Niger Phenoxyethanol / Ethylhexylglycerin Asp. Niger Cand. Albic. ph = 6,5 14

15 Target products to get easily replaced by Verstatil PC: Optiphen Microkill PCC Euxyl PE 9010 Neolon CAP-G VERSTATIL PC: Generally blends containing Phenoxyethanol that are used in conventional cosmetics. 15

16 VERSTATIL BP: Produkt: Blend of Phenoxyethanol / Benzoic Acid Claims: Uses: free of formaldehyde / parabens / halogenorganics Rinse-off, leave-on Use level: 0,5 1,0 % Optimum ph: 4,0 6,0 Efficacy spectrum: gram+ gram- yeast mold very good sufficient insufficient 16

17 VERSTATIL BP: Efficacy studies: Standard wet wipe formulation ,0% VERSTATIL ph 5,27 10 A sp. Ni ger 1 E.Col i Staph. A ur eus Surfactant formulation E.Coli Pseud. Aerugin. Asp. Niger Cand. Albic. 1,0% VERSTATIL BP@ ph 5, St aph. Aureus 17

18 Target products to get easily replaced by Verstatil BP: Geogard types Rokonsal ND Euxyl 701 Saliguard BDP Euxyl 703 VERSTATIL BP: Generally blends containing Phenoxyethanol and Dehydroacetic acid that are used in conventional cosmetics.

19 One step further: Multifunctional wetting and refatting agent Strong antimicrobial activity High spreadability The range

20 The INCI: Appearance: Recommended dosage: ph range: Regulatory status 15/2003/EC: Efficacy spectrum: OMP Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol Colourless liquid 2,5-4 % unlimited Registered in EU, US, Japan / No allergens gram- yeast mold very good sufficient insufficient gram+

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26 SAFE, SIMPLE AND TAILORED

27 Propylene Glycol Purpose/Usage: helps a product to retain moisture Avoid because: penetration enhancer (alters skin structure, allowing other chemicals to more easily enter the system) Products found in: skincare, hair care, body care, makeup, baby care products, contact lens cleaner

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29 Biobased Process to Zemea Propanediol CO 2 bioprocess Fermentation process using patented biocatalyst Refine to 99.8% Purity Corn Glucose Zemea (Bio-derived 1,3-Propanediol)

30 Why Use Zemea in Your Formulations Performance Improvements: No skin irritation or sensitization Enhanced moisturization effects Improved sensorial attributes May boost efficacy of preservatives Unique solubility properties Environmentally Sustainable 100% Natural, Petroleum-free Versatile - Can be used in a wide variety of personal care products Emollient Humectant Solvent Carrier for actives

31 % Subjects Strongly Agree or Agree 13th CSCC Meeting, Poreč Zemea compares favorably in ALL attributes 100% Zemea Propanediol Propylene Glycol Butylene Glycol Glycerin 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% Spreads Easily No Greasy Feeling No Tackiness No Filming Soft Feeling Absorbs Easily Feels Comfortable Smooth Feeling Pleasant Experience Skin Feels Moisturized

32 Anti-fungal / anti-microbial testing Neat Zemea has antimicrobial properties that prohibit contamination during shipping and handling. Similar to PG, Better than BG Zemea can boost the efficacy of preservatives in cosmetics and personal care formulations.

33 th CSCC Meeting, Poreč Neat Glycols in Molds and Yeasts: 0 to 8 weeks For molds and yeasts, Zemea performed equal to PG and slightly better than BG. Number of colonies Zemea The neat glycol samples were inoculated with. After 4 weeks the inoculation was repeated. Mold and yeasts used in the testing: Aspergillius niger Candida albicans Blue/green Penicillium Trichoderma Time (hours) Propylene Glycol Butylene glycol 33

34 An o/w skin care emulsion formula was chosen as the base material. Six preservative systems were tested at one-half their recommended use level and evaluated in four separate emulsions with varying levels of Zemea. Results are expressed as the minimum percentage of Zemea needed to boost preservative efficacy. Preservative Microcare PM3 euxyl PE 9010 Neolone PE Jeecide CAP-4 Optiphen Lexgard Natural Geogard ULTRA INCI Name Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate Gluconolactone, Sodium benzoate Suggested, Weight % Actual, Weight % Zemea, Wt %

35 Minimum percentage of Zemea needed to boost the preservative s efficacy at onehalf their recommended use level

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37 Conclusion Zemea with Preservative Level Reduced by 50%: Zemea worked well with the phenoxyethanol-based preservatives and boosted the preservative efficacy for gram-positive, gram-negative, and yeast organisms. Zemea consistently boosted the efficacy of each preservative tested with Aspergillus niger. Zemea worked well with the natural based preservatives and boosted the preservative efficacy for yeast and molds. Zemea with Preservative Level Reduced by 75%: Zemea worked well with the phenoxyethanol-based preservatives and boosted the preservative efficacy for gram-positive and gram-negative organisms. Zemea consistently boosted the efficacy of the phenoxyethanol-based preservatives tested with Aspergillus niger. 37

38 Verstatil safety first for low budgets Dermosoft OMP tailored solution for paraben free solution Verstatil safety first for low budgets Zemea the Natural Choice Purity and Renewable Performance 38

39 THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION 39