Multifunctional Additives
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- Wilfrid Nicholson
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1 Dermosoft 688 ECO ECO Multifunctional Additives Product Information Product features Multifunctional cosmetic additive From % natural resources Skin friendly Anti-inflammatory effect Strong fungicidal activity ECOCERT registered
2 dermosoft products cover many cosmetic functions shows potent fungicidal activity Efficacy and skin compatibility are the cornerstones of The product line dermosoft products are carefully chosen multifunctional cosmetic ingredients. The well balanced product profiles are tailored to the needs of cosmetic formulations. Basic cosmetic functions like hydrating, conditioning, masking and others are combined with an excellent antimicrobial profile. dermosoft products will meet many of your requirements for the improvement of cosmetic formulations and along the way protect the product against microorganisms. With the aid of dermosoft cosmetic products can easily be formulated without traditional preservatives. The product consists of p-anisic acid, a component that can be found in many plants such as anise seed or fennel. P-Anisic acid is listed as an aroma component for food in Europe and the USA. In cosmetic formulations it is added as a masking agent to cover the odour of other cosmetic ingredients. However, due to its low odour level p-anisic acid usually does not interfere with the individual fragrance composition of the cosmetic product. In addition it shows anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties. The fungicidal activity of can be utilized in combination with other dermosoft types to convert most cosmetic formulations in self preserving products with no further need for traditional preservatives. Application can be employed in rinse-off concepts as well as in w/o and o/w products. Like other organic acids it shows best performance as the protonated form at a ph-level below 5,5. is a solid material with limited and ph-depending solubility. For the incorporation of into the formulation it is recommended to add to the aqueous phase at elevated temperature (8 C) and dissolve under vigorous stirring. The neutralization with NaOH improves the solubility. Alternatively a neutralized presolution with glycerine may be helpful. Please ask for more information regarding the handling, if required. In surfactant based products can be dissolved easily in the concentrated surfactant base. Is a naturally occurring organic acid Is skin friendly Has strong fungicidal activity Is % from plant origin Characteristics of Appearance INCI Recommended dosage White powder p-anisic Acid,5,3 % Antimicrobial performance very good fair / moderate not sufficient Gram+ Gram- Yeast Mould ph-optimum of activity 4,5 5,5 Regulatory status Registered in EU, US, Japan
3 Cosmetic functions Different cosmetic functions are obtained with Masking is listed as a masking agent. A masking agent reduces or inhibits the basic odour or taste of the product. The aroma is appreciated by many formulators to mask undesired odours of raw materials. The slight smell will usually not add to or interfere with the perfume in the product. Acidifying P-Anisic Acid is an organic acid that is found in nature in many plants. With a pkavalue of 4,6 it is a weak acid and as such a good candidate for a gentle acidifying effect on human skin. The natural acidic level of the skin can be maintained for a longer time. The correlation between physiological ph and healthy skin has been demonstrated in many studies and there has been evidence that micro organisms like Propionibacterium acne and Staphylococcus aureus and even viruses are significantly reduced, by organic acids and when the normal ph on human skin is maintained stable 2,3. Anti-inflammatory As a compound with known anti-inflammatory effect, can act soothing on irritated skin. The anti-inflammatory effect has been shown to be comparable to other agents like phospholipid analogues, sterols, or vitamin E analogues 4. Antimicrobial efficacy Although may be employed for many of its additional valuable cosmetic functions, the excellent antimicrobial activity will very well improve the microbiological stability. In most cases it will allow to eliminate unnecessary preservatives from the product. As can be seen in the challenge tests shown below in combination with a bactericidal component all relevant germs are destroyed quickly and effectively. For an optimum efficacy the ph of the formulation should not be higher than 5,5. All the microbiological tests are done in an independent external and certified laboratory according to the Pharmacopoeia Europea. The following examples show test results of challenge tests with state of the art products that contain dermosoft Staph. Aur eus Pseud. Aer ugin. 2 7 Pseud. Aerugin St aph. Aureus Figure : Challenge Test with Natural O/W-emulsion stabilized with,7 % dermosoft GMCY alone (left) and with additional,2 % dermosoft 688 eco added (right). Note the strong effect of on A. brasiliensis (red curve).
4 All the microbiological tests are done in an independent external and certified laboratory according to the Pharmacopoeia Europea. The following examples show test results of challenge tests with state of the art products that contain dermosoft. log cfu 7 days 4 2 Pseud. Aerugin. Staph. Aureus 28 Many cosmetic formulations can be stabilised with dermosoft 688 eco Figure 2: Challenge Test with O/W emulsion stabilized with,2 % dermosoft 688 eco and,7 % dermosoft GMCY log cfu 7 days 4 2 Pseud. Aerugin. Staph. Aureus 28 Figure 3: Challenge Test with face cream stabilized with,2 % dermosoft 688 eco and,7 % dermosoft GMCY
5 log cfu 7 days 4 2 Pseud. Aerugin. Staph. Aureus 28 Figure 3: Challenge Test with O/W emulsion stabilized with,2 % dermosoft 688 eco and,5 % dermosoft SLL log cfu 7 days 4 2 Pseud. Aerugin. Staph. Aureus 28 Figure 4: Challenge Test with skin fluid stabilized with,5 % dermosoft 688 eco and,7 % dermosoft GMCY The combination of a mild masking effect and skin friendliness with a potent fungicidal effect form our. This furnishes your formulation with a reliable biological stabilization. Just add a combination of and a bactericidal component (e.g. dermosoft 7, dermosoft GMCY or dermosoft Octiol) to your formulation and adjust the ph to the recommended level.
