Anti-aging Restorative

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2 Anti-aging Restorative As we age, skin loses its elasticity and becomes thin, weak and prone to wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. The loss of skin thickness due to the lack of collagen support, the aging skin or aged skin looks pale and lacks elasticity. These two properties are the hallmarks of wrinkles and creases. How can this be reversed? The main goal of anti-aging products is to decrease and eventually eliminate the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and provide even-toning effects. The way to achieve this goal is to prevent skin from further damage, maintaining mainly the integrity of extra cellular matrix (ECM), dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) areas, controlling glycation and preserving skin hydration. Sytenol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) Use level: 0.5 to 1% The first natural alternative to Retinol without having any of the negatives associated with retinol; Photochemically & hydrolytically stable; Can be used during the day; Multiple comparative studies revealed Sytenol A to be a true alternative to retinol. Modulates retinoid-binding & metabolizing genes; Significantly Improves multiple dermal & dermo-epidermal junction genes/proteins; Collagen I, III & IV stimulator; Provides hydration by up-regulating synthesis of hyaluronic acid & aquaporin 3; Clinically proven to reduce multiple signs of aging - Significant reduction in roughness & dryness; fine lines & wrinkles and improvement in skin tone, elasticity & firmness; radiance and brightness. Synastol TC (INCI: Terminalia chebula fruit extract) Use Level: 0.5 to 1% The ultimate glycation breaker & inhibitor; Standardized edible fruit extract; Provides anti-aging benefits by preserving & protecting collagens by six distinct pathways, maintaining hydration by inhibiting degradation of hyaluroinc acid by hyaluronidase; Clinically proven to mitigate multiple signs of aging fine lines, wrinkles, dark circle around the eyes and normalizing yellowish skin caused by high level of glycation; Globally approved. Asyntra C3S (INCI: Water / Lecithin / Dipalmitoyl Hydrxoyproline (DPHP) / Phenoxyethanol / ß-Sitosterol/Linoleic Acid / Sodium Ascorbate / Mannitol) Targeted liposome skin rejuvenator; Wrinkle-correcting agent DPHP moisturizes and smoothens signs of skin aging; Selective Collagen III booster with no effect on matrix metalloprotease activity; Clinically proven to be effective in rebuilding age-associated flattening of dermo-epidermal junction area; Significantly improves skin hydration & elasticity. HydraSynol IDL (INCI: Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate) NEW IDL is a stable & novel form of linoleic acid (LA); Easy to use liquid; More effective than ethyl linoleate based on a comparative DNA microarray study; Unique anti-aging ingredient; Clinically shown to improve multiple signs of aging - skin roughness, dryness, skin tone, elasticity, erythema, radiance & eye area appearance; Works by stimulating SASPase & filaggrin genes/proteins and building skin barrier; improves skin radiance by modulating kalikreins (KLKs). Synoxyl AZ (INCI: Acetyl Zingerone - proposed) NEW Use Level: 1 to 2% A breakthrough multi-targeted anti-aging signaling active; Maintains extracellular matrix integrity by modulating Collagens (extracelluar & dermo-epidermal), integrins (provides bridges for cell-cell & cell-extracellular matrix interactions), laminins (key component of the basement membrane & vital for the maintenance & survival of tissues); Capable of reversing cellular senescence; Maintains collagen homeostasis by up-regulating TIMP (tissue inhibitory metalloprotease). 2

3 Anti-aging Preventive Targeting skin concerns early on can effectively prevent damage to the skin s surface and improve skin quality. Ultraviolet (UV) light enhances synthesis of MMP in human skin in vivo, and MMP-mediated collagen destruction occurs in photo-aging. UV light also induces oxidative stress and pro-inflammatory transcription factors, cytokines, chemokines and enzymes causing inflammationinduced skin damage. How can this be prevented? Slowing down the aging process can be achieved by (1) antioxidant protection to limit direct oxidative damage to the cells, proteins, and DNA, (2) controlling inflammation to minimize inflamma-aging, (3) preventing degradation of extracellular matrix proteins by inhibiting matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) activity and (4) preventing photon- and enzyme-induced skin damage. Sytenol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) Use