Synovea HR Asyntra SL. Safe & Highly Effective in Controlling Skin Pigmentation

Transcription

1 Synovea HR Asyntra SL Safe & Highly Effective in Controlling Skin Pigmentation

2 Synovea HR Asyntra SL Synovea HR Alkylresorcinols are amphiphilic phenolic lipids present in significant amount in the bran fractions of rye and other cereals. 4-Hexylresorcinol (HR) is the most studied and well-known alkylresorcinol, which has an 8-year history of use in food & pharmaceuticals. HR has a GRAS status and is considered to be safe and effective in use as an anti-browning dip for shrimp and fresh cut fruits. Despite its long history of human use, it is only recently that its use and benefits as an active ingredient for skin care applications has been realized. In 27, Sytheon Ltd. introduced HR as a skin lightener/ even-toner under the trade name Synovea HR. Its utility in this application is believed, in part, to arise from the ability to attain highly purified HR (>99%, typically ranging from 99.5 to 99.9%) which is essentially free of resorcinol, a known skin irritant, and hexanoylresorcinol, the intermediate. For a comprehensive overview on HR, please review publication #3. Asyntra SL Utilizing the value of synergism, Sytheon has developed Asyntra SL by blending Synovea HR and Ethyl linoleate in a skin friendly Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride emollient. Ethyl linoleate has been found to be an excellent solubilizer for Synovea HR. Linoleic acid (LA) is an essential fatty acid needed for skin nourishment. It also lightens UV-induced skin pigmentation and works by accelerating proteolytic degradation of tyrosinase. Asyntra SL is a clear liquid, very effective and easy to use. Product Information Trade Name Synovea HR Asyntra SL INCI Name Hexylresorcinol Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides and Hexylresorcinol and Ethyl Linoleate CAS# ; 77-6; ELINCS ; ; Appearance White to pale yellow powder; May become Clear yellow to yellowish brown liquid soft lump Purity Minimum 99% Hexylresorcinol 24-27% (w/w) of Hexylresorcinol Solubility >2% solubility in a wide range of hydrophobic emollients and solubilizers, HydraSynol DOI, low molecular weight glycols; do not use Ethanol Highly miscible with a wide range of hydrophobic emollients and solubilizers Suggested use level.5 to 1% 1.5 to 4% Storage Store in original, sealed container at +1 to +3 C; Store in original, sealed container at +1 to +3 C; avoid light, heat & moisture avoid prolong exposure to light & heat Regulatory Human Skin Tolerances Synovea HR Approved for use all over the world including China and Japan Approved for use all over the world including China and Japan Safety assessment based on MOS value: 1% Synovea HR was found to be safe for topical application (MOS = 548) compared to 1% Kojic Acid (MOS = 88). MOS value 1 and above is considered to be safe. MOS calculated for a face product at 1% use level. Human Repeat Insult Patch Test to assess Allergenicity/Skin irritation/skin sensitization: (1, 2 and 5% in corn oil); Synovea HR is found to be a non-primary irritant and a non-primary sensitizer. Chamber Scarification Test to assess Skin-irritating propensities: (.1% and.5% in petrolatum) on scarified skin: Synovea HR is found to have low irritating potential and compares well with saline control. Asyntra SL Human Repeat Insult Patch Test to assess Allergenicity/Skin irritation/skin sensitization: (1% in corn oil); Asyntra SL is found to be a non-primary irritant and non-primary sensitizer. 2

3 In-vitro Enzyme Inhibitory Activity: Synovea HR vs Other Skin Lighteners Enzymes Mushroom tyrosinase & Horeseradish peroxidase Substrates Tyrosine & L DOPA Test substances Dissolved in Ethanol & further diluted with water Measurements Spectrophotometric; Scan speed - 12 nm/min; Spectral range - 37 to 7 nm Results Concentration needed to reduce the enzyme activity by 5% ( IC ) Tyrosine + Tyrosinase > DOPA DOPA + Tyrosinase > DOPAchrome Synovea HR Licorice Hydroquinone Kojic acid Synovea HR Licorice Hydroquinone Kojic acid DOPA + Peroxidase/H 2 O 2 > DOPAchrome 25 Synovea HR provides the most effective melanin 125 inhibitory (in-vitro) activity vs other commercial skin lighteners. Synovea HR Licorice Hydroquinone Kojic acid In-vitro Melanin Inhibitory Activity of Synovea HR and Asyntra SL Cultured B16 melanocyte cells in DMEM supplemented with 1% calf serum Incubated with Synovea HR & Asyntra SL for 72 hrs Counted cells and quantified melanin level by measuring absorbance at 49 mm Extracellular melanin Intracellular melanin Control Extracel melanin Intracel melanin IC 5 Values % Reduction IC 5 Values IC 5 Values % Reduction Control Asyntra SL Synovea HR Ethyl Linoleate Control Asyntra SL Synovea HR Ethyl Linoleate Synovea HR 1 µg/ml Use level 1 µg/ml Asyntra SL contains 2.5 µg/ml Synovea HR Synovea HR reduces extracellular melanin by 75% and intracellular melanin by 36% Asyntra SL reduces extracellular melanin by 4% and intracellular melanin by 35% 3

