EMULMETIK BIOPHILIC AMISOL SOFT HELIOFEEL
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1 Functional ingredients EMULMETIK BIOPHILIC AMISOL SOFT HELIOFEEL Phospholipid-based emulsifiers Bio-compatible ingredients - Active formulas - High tolerance
2 Emulmetik are natural lecithins and phospholipids with various phosphatidylcholine contents. Used as co-emulsifiers, wetting agents or active ingredients, they improve all types of formulation with a unique sensorial and natural approach. PHOSPHOLIPIDS AS NATURAL EMULSIFIERS Polar lipids and above all phospholipids are essential constituents of the cellular membrane of all living organisms. Organized in bi-layers, they form a selective and protective barrier which regulates cell life. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics extracts phospholipids from various vegetable sources to provide the cosmetic industry with natural and biocompatible emulsifying molecules to formulate O/W emulsions. Phospholipids (including phosphatidylcholine) are long molecules designed by nature with a hydrophilic head and two lipophilic tails. This amphiphilic character is responsible for their emulsifying properties. When used as co-emulsifiers in combination with other emulsifiers or molecules with high HLB, their emulsifying properties are enhanced. When used in make-up, the pigments bind to the polar group of phospholipids and are thus dispersed in the oil phase, while avoiding pigment aggregation. This property is accompanied by an interesting decrease in viscosity for example during the pouring of lipstick. Under specific conditions, they can also form liposomes. Liposomes are mainly used as delivery systems to encapsulate both watersoluble and oil-soluble compounds in a skin-compatible structure, which facilitates the penetration and helps active ingredients to reach selected targets. 1% ACTIVE FORMULAS Phospholipids also have specific biological activities. As natural skin-identical ingredients, they have a high affinity to the skin and therefore are diffused through the cutaneous layers easily. They are important source of essential fatty acids to keep the skin supple. They form a protective and restructuring film on the skin s surface which prevents the water loss while increasing the hydration of the stratum corneum, and acts as a delivery system for a continuous and long-lasting effect. The base of the formulation is therefore also an entire active part of the formulation. EMULMETIK 1* INCI name Lecithin Lecithin Hydrogenated Lecithin Lecithin Lecithin Hydrogenated Lecithin Phospholipids and glycolipids 6% 97% 97% 97% 97% 97% Phosphatidylcholine 12% 23% 23% 5% 95% 97% Technical function Moisturizer Wetting agent Sensorial adjuster Co-emulsifier Stabilizing agent Wetting agent Co-emulsifier Stabilizing agent Wetting agent Liposome precursor Liposome precursor Liposome precursor Ecocert status Registered * Exists in organic version: ORGANIC LECITHIN Phospholipids combine technological function and skin treating properties.
3 Biophilic is a patented natural lamellar O/W system based on the emulsifying properties of phospholipids combined with other vegetable lipids. For a sophisticated skin feel. Product description INCI NAME BIOPHILIC H Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid BIOPHILIC S Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid THE PHOSPHOLIPID TOUCH Lamellar network When combined with other fatty acids and fatty alcohols, the emulsifying properties of phospholipids are improved. They first form monolayers around oil droplets, and progressively, a bilayer network is formed in the aqueous phase to create a lamellar structure. ECOCERT / COSMOS STATUS Registered APPEARANCE Beige to light grey pellets (H) Light yellow pellets (S) FORMULATION Hydrate for 2 minutes above 65 C OPTIMUM ph 5-7 DOSAGE 3-6% APPLICATIONS Lotions to butter emulsions for: - Skin care - Suncare - Make-up % compared to untreated zone CHINA-COMPLIANT Variation of TEWL Before the application of the gel 3h after the application of the gel -22 Gel with 5% Biophilic tested on the forearms of 6 volunteers, after washing with a 1% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate Lamellar structure of a cream with Biophilic The rigid lamellar network formed with Biophilic yields very stable creams capable of carrying up to 3% by weight of oil: oil-drops are stabilized in the layers of the emulsion. It is also able to entrap active ingredients which are continuously released as the cream penetrates the skin. The Second Skin concept The lamellar emulsion mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum for a perfect affinity. It acts as a second skin and therefore helps to restore the cutaneous barrier of damaged skin. The emulsion melts on the skin during the application and forms a restructuring film which reduces TEWL. Rich and sophisticated texture n Oil n Smooth matrix Biophilic is particularly recommended to create rich textures, since the fatty alcohol and the palmitic acid provide consistency and nourishing sensation. The Biophilic range contains two references with different lecithins. Network of stacked sheets Primary particles - The hydrogenated lecithin in Biophilic H provides very important thickening properties and allows the formulation of white and odorless emulsions from cream to butter. - Biophilic S contains unsaturated lecithin, creating softer and more fluid off-white textures from lotion to cream. Biophilic forms lamellar O/W emulsions able to restore the skin barrier.