level: 0.5 to 1% Defending skin by quenching all five major radicals & non-radical and stimulating antioxidant defense system; Strong lipid peroxidation inhibitor - 60-fold more effective than natural tocopherol; Preventing mitochondrial dysfunction by modulating PGC1α, the master regulator of mitochondrial biogenesis; Increasing ATP synthesis, the energy currency of cells; Inhibiting COX, LOX & phospholipase activties; Inhibiting MMP-1 & MMP-12 (Elastase); Clinically shown to prevent UV-induced erythema without using sunscreens. Synastol TC (INCI: Terminalia chebula fruit extract) Use Level: 0.5 to 1% The first natural solution to glycation works by reversing & inhibiting protein glycation; Glycation affects every types of cells & molecule; Quenching all five major radicals & non-radical; Inhibiting xanthine oxidase induced superoxide formation; Preserving matrix integrity by inhibiting MMP-1, MMP-2 & MMP-3 activities; Controlling inflammation by inhibiting COX & LOX enzyme activities; Globally approved. Synovea HR (INCI: Hexylresorcinol) Use Level: 0.5 to 1% Defending skin against oxidative stress via unique pathways: HR is not a quencher of radicals & non-radical, but its trihydroxy metabolites are & by stimulating antioxidant defense system, namely, glutathione, glutathione peroxidase and glutathione reductase; Protecting skin by inhibiting upstream pro-inflammatory transcription factor - NFkB, the key master regulator of inflammation; Prevents UV-induced DNA damage; Globally approved. HydraSynol IDL (INCI: Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate) NEW Rebuilding first-line of skin defense against oxidative stress by stimulating multiple small proline-rich proteins (SPRPs, also responsible for cornification process) & antioxidant defense system glutathione S-transferase & peroxidase; Preventing inflammation-induced skin aging by reducing activities of transcription factor NFkB and other pro-inflammatory mediators CCL, CXL, TNF-a & IL20. Synoxyl AZ (INCI: Acetyl Zingerone - proposed) NEW Use Level: 1 to 2% The first product demonstrated to reduce both UVA-induced formation of immediate (icpds) & delayed cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (dcpds); Protecting mitochondria by reducing UVA-induced cell & mitochondrial membrane disruption & maintaining ATP Synthesis; Broad-spectrum antioxidant; Excellent NADPH oxidase inhibitor The first step that controls the oxidative stress cascade; Selective & effective chelator for iron & copper Reducing iron & copper-induced oxidative stress; Far superior to existing commercial chelants. Clinically shown to prevent UV-induced erythema significantly without using sunscreens. 3

4 Brightening & Even Toning Human skin coloration is both adaptive and labile as evidenced by the multitude of different skin colors of humans around the world. Skin coloration is primarily regulated by the amount and type of melanin synthesized by the melanocytes. However, additional and equally contributing factors include (a) the efficiency of the transfer of the melanosomes, hence the melanin, from the melanocytes to keratinocytes, a process that occurs with the help of E-Cadherin, an adhesion protein, and (b) the subsequent distribution and degradation of the transferred melanosomes by the recipient keratinocytes. Sun exposure as well as other environmental and physiological factors also lead to more localized skin pigmentation, e.g., age spots, melasma, and freckles, owing to an overabundance of local melanin production. Synovea HR (INCI: Hexylresorcinol) Use Level: 0.5 to 1% The New Gold Standard for brightening/even-toning products. Multiple clinical studies demonstrated its strong performance in skin brightening/even toning and hyper-pigmentation control. Clinically proven to be four-times more effective than Hydroquinone; Works by modulating eight sites in the melanogenesis pathway; Boosting E-cadherin; Combining HR with Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) provides very effective skin even toning to all skin colors. Anti-aging benefits is attributed to its collagen and elastin stimulatory activity. Globally approved. Asyntra SL (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides / Hexylresorcinol / Ethyl Linoleate) Synergistic skin lightening blend of hexylresorcinol and ethyl linoleate (EL) in a skin friendly caprylic/capric triglycerides emollient; It is a clear liquid, very effective and easy to use; Works by modulating ten sites in the melanogenesis pathway; Two additional melanin inhibitory property of SL are due to the presence of EL, which is responsible for increased desquamation & post-translational