4 Skin Lightening Clinical Study: Synovea HR vs. Hydroquinone Human Volunteers Asian, Caucasion, Hispanic and African Higher ITA after 4 and 8 weeks American - 13 subjects (ITA ranging from 7 to 31) treatment indicative of skin lightening 3 Study duration 8 weeks Test sites Left and right arms Test substances.5% Synovea HR in a lotion vs 15 2% Hydroquinone in a lotion Application frequency Twice a day Results Chromometric measurement; E was calculated by subtracting ITA of the treated site from that of the average ITA-Initial ITA-4 weeks ITA-8 weeks baseline (first day of the study) Percentage improvement in skin brightening after 4 and 8 weeks treatment 4 Skin lightening effectiveness of.5% Synovea HR compares well with 2% Hydroquinone. Synovea HR is four-times more effective than Hydroquinone. 2 4 week treatment 8 week treatment Hyperpigmentation Control Clinical Study with Synovea HR Human Volunteers 18; Asian (7), caucasian (1) and Hispanic (1) Percent improvement in ITA degree after treatment 6 Study duration 8 weeks Test sites Hand Test substances 1% Synovea HR lotion Application frequency Twice a day entire hand, 3 (no sunscreen applied) Methods used for performance evaluation: 1. Comparative ITA before and after treatment 2. Expert grading (scale to 4), Skin tone, Pigmented spots Pigmented Spots Surrounding Areas Expert Grading Self Assessment 4 Synovea HR provides significant pigmentation reduction without affecting the surrounding areas 2 Pigmented Skin Pigmented Skin Spots Tone Spots Tone n p = <.5 (4 weeks) n p = <.5 (8 weeks) ITA Degree Percentage ITA Degrees Percentage Improvement Synovea HR.5% Synovea HR.5% 4 Weeks 8 Weeks Synovea HR.5% Synovea HR.5% 4 Weeks 8 Weeks Synovea HR.5% 4

5 Synovea HR Reduces Skin Hyperpigmentation in Chinese Subjects 12-week, double blind, vehicle-controlled, randomized controlled Percentage of women with clinical improvement clinical study conducted between November and January on 16 Chinese women Total of 65 female subjects, aged 3-4, Fitzpatrick type III and IV, and regular users of moisturizing products 6 32 subjects with Synovea HR, 31 subjects without product completed the study Reference: YK Won et al., Clinical Efficacy and Safety of 4-hexyl-1, Overall Skin Appearance of Overall contrast Overall 3-phenylenediol for improving Skin Hyperpigmentation, Arch Dermatol Res, Lightening spots on the between spots & pigmentation size 36(5): , 214 Skin Lightening Clinical Study with Asyntra SL cheeks surrounding skin Higher ITA after treatment indicative of skin lightening Subjects 15 Race Hispanic and African American Test sites Full face Product 2% Asyntra SL lotion (no sunscreen) Application Twice a day Study duration 4 weeks Quantification of Skin Lightening Measurement of ITA before and after treatment Results Statistically significant skin lightening (p value <.5) with Asyntra SL Synovea HR and Asyntra SL Inhibiting Multiple Sites in the Melanogenesis Pathway Asyntra SL provides significant skin lightening within 4 weeks treatment Ethyl Linoleate in Asynta SL is involved in post translational degradation of Tyrosinase. All other sites in the melanogenesis pathway are inhibited by Synovea HR. Synovea HR is modulating at least eight sites in the melanogenesis pathway. Percentage Improvement ITA Degrees 8 weeks 12 weeks Synovea HR ITA-initial 8 weeks 12 weeks Asyntra SL 8 weeks 12 weeks 8 weeks ITA-4 weeks 12 weeks Reduction in DNA damage induced by H 2 O 2 Competitive binding to Tyrosinase active site Glutathione Upregulation Tyrosinase mediated path Post-translational degradation of Tyrosinase Tyrosine > DOPA > DOPAchrome > DHI & DHIC > Eumelanin From Ethyl Linoleate Peroxidase/H 2 O 2 mediated path Peroxidase/H 2 O 2 mediated path 5