4 Amisol Soft is an optimized blend of phospholipids, phytosterols and vegetable lipids which forms lamellar O/W emulsions for soft applications. Product description INCI NAME Behenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols ECOCERT / COSMOS STATUS Registered APPEARANCE Light yellow pellets FORMULATION Hydrate for 2 minutes above 65 C THE GENTLE EMULSIFIER Lamellar structure of a cream with Amisol Soft Lamellar network Lamellar O/W creams and lotions formulated with Amisol Soft are organized in phospholipidic bilayers with interspersed phytosterols and fatty alcohols. The combination of phospholipids with phytosterols allows the formation of a stable supple lamellar network, leading to fluid emulsions. This biomimetic structure is particularly suitable for sensitive or stressed skins. OPTIMUM ph 4-7 DOSAGE 3-6% APPLICATIONS Lotions to creams: - Sensitive skin care - Baby care products - Suncare - Make-up CHINA-COMPLIANT 2 TEWL Variation 17 Protective action The natural barrier of irritated skin is disrupted by physical and chemical damages, causing redness and dryness. Amisol Soft forms a biomimetic lipid film on the skin s surface to prevent damage. The phytosterols also soothe and calm the irritated skin due to their well-known anti-inflammatory properties. Amisol Soft maintains the protective function of the stratum corneum. The TEWL is reduced ensuring optimum hydration. % compared to T h 2h Time (hours) Control Placebo Amisol Soft Polysensorial Gel with 5% Amisol Soft tested on the forearms of 11 volunteers Emulsions made with Amisol Soft have three main features. Firstly, they give an immediate feeling of coolness. Secondly, the voluptuous character of the emulsion provides unctuous sensation. Its shear thinning behavior improves the spreadability properties of creams and lotions. Finally, Amisol Soft leaves the skin velvety smooth. Amisol Soft creates soft lamellar O/W emulsions with protective and soothing effects.
5 Heliofeel is an easy-to-use natural O/W emulsifier with sunflower phospholipids. It creates a wide range of textures, and can be used in all formulation types. Product description INCI NAME Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin ECOCERT / COSMOS STATUS Registered APPEARANCE Light yellow pellets FORMULATION Introduce into oil phase OPTIMUM ph 4-8 DOSAGE 3-6% APPLICATIONS - Sprayable to cream emulsions - Suncare - Make-up THE POLYVALENT EMULSIFIER Cream structure with Heliofeel Easy-to-use Made with sunflower phospholipids and two other natural emulsifying ingredients, Heliofeel is the last launched emulsifier in the Lucas Meyer Cosmetics series. It provides a micellar O/W emulsion with a discontinuous lamellar phase around oil droplets. Heliofeel is very simple to use as it doesn t require the hydration of phospholipids. Heliofeel is compatible with a large variety of oils (up to 4% with 4% Heliofeel ), pigments and both physical and chemical sunscreens. It forms particularly stable emulsions in the presence of electrolytes (e.g. 1% NaCl) and other destabilizing agents (organic acids, glyceryl esters...) over a wide range of ph. CHINA-COMPLIANT % compared to untreated zone Placebo Variation of TEWL Time (hours) 1h 2h 3h 4h -5% -6% -6% -8% Heliofeel Large range of textures Polyvalent, it allows the formulation of a large range of textures from sprayable emulsions when used alone, to cream emulsions when combined with a thickener. The viscosity increases with increasing Heliofeel and oil phase contents. According to the specific sensorial profile established by an expert panel, Heliofeel gives more fluid white emulsions with higher brightness and a better penetration when applied. This is based on its less rigid non lamellar structure. Moisturizing action Based on the film-forming properties of phospholipids, Heliofeel forms a protective barrier, which decreases TEWL and therefore helps to keep the skin moisturized. Active formula: Heliofeel (4%), Phenonip (.5%), water (95.5%) Placebo: Phenonip (.5%), water (99.5%) Heliofeel provides moisturizing micellar O/W emulsions from sprays to creams.