tyrosinase degradtaion; Clinically proven; Globally approved. Synastol TC (INCI: Terminalia chebula fruit extract) Use Level: 0.5 to 1% Providing pigmentation control by strongly inhibiting peroxidase and moderately inhibiting tyrosinase activities two key enzymes involved in melanin formation; TC is a strong broad-spectrum antioxidant thereby reducing oxidation-induced melanin formation; Clinically proven to reduce hyperpigmented spots and dark-circle around the eyes significantly; Globally approved due to its natural status. Synoxyl AZ (INCI: Acetyl Zingerone Proposed) NEW Use level: 1 to 2% Providing pigmentation control by three distinct pathways: (1) The action spectrum that leads to tanning in human skin is identical to the spectrum that induces erythema, which in turn is similar to that for the typical DNA photoproduct CPDs; AZ reduces formation of CPDs significantly; (2) Cu 2+ ions are known to accelerate the conversion of dopachrome to dihydroxyindole carboxylic acid (DHICA) and its subsequent oxidation to eumelanin; AZ is an excellent chelator for Cu 2+ ; & (3) AZ is a strong broad-spectrum antioxidant thereby reducing oxidation-induced melanin formation. Synovea EL (INCI: Ethyl Linoleate) Use Level: 2 to 5% EL is a stable form of linoleic acid (LA); EL gets converted to LA in-vivo & provides all the skin benefits of LA with improved skin permeability & ease of handling; Controlling skin pigmentation by multiple pathways: (1) Reducing the activity of tyrosinase in melanocytes; (2) Stimulating epidermal turnover and increased desquamation of melanin pigment from the epidermis; & (3) Increasing post-translational degradation of tyrosinase; Globally approved. 4

5 Hydrating & Barrier Building Water can be described as the solvent of life without water, there is no life. Human skin contains about 70% water and becomes very dry as we get older or is over exposed to sunlight. Water homeostasis is therefore of key importance for living organisms. In humans, this homeostasis begins at the outer-most layer of the skin - the stratum corneum (SC) where hydration is important for maintaining skin plasticity and barrier integrity. Skin hydration can be achieved by targeting (1) stimulation of aquaporin-3 and/ or filaggrin (2) maintaining hyaluronic acid by stimulating hyaluran synthase activity, (3) decreasing degradation of hyaluronic acid by reducing hyaluronidase activity. Maintenance of barrier homeostasis requires involvement of multiple genes, proteins & lipids. HydraSynol DOI (INCI: Isosorbide Dicaprylate) The smart skin hydrator; Works by stimulating endogenous hydration network based on skin s need for hydration; The beneficial effects on the skin can be explained by the up-regulation of AQP3, CD44 (hyaluronic acid receptor) and tight junction genes, decrease of which is associated with a defective osmotic equilibrium in the epidermis and dryness of chronically aged and photo-aged skin; Excellent solubilizer for hydrohphobic compounds, like avobenzone, benzophenone-3, hexylresorcinol; Helps boost self-tanning effect in glow products; Effectiveness of the product & its synergism with glcerol proven by multiple clinical studies; Ecocert & Cosmos Natural approved. HydraSynol IDL (INCI: Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate) NEW Modulating cellular team work in building, maintaining & defending skin barrier; Works by up-regulating a range of desired barrier building genes/proteins/lipids; Providing skin hydration by stimulating filaggrin & also, the key protein in maintaining skin barrier homeostasis; Defending skin barrier by reducing pro-inflammatory transcription factor NFkB, cytokines & chemokines; Confirmed by ex-vivo studies; Providing natural exfoliation resulting in skin radiance; Clinically shown to improve hydration & skin radiance. Synastol TC (INCI: Terminalia chebula fruit extract) Use Level: 0.5 to 1% Antiaging skin hydrator; Hyaluronic acid (HA) has a dynamic turnover rate & has a half-life of less than a day in skin; HA is degraded into fragments of varying size by hyaluronidases; Works by preserving hyaluronic acid by reducing hyaluronidase activity. Being a broad-spectrum antioxidant, it can also maintain the integrity of dermal HA and its hydration properties; Clinically proven to reduce skin roughness, dryness and improves skin elasticity & firmness; Globally approved. Sytenol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) Use Level: 2 to 5% Antiaging skin hydrator; The key molecule involved in skin hydration is hyaluronic acid (HA) that has unique capacity in retaining water; Works by maintaining hyaluronic acid level by stimulating