6 Skin Protective Properties of Synovea HR Cell Protection Upregulating Glutathione, Glutathione peroxidase, Glutathione reductase DNA Protection Providing long-term protection of DNA; Practically no DNA Degradation even under UV-light DNA Repair Inhibiting DNA damage and improving DNA repair via NF KB pathway Protein Protection Protecting Collagen and other proteins by reducing Glycation Synovea HR Provides Anti-aging Benefits Proven by Clinical Studies Ref: Fantasia et al, J Am Acad Dermatol, 64(2):AB22, S1,211 HR alone at 1% level Stimulates Collagen & Elastin 12-week, double-blind, split-face, randomized clinical study with a HR-containing lotion (41 subjects) using round-robin against the vehicle (4 subjects) on women 35 to 59 years of age Significant improvement in tactile roughness, radiance, mottled pigmentation, crow s feet fine lines, and overall photo-damage Ref: Roure et al, J Am Acad Dermatol, 64(2):AB22, S1,211 HR + Ascorbyl-2-glucoside 42 volunteers applied the product and placebo in a split-face mode, twice a day for 12 weeks After 8 weeks of daily application, a significant improvement of the wrinkles (crow s feet: +17%, under eye: +19%, cheek: +1%), fine lines (crow s feet: +9%, under eye: +13%), brown spots (intensity: +11%, number: 8%), firmness (+26%), and skin texture (complexion: 18%, homogeneity: +26%, softness: 21%, smoothness: 32%) was observed with the product versus baseline as well as placebo. After 12-weeks, further improvement in reducing aging signs Formulation Guidelines Synovea HR should be used at a level of.5 1.% (w/w) of finished formulation. Synovea HR should be pre-solubized in appropriate solvent prior to adding to final formulation. Synovea HR is highly soluble in PEG-8, Butylene Glycol, Glycerine, Ethoxydiglycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Ethyl Linoleate and other high polarity esters. Non-ionic emulsifiers are preferable over anionic types. For preparation of serum or transparent gel, use non-ionic solubilizers having high HLB values like PEG-4 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Laureth 23, Polysorbate 2 and Polysorbate 8. Synovea HR is a phenolic compound. Therefore, presence of Iron or Copper ions must be avoided to reduce coloration due to interaction with these metal ions. Additions of small amounts of a chelating agent (.1%) resolves this problem. If needed, Synovea PGL (propyl gallate, ~.15%) can be used in stabilizing coloration over time. The finished product must be acidic, preferably having ph below 6.. A ph below 5.5 is recommended when potassium sorbate or sodium benzoate are used as preservatives. Formulations containing Synovea HR may cause drop in viscosity. Anionic (such as, Xanthan gum, Carbomers) or neutral thickeners (such as, Cellulosics) are good for maintaining desired viscosity. The finished product should be protected from prolonged exposure to heat and light. Airless/opaque packaging is highly recommended for protecting product integrity and stability over time. 6

7 Suggested Synergists / Additives for Improving Skin Lightening / Even Toning Effects Synergist/ Additive Rationale / Mechanism Use level Niacinamide INCI: Niacinamide N-Acetyl glucosamine INCI: Acetyl glucosamine Synastol TC INCI: Terminalia chebula fruit extract Sytenol A INCI: Bakuchiol Inhibits transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes Inhibits glucosidation step of Tyrosinase (active form) Strong peroxidase inhibitor, Glycation inhibitor & reversal; Broad-spectrum antioxidant & anti-inflammatory; multiple skin benefits Works by modulating α-msh pathway & stimulating E-Cadherin ; A true retinol-like functional compound without having the negatives of retinol; multiple skin benefits 1-2% 1%.5%.5% Synovea HR: A True Multi-functional Skin Lightening/Even Toning Active with Outstanding Safety Record Safe and effective skin lightener/even toner 8+ years history of human use; edible Clinically proven to be four times more effective than hydroquinone Clinically proven to work for normal and hyper-pigmented skin Skin protection provided by Protecting DNA damage & repairing damaged DNA by inhibiting NF-kappaB Stimulating glutathione to protect Cell Reducing glycation to protect protein Reducing inflammation by inhibiting NF-kappaB Anti-aging benefits provided by Stimulating collagen & elastin Clinically proven to reduce multiple signs of aging Can be used alone or in combination with other cosmetic active ingredients utilizing its Skin lightening Skin protection Anti-aging properties Key References 1. RK Chaudhuri, Effective Skin Lightening with Skin Protective Properties, Personal Care, 39-44, YK Won, CJ Loy, M Randhawa, MD Southall, Clinical Efficacy and Safety of 4-hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol for Improving Skin Hyperpigmentation, Arch Dermatol Res, 36(5): , RK Chaudhuri, Hexylresorcinol: Providing Skin Benefits by Modulating Multiple Molecular Targets, In Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics, 3rd Edition, Eds. Raja K Sivamani, Jared Jagdeo, Peter Elsner, Howard I Maibach, Francis & Taylor, Boca Raton, Chapter 7, pp 73-83, S Kaur, T Oddos, S Tucker-Samaras, MD Southall, Regulation of DNA Repair Process by the Pro-inflammatory NF-kB Pathway, Intech, Chapter 8, 7

8 Sytheon Ltd. 315 Wootton Street, Boonton, NJ 75 Tel.: Sytheon SARL 112 rue de Paris, 921 Boulogne Billancourt Tel.: +33 () Disclaimer The information given and the recommendations made herein are based on our research and literature search and are believed to be accurate but no guarantee of their accuracy is made. This information is intended to be helpful, but no warranty is expressed or implied as to the results obtained from use in the formulation, procedure or products suggested herein. Neither is any permission or recommendation to practice any invention covered by patent either expressed or implied.