6 After Shave Balm C6 ECO INGREDIENTS INCI NAMES % A Deionised water Water 61.7 Dermofeel PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water.1 B Glycerin Glycerin 5. Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum.3 Amigum Sclerotium gum.3 C Amisol Soft Behenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate 4. (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols Cetiol CC Dicaprylyl carbonate 7. Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5. Shea butter Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 2. Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 2. Dermofeel GSC* Glyceryl stearate citrate 1. Dermofeel Toco 7 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus.2 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil D Capt-System PS Glycerin (and) Water (and) Dicaprylyl ether 4. (and) Lecithin (and) Phytosphingosine Lysosensyl Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lysolecithin 4. E Dermorganics 1388* Fragrance 3. Potassium sorbate Potassium sorbate.3 F Eau de source C4212 Fragrance.1 ph: Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 2-3 mpa.s Nutricream C84 ECO INGREDIENTS INCI NAMES % A Deionised water Water 58.8 Dermofeel PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water.1 B Glycerin Glycerin 4. Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum.3 Amigum Sclerotium gum.3 C Biophilic H Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols 4. (and) Palmitic acid D Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 7. Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 5. Shea butter Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 3. Dermofeel Sensolv* Isoamyl laurate 6. Dermofeel Toco 7 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus.2 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil E Sculptessence Water (and) Glycerin (and) Linum 5. usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract Suprem Nature Water (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 2. Avoine seed oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Avena sativa (oat) kernel extract Songa Water (and) Solidago virgaurea (goldenrod) 1. extract F Dermorganics 1388* Fragrance 3. Potassium sorbate Potassium sorbate.3 ph: Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 2-3 mpa.s Rebalancing Cream C84 INGREDIENTS INCI NAMES % A Deionised water Water Amigel Sclerotium gum.5 Dermofeel PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water.1 Blue 1.1% solution Water (and) CI Linumine Linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract.25 Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin.3 B Heliofeel Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) 4. Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin Dermofeel Toco 7 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus.2 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil Dermofeel BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate 4. Dc 2.35 CS Dimethicone 3. Dub inin Isononyl isononanoate 4. Crodamol W Stearyl heptanoate 3. C Hydraporine Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) 3. Hydrogenated lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin Canadian Willowherb Water (and) Epilobium angustifolium 1. flower/leaf/stem extract Kollaren Water (and) Dextran (and) Tripeptide-1 1. D Dermosoft 1388* Fragrance 3. E Capture 368 Fragrance.2 ph: Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 1-2 mpa.s Milky Aqua Cream C88 INGREDIENTS INCI NAMES % A Deionised water Water 65.2 FDC yellow 5.1% Water (and) CI solution FDC red 4.1% Water (and) CI solution Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin.3 Dermofeel PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water.1 Biophilic S Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) 4. Palmitic acid B Glycerin Glycerin 3. Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum.3 Amigel Sclerotium gum.2 C Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 3. Dermofeel Toco 7 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus.2 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 5. Dc 2.35 CS Dimethicone 2. Dermofeel BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 5. D Isocell Life Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) 4. Butylene glycol (and) Sodium styrene/acrylates copolymer Suprem WP Water (and) Gossypium herbaceum (cotton) 1. Coton seed oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl stearate Exo-H Butylene glycol (and) Alteromanas ferment 1. filtrate E Covabead PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate 2. F Dermosoft 1388* Fragrance 3. G Empreinte 494 Fragrance.1 * Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. ph: Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 1-15 mpa.s