hyaluran synthase (HAS3); Up-regulation of HAS3 is superior to retinol; Also, stimulates aquaporin 3; HA can also be degraded non-enzymatically by a free-radical mechanism; Clinically proven to reduce skin roughness, dryness, elasticity & firmness. Synovea EL (INCI: Ethyl Linoleate) Use Level: 2 to 5% LA is an essential fatty acids & also a precursor of ceramides, a major component of the extracellular lipid matrix; LA repairs barrier function directly or by increasing endogenous production of arachidonic acid and its metabolites; Both free & esterified LA are capable of improving barrier function; LA maintains stratum corneum acid mantle which is very important for both impermeability and cutaneous microbial defense; Acidic environment is necessary to activate ph-sensitive phospholipids to free fatty acids; Globally approved. 5

6 Stabilizing & SPF Boosting Stability of a product under oxidative and photooxidative environment is imperative, if the product has to achieve maximum efficiency, as it has a significant impact on skin protection, phototoxicity and on the SPF, particularly, ultraviolet A region ( nm) protection. Photostable UV filter combinations are one of the most important properties to consider in developing an effective sunscreen. Instability is also true for many other compounds, more specifically polyunsaturated lipids as they are used as ingredients and also part of endogenous skin lipids. The mechanisms and the sequence of events by which free radicals interfere with cellular functions are not fully understood; but one of the most important oxidative events seems to be lipid peroxidation, which results in cellular membrane damage. Lipid peroxidation refers to the oxidative degradation of lipids. Free fatty acids and squalene are major lipids that make up sebum. Retinol & its analogs are commonly used skin care actives. Both these compounds are highly susceptible to peroxidation and photodegradation. A great diversity of aldehydes are formed when lipid hydroperoxides break down. Some of these aldehydes are highly reactive and may be considered as second toxic messengers which disseminate and augment initial free radical events. Selection of a broad-spectrum antioxidant having potent lipid peroxidation inhibition is the key in developing effective skin care products. Synoxyl HSS (INCI: Trimethoxybenzylidene Pentanedione) Use Level: 1 to 2% A breakthrough first-in-the Industry stabilizer; Excellent photostabiliser for Avobenzone; A triplet state quencher; The photostabilizing effect of Synoxyl HSS arises from triplet-state energy transfer from avobenzone to Synoxyl HSS and through light-induced reactions that preserve the main chromophores; Provides in-vivo SPF boosting by 50% for both organic and inorganic sunscreens when alone it has no contribution to SPF; Protects skin by inhibiting up-stream ROS cascade; Easy to use in sunscreen oil in combination with HydraSynol DOI; Use of Avobenzone, HMS, OS with Synoxyl HSS provides cost-effective, high SPF & broad-spectrum (critical wavelength of well over 370 nm) sunscreens. Synoxyl HCP (INCI: PEG-8 and Trimethoxybenzylidene Pentanedione) Use Level: 0.4 to 1% Being highly hydrophobic, it is difficult to use Synoxyl HSS in water-based system; Synoxyl HCP is solubilized in PEG-8, which is easy to use and a water-soluble version of Synoxyl HSS; Developed specifically for stabilizing water-soluble dyes against UVinduced color fading; Also, very effective in extending color life of formulated products when exposed to incandescent or fluorescent lamps in retail store. Sytenol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) Use level: 1 to 2% Sytenol A is a broad-spectrum radical (hydroxyl, peroxyl, superoxide, & peroxynitrite) & non-radical (singlet oxygen) quencher and has an excellent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity; In fact, Sytenol A is 60-fold more effective than natural tocopherols in reducing lipid peroxidation; Excellent stabilizer for retinol, squalene & other polyunsaturated fatty acid/esters under oxidative & photo-oxidative environments. Synoxyl AZ (INCI: Acetyl Zingerone Proposed) NEW Use level: 1 to 2% Synoxyl AZ quenches three major radicals (hydroxyl, peroxyl & peroxynitrite) & a non-radical (singlet oxygen) and has an excellent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity, which is comparable to Sytenol A; Synoxyl AZ does reduce formation of superoxide by inhibiting NADPH oxidase activity, which is generated under UV exposure. Its superb chelation activity is another way to help stabilize compounds sensitive to iron- & copper-induced oxidative stress. 6

