Ingredients 101. Presenter Margaret LaPierre

Transcription

1 Ingredients 101 Presenter Margaret LaPierre

2 Abut the Presenter Licensed Master Esthetician Master Esthetics Instructr Hlistic Health Practitiner Certified Armatlgist Certified in Ostepathy fr Facial Esthetics B.S. Health & Wellness Bard f Barbers & Csmetlgy (Esthetics Seat) Advisry Cuncil fr American Cllege f Healthcare Sciences Presenter f webinars fr ASCP

3 Frmulatin What makes a gd frmulatin? Restres all natural skin barrier defense Prevent further deteriratin f the skin Restre the density f the stratum spinsum Supprt the health f the keratincyte A Well-Balanced Frmula Mimic skin structure and functin Skin barrier defense system Be cclusive Antixidant prperties Vitamins Supprt enzyme activity Slw dwn TEWL Saturating Restrative prperties Repairing Balanced ph

4 Frmulatin (cn t.) Skin structure is linked t prduct cmpsitin Texture AHAs/BHAs, enzymes, Vitamins A, C & E, glycaminglycans, peptides, anti-aging prperties, anti-bacterial agents Clr tyrsinase inhibitrs, melangenesis inhibitrs, antixidants, sun prtectin, anti-inflammatry Secretins essential fatty acids, ceramides, delivery system, vegetable prteins, emllients, humectants, surfactants and preservatives

5 Hw t read prduct labels

6 Prduct Labels (cn t.)

7 Labeling Exceptins If the csmetic is als a drug (has t be listed first and any alchl used) Ingredients that d nt exceed 1% can be listed in any rder Clr additives can be listed in any rder after ingredients that are nt clr additives Samples d nt require ingredients be listed Trade secrets d nt have t be disclsed Trade secret can be a frmula, pattern, device r cmpilatin f infrmatin that gives a business an advantage ver its cmpetitr wh d nt knw r us it

8 Incidental Ingredients A substance added during manufacturing and remved befre the csmetic is packaged (filtering aid) A substance added during manufacturing that is cnverted t an ingredient that has t be declared but des nt increase the cncentratin f the declared ingredient (sdium hydrxide) A substance added fr its technical effect in prcessing but nt present in the finished prduct (defaming agent) A substance added that has n technical r functinal effect n the finished prduct (preservatives)

9 ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

10 Active Ingredients FDA reserves the term active ingredient r active agent t define drugs fr use in the medical arena The term csmeceuticals was cined by Dr. Albert Klingman wh discvered Retin A The FDA des nt recgnize the term csmecutical, the csmetic industry uses this wrd t refer t csmetic prducts that have medicinal r drug-like benefits. Csmeceuticals/Perfrmance ingredients have a psitive impact n the skin t help restre the skin t a healthy state

11 Cleansers Serve a dual purpse as an active and inactive ingredient Active ingredient as a detergent and inactive ingredient as a surfactant Cleansers as detergents can be easily rinsed ff the skin whereas cleansing milks leave a residue

12 Tners & Astringents Astringent is technically a drug term Mst tners have a lw ph ( ) Tners Lightening affect n skin r pre appearance (ily skin) Witch hazel Ptassium alum Lemn extract Citrus extract Lipid Replacements Derived frm plants r animals (dry skin) Sy Sterls Sy lecithin Linleic acid Evening primrse Sunflwer il Brage il

13 Tners & Astringents (cn t.) Humectants Attracts water, restres hydratin (dry skin) Butylene glycl Prpylene glycl Srbitl Azulene Chammile Bisabll Other Humectants Glycerin (can be used alne) Hyalurnic acid Cllagen Elastin

14 Emllients Emllients lie n the surface f the skin Prevents water lss and TEWL Can be cclusive Lanlin Mineral Oil Silicne breathable, mre lightweight

15 Antixidants Free radical scavengers t neutralize free radicals Prevents xidatin and destructin f cell membranes Prevents the breakdwn f cllagenase, elastase and hyalurnidase Resveratrl Tcpherl Grapeseed extract Silymarin Hypericin C-enzyme Q10 Peptides Vitamin A Curcumin Super xide dismutase Ascrbic acid Green and White tea Elagic acid Alpha lipic acid Glutathine L-Arginine Beta Cartene Rsmarinic acid

16 Exfliants Mechanical plyethylene beads, shell r nuts Chemical AHAs & BHAs helps t breakdwn the intracellular glue in the stratum crneum Enzymes papain, brmelain, pancreatin, pmegranate, pumpkin, sweet ptat Clays bentnite, kalin, green, Rahassul, silica, hectrite

17 INACTIVE INGREDIENTS

18 Inactive Ingredients Make up the main part f the prduct frmulatin Helps the prduct t have spreadability Helps the prduct t stay mixed Helps the prduct t have a unifrm texture Adjusts the ph Preserves the shelf life

19 Water The mst cmmn vehicle t act as a spreading agent Can be an active and inactive ingredient Deinized water neutralizes ins that can crss react with ther ingredients r cause a prduct t be unstable Distilled water minerals and trace elements have been remved

20 Emllients Can be an active r inactive ingredient Lubricates the skin Helps t spread the ther ingredients ver the skin Gives the prduct a sft texture Petrleum - prtectant and lubricant Silicnes - leaves a prtective film and prevents water evapratin Wax - paraffin r beeswax Natural ils safflwer, sunflwer, jjba, palm and ccnut