7 UNIQUE SENSORIAL PROFILE Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has optimized the emulsifying properties of phospholipids by combining them with other natural compounds with higher HLB values. Three generations of phospholipid-based emulsifiers have been developed - Biophilic, Amisol Soft and Heliofeel - to offer various choices of formulations with unique sensorial characteristics. Opacity 1 Phospholipid touch Softness Tackiness Residue White (color) Brightness Fluidity The sensory profiles of basic creams containing 4% of each emulsifier were evaluated by an expert panel. All phospholipidbased emulsifiers give some similar results which can be characterized as the Phospholipid Touch : Cool Slippery Non-tacky Soft Penetration Picking However, each emulsifier has its own individual benefits and is recommended for different applications based on the desired texture and skin feel. Greasiness Slipping Biophilic H Amisol Soft Spreadability Whitening (application) Coolness Heliofeel HIGH TOLERANCE Cellular viability % % -8% Biophilic H Amisol Soft Heliofeel Sucroesters Ethoxylated system The ingredients composing Biophilic, Amisol Soft and Heliofeel have been selected with particular care. They are 1% natural raw materials and present a high affinity and biocompatibility with the skin for a perfect safety. Compared to other types of emulsifier systems on the market (sucroesters and ethoxylated systems), they are better tolerated and can be used for all kind of products, particularly for the most delicate applications (sensitive skin products, baby care and cleansers). In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal keratinocytes. Tested dose:.8% Biophilic, Amisol Soft, Heliofeel : the emulsifiers which pamper your skin.
8 Features And Benefits FEATURES Phospholipids: skin-identical molecules The Phospholipid touch : a sensorial signature Various phospholipid-based O/W emulsifiers BENEFITS Strong skin affinity and biocompatibility, high tolerance Cool, slippery, non tacky, non greasy and soft skin feel Formulation of a wide range of textures from spray to butter Summary Biophilic H Biophilic S Amisol Soft Heliofeel Hydration phase Yes Yes Yes No Lamellar network Yes Yes Yes No ph Viscosity Richness on application Cream dose 4-6% Lotion dose Spray dose Main applications 1-2% + co-emulsifier 4-6% 4-6% + thickener 4-6% + thickener 4-6% 3-4% 4-6% 1-2% 1-2% 1-2% + co-emulsifier + co-emulsifier + co-emulsifier 3-4% Face and body care Face and body care Face and body care Face and body care suncare, make-up suncare, make-up suncare, make-up suncare, make-up Ecocert status Registered Registered Registered Registered This brochure is not intended for consumers and neither this brochure nor any extract thereof shall be used in order to commercialize products to consumers. No drawing, photograph or other extract derived from this brochure shall be used by any person without our prior written approval. As well, no claim with respect to the ingredient referred to in this brochure shall be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the claim is set forth in this brochure. The person using the ingredient referred to in this brochure in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of the ingredient, the finished products marketed to consumers, their packaging, labelling and advertising materials and the claims made with respect to the finished products and the ingredient comply with all applicable laws and regulations. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of the ingredient referred to in this brochure for any purpose. Any prospective user of the ingredient shall himself determine the suitability of the ingredient for his intended use and, as the case may be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics March 213 LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS S.A.S. LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS CANADA INC. ZA les Belles Fontaines 99 route de Versailles 9116 Champlan - France T: +33 () F: +33 () Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité 26 boul. Laurier, #9 Québec (Québec) - G1V 4W2 Canada T: F: JOIN THE SPIRIT info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Suncare Formulations. ... and Boya Enterprise Co,Ltd, Pinard Emballage & Parispack for the packaging
We thank the following companies for having provided us the raw material samples which enabled us to carry out our formulas... lban Muller, rnaud, BSF, Baerlocher, Cargill, Cognis, Clariant, Croda, DKSH,
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