7 Solving Problem Skin No one factor causes acne. Acne is a complex, chronic and common skin disorder of pilosebaceous units. Acne is not life threatening; however, it does have a significant long-lasting psychological impact. Hyperkeratinization of keratinocytes, increased sebum excretion from sebocytes via androgen stimulation, bacterial over population, and inflammatory cytokines are the major factors involved in the pathophysiology of acne. If the inflammation is right near the surface, one gets a pustule; if it s deeper, a papule (pimple); still deeper, then it s a cyst. If the oil breaks through to the surface, the result is a whitehead. If the oil becomes oxidized, especially squalene, the oil changes from white to black, and the result is a blackhead. Squalene is one of the most common lipids produced by skin cells & is highly susceptible to peroxidation & photodegradation which is a major cause of acne. Although P. acnes is a commensal bacterium of normal skin, it (together with the sebaceous gland) is considered to have an important role in acne development. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a significant source of problem in acne patients and can last longer than actual acne lesions. Most of the exfoliating agents have the potential to cause cutaneous irritation and can lead to additional PIH. The recommendation now is that acne treatments be combined to target as many pathogenic factors as possible. Dark skin is more prone to PIH. Sytenol A (INCI: Bakuchiol) Use Level: 0.5 to 1% The first natural alternative to retinol for mitigating acne-affected skin; Works by reducing sebum production & maintaining sebum integrity, reducing bacterial over population, controlling inflammation by reducing multiple pro-inflammatory targets, correcting hyperkeratinization; Sytenol A is an excellent lipid peroxidation inhibitor & a broad-spectrum antioxidant. Sytenol A alone or in combination with salicylic acid help maintain lipid homeostasis and hence relief to acne-affected skin; A six-week clinical study demonstrated reduction in multiple signs of acne inflammatory & non-inflammatory acne lesions, comedones, erythema & puritus. Synactin AC (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides / Ethyl Linoleate / Hexylresorcinol) Product designed based on mechanistic understanding of the acne-affected skin problem; Works by modulating all five key antiacne targets: regulating follicular keratinization, decreasing sebaceous gland activity, decreasing follicular bacterial overpopulation, producing anti-inflammatory effect and reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). A six-week clinical study clearly showed overall positive response, indicating that the subjects felt the test product, reduced appearance in acne lesions (inflammatory and non-inflammatory), PIH and improved the overall texture/appearance of skin. Image analysis revealed a significant improvement in PIH as well as reduction in average diameter (size) of pores and pore count after six weeks of product use; Globally approved. Synovea EL (INCI: Ethyl Linoleate) Use Level: 2 to 5% EL is a stable version of LA; Low levels of linoleic acid (LA) is observed in the skin surface lipids of acne-affected skin; LA is one of the key regulators of sebocytes providing sebum secretion to lubricate the skin; LA provides anti-inflammatory activity; Clinically shown to be very effective in reducing acne when combined with triethyl citrate or Synovea HR; Globally approved. HydraSynol IDL (INCI: Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate) NEW Use Level: 2 to 5% IDL is also a stable form of linoleic acid; It is quite reasonable to assume that IDL can provide similar relief to acne-affected skin as provided by EL or LA; Also, IDL can prevent inflammation-induced acne flare-up by reducing activities of transcription factor NFkB and other pro-inflammatory mediators CCL, CXL, TNF-a & IL20 and oxidative stress relief by stimulating small proline-rich proteins (SPRPs) & glutathione. 7

8 Sytheon Ltd. 315 Wootton Street, Boonton, NJ Tel.: Sytheon SARL 112 rue de Paris, Boulogne Billancourt Tel.: +33 (0) Disclaimer The information given and the recommendations made herein are based on our research and literature search and are believed to be accurate but no guarantee of their accuracy is made. This information is intended to be helpful, but no warranty is expressed or implied as to the results obtained from use in the formulation, procedure or products suggested herein. Neither is any permission or recommendation to practice any invention covered by patent either expressed or implied.

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