6 Natural Moisturizing Face Cream D9-9- Claims: Moisturizing & Nutrition Light skin feel Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Dr.Straetmans. Glycerol (85%) Glycerin Merck 3. Ajidew NL 5 Sodium PCA Ajinomoto.5 dermosoft 688 ECO p-anisic Acid Dr. Straetmans.2 A Keltrol CG-RD Xanthan Gum CP Kelco.2 LaraCare A-2 Galactoarabinan Larex.5 B dermofeel GSC Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Dr. Straetmans 3.5 dermosoft GMCY Glyceryl Caprylate Dr. Straetmans.7 Cupuacu Butter refined Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Tocopherol Beraca* 2. Tegosoft DC Decyl Cocoate Evonik 3. dermofeel MCT Tricaprylin Dr. Straetmans 4. Olive Oil Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil Rovi 2. Babassu Oil refined Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Tockpherol Beraca* 6. ARS Body System See TDS Beraca* 2. Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol Cognis 2. dermofeel Toco 7 non-gmo Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Dr. Straetmans.5 C Frag. Highlight Natura Öko Parfum Düllberg.5 Sodium Hydroxide (sol. %) Sodium Hydroxide Merck q. s. Manufacturing Procedure:. Heat phase A up to 78 C under stirring until dermosoft 688 ECO is completely dissolved. Disperse Keltrol and LaraCare. 2. Heat phase B up to 78 C. Emulsify phase B in phase A under stirring. Homogenize for -2 min. using an Ultra Turrax. 4. Start to cool down to 3 C under stirring. Add C below 3 C and adjust ph value to Specification Values: Appearance: soft off-white emulsion. ph: Viscosity (Brookfield: Helipath TF; Speed ): Approx mpas. Centrifugation (5 min., 4. rpm): No separation. Stability: More than 3 months stable at 2 C, 4 C and 4 C. Microbiological Stability: Proven.. * distributed in Germany by Dr. Straetmans GmbH The information contained herein is meant to demonstrate how our products can be used. The given data are suggestions without any guarantee aimed to support customers development. As production conditions at our customers facilities are beyond our control we refuse to accept any liability involved in the use of our products. Please observe possible third party patent rights. Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH, Merkurring 9, D-2243 Hamburg, Germany, T +49 () , F +49 () , info@dr-straetmans.de
7 Natural Body Cream L Claims: Smooth skin feel Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua 69.5 dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Dr. Straetmans.2 Glycerol (85%) Glycerin Merck 7. dermosoft GMCY Glyceryl Caprylate Dr. Straetmans.5 dermosoft 7 B Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Glycerin, Aqua Dr. Straetmans.3 dermosoft 688 ECO p-anisic Acid Dr. Straetmans.2 A Keltrol CG-RD Xanthan Gum CP Kelco.25 B dermofeel SL Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Dr. Straetmans. dermofeel PS Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate Dr. Straetmans 3. Cutina FS 45 Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid Cognis 3. Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol Cognis 2. Sun Flower Seed Oil dermofeel Toco 7 non-gmo Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Gustav Heess 7. Dr. Straetmans dermofeel TC-7 Triheptanoin Dr. Straetmans 6. C Citric Acid (sol 2%) Citric Acid Merck q. s..5. Manufacturing Procedure:. Heat phase A up to 78 C under stirring until dermosoft 688 ECO is completely dissolved. Disperse Keltrol. 2. Heat phase B to 78 C. Emulsify phase B into phase A under stirring. 3. Homogenize for -2 min. using an Ultra Turrax. 4. Start to cool down to 3 C under stirring. Adjust ph value. Specification Values: Appearance: white cream. ph: Viscosity (Brookfield: Helipath TF; Speed ): Approx. 3. mpas. Centrifugation (4. rpm, 5 min): No separation. Stability: More than 3 months stable at 2 C, 4 C and 4 C. Microbiological Stability: Proven. The information contained herein is meant to demonstrate how our products can be used. The given data are suggestions without any guarantee aimed to support customers development. As production conditions at our customers facilities are beyond our control we refuse to accept any liability involved in the use of our products. Please observe possible third party patent rights. Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH, Merkurring 9, D-2243 Hamburg, Germany, T +49 () , F +49 () , info@dr-straetmans.de
8 Claims: Moisturizing Soft skin feel Soft Cleansing Milk ECO L Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua