How to make compliant claims with impact
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1 On-Line Formulation Training - Anywhere In The World - How to make compliant claims with impact Belinda Carli Director, Institute of Personal Care Science
2 Overview Claims what are the issues? Key points: must do Key points: must NOT do How to interpret evidence Formulation tips
3 Why are claims so important?
4 Types of claims Worlds best/worlds first/worlds leading Soft claims Clinical/evidence based Natural/organic Safety (or free from)
5 What are the issues with claims? Definition of cosmetics = appearance/odour based changes Competitors making incorrect claims Competition in the market place Can t claim physiological change e.g.: reduction in melanin synthesis in melanocytes in vitro of between 44 79% depending on the concentration used
6 Claims key points MUST comply with cosmetic regulations Appearance or odour based changes to the skin or hair NOT physiological changes occurring within the skin to achieve those changes Example 1: whitening agents work to inhibit one or more of the pathways to melanin production, but you can t mention anything about inhibiting melanin production INSTEAD: visible/appearance based changes the use of the ingredient creates, such as visibly lightens the skin by up to x% in x days.
7 Claims key points Example 2: antioxidants work by neutralizing free radicals, but since neutralizing a free radical is a physiological function, this can t be claimed INSTEAD: input claims eg: contains antioxidants or contains the antioxidant vitamin E. CANNOT link to external websites making unsuitable claims still considered advertising!
8 Claims key points should be specific, with expected results over a stated timeframe, based on the evidence Examples: contains [Tradename ], clinically proven to this product is clinically proven to must test the exact finished product formulation and hold suitable evidence
9 Claims key points must have evidence to support the claim ingredient must be used in the finished product the same way as the test results were obtained Example: if the ingredient was used at 2% in a cream applied twice daily to obtain the results, you would need to use it at 2% in a cream also with directions to apply twice daily. cannot use the evidence from a twice a day leave on product for a once a day wash off or once a week leave on product all evidence must be in-vivo, preferably placebo controlled and be statistically significant in a group of at least 20 suitable individuals
10 Formulation tips! Input amount must be correct as stated by evidence ph compatibility Temperature of addition Compatible base Ensure delivery
11 Claims why in vitro and ex vivo?
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13 Claims β-white (Lucas Meyer) performance results: reduction in melanin synthesis in melanocytes in vitro of between 44 79% depending on the concentration used. higher activity than arbutin and vitamin C when compared in vitro at 10µg/mL. this provides effective information on the reduction in melanin synthesis and activity in vitro to compare this material to other whitening agents.
14 Claims β-white (Lucas Meyer) marketing claims: finished product contains an active ingredient clinically proven to visibly lighten the skin by up to 21% in 28 days. finished product contains an active ingredient clinically proven to visibly lighten the skin by up to 30% in 56 days. 87% of consumers who used a cream containing this active ingredient agreed their skin tone looked more uniform. 91% of consumers who used a cream containing this active ingredient agreed their skin appears brighter than before.
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17 Claims Lumiskin (Sederma) performance results: reduction in melanin quantity of 70% in vivo. decrease in melanin synthesis of 51% ex vivo. higher activity than kojic acid marketing claims: finished product contains an active ingredient clinically proven to visibly lighten the skin by up to 25% in 56 days. finished product contains an active ingredient showing highly significant clinically proven visibly lighter results obtained in 85% of volunteers. 71% of consumers who used a cream containing this active ingredient agreed their skin looked lighter. 74% of consumers who used a cream containing this active ingredient agreed their skin appears more radiant. additional claims for age spots (if required)
18 REMEMBER!!! Appearance based changes only In-vivo evidence Be specific time frame and expectations Refer to trade name/material OR conduct finished product testing Use active at tested input amount no more, no less Use active in same product base, in similar frequency of use ph and temperature of addition
19 Questions? Comments? LEADERS in DISTANCE and ON-LINE training Certificate and Diploma level We bring the training to YOU Flexible study at your home or work See us on YouTube
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