21 Fatty Acids Triglycerides brken dwn by remving glycerin frm fat Give a sft, firm texture t ltins & creams Adds stability t the prduct Can be cmedgenic Stearic acid (animal fats) Caprylic acid (ccnut & palm ils r animal) Oleic acid (animal fat and vegetable ils) Myristic acid (ccnut il, animal fat, palm seed, vegetable fat) Palmetic acid (plants and animals) Lauric acid (laurel and ccnut il)

22 Alchls Used as emllients in misturizers Less sticky and thick than fats Imprves the viscscity f the prduct (thickness & liquidity) Cetyl alchl emllient, emulsifier and pacifying agent; derived frm tallw Lauryl alchl emllient derived frm ccnut and palm ils Stearyl alchl fam bster in cleansers Ceteryl alchl mixture f cetyl and stearyl alchls Oleyl alchl used in superfatted saps and dry skin emulsins; derived frm leic acid

23 Esters Used in skin care prducts and csmetics as emllients and cnditining agents D nt feel ily t the tuch Can be used t smth the skin r hair Serves as a prtectant Can be cmedgenic Esters end with the suffix ate Isprpyl mysristate Isprpyl palmitate Ethylhexyl palmitate Ethylhexyl stearate Isprpyl isstearate Glyceryl stearate Prpylene glycl Cetyl palmitate Decyl Oleate

24 Emulsifiers Ingredients that keep water and il slutins mixed tgether by acting as a stabilizer An emulsin is a dispersin f tw r mre immiscible materials Oil-in-water lw vlume f il t water Water-in-il lw vlume f water t il Water in silicne with silicne emulsin (hand r barrier cream) Oil-free slutins and gels

25 Emulsifiers (cnt.) Oil-in-water is the mst cmmn due t lwer prductin cst, ease f applicatin and light texture Oil-in-Water (mstly water) thinner viscsity (bttles) Water-in-Oil (mstly il) thicker viscsity (jars) Amphteric 9 Ceteth 20 Beeswax Plyetheleneglycl (PEG) Plysrbate Carbmer Carbpl Steramide

26 Surfactants Surfactants give a prduct bubbling r faming actin Bubbling r faming cleansers can be easily rinsed ff the skin Sdium lauryl sulfate Disdium lauryl slfsuccinate Ccamphcarbsyglycinate Alpha-lefin sulfnate Sdium laureth sulfate Ammnium lauryl sulfate Ccamindprpyl detaine Decyl plyglucside

27 Surfactants (cn t.) Cleansers with a high ph leaves a residue n the skin Sdium tallwate Sdium leate Sdium ccate Sdium stearate Cleansing milks Oil-in-water emulsin Water-in-il emulsin (cld cream) Tners shuld be used t remve residue

28 Slvents Slvents are used in prducts as a vehicle fr the prduct r ther ingredients Slvent the liquid part f the slutin Slute slid part f a slutin

29 Preservatives Preservatives kill 3 micr-rganisms in csmetic frmulatins: bacteria, fungi and yeast Preservatives are added at the beginning f the frmulatin prcess t make sure bacteria is killed as ingredients are added Natural ingredients breakdwn quicker than synthetic ingredients and are mre likely t be cntaminated with fungi Preservatives are listed at the end because small quantities are used. Natural preservatives grapefruit seed extract and tea tree

30 Preservatives (cnt.) Methylparaben Prpylparaben Butylparaben Ethylparaben Imidazlidnyl urea DMDM hydantin Methylchlristhiazlinne Methylchlrthiazlinn Quaternium-15 Diazlidinyl urea Phenxyethanl

31 Sunscreen Chemical PABAs Salicylates Cinnamates Benzphennes Physical Zinc Oxide Titanium Oxide Alternative Sun Prtectin Mulberry Leaf Algae Lady s Mantle Beta Cartene Vitamin E Meadwsweet

32 Lighteners vs. Brighteners Lightener - Hydrquinne is used in up t 2% cncentratin in the U.S. and Canada it interferes with the prcess that causes pigment t frm. Brighteners are OTC active ingredients nt apprved by the FDA: Magnesium ascrbyl phsphate, arbutin, kjic acid, bearberry, paper mulberry extract, bellis perennis and azaelic acid

33 Buffering Agents Adjusts the ph f a prduct t make a prduct mre acceptable t the skin Citric acid is cmmnly used Other ingredients used t raise the ph f prducts:

34 Sthing Agents Stearyl glycyrrhizinate (licrice rt) Matricaria extract (chammile) Green tea extract Grapeseed extract Ginsing extract Allantin (cmfrey rt) Bisabll Calendula extract Lavender extract Hrsechestnut Azulene (extract frm chammile) Mallw extract (marshmallw)

35 Natural, Synthetic & Organic Natural ingredients are nt regulated and sme prducts may have a small amunt f natural ingredients, but still marketed as natural. Synthetic ingredients g thrugh mre rigrus testing fr purity and stability. Organic ingredients are grwn withut the use f pesticides r harmful chemicals Certified Organic cntain 95% f rganic ingredients Made with Organic Ingredients cntain up t 70% f rganic ingredients

36 Clring Agents Certified and regulated clring agents are called lakes by the FDA Clrs are listed by name and fllwed by a number assigned t the clring agent and the metal assciated with the chemical structure (Example: Red N. 4 Aluminum Lake) Organic clrants are synthetic Inrganic clrants are derived frm natural surces Natural Clrants are derived r cme directly frm plant r animal surces

37 Fragrances Are the mst cmmn cause f allergic reactins In the U.S. cmpanies d nt have t list the surce f their fragrances and will be the last ingredient named n the label May be labeled as fragrance r parfum Fragrance-free prducts may cntain a masking ingredient t keep the prduct frm having an ffensive dr.

38 Reference Bks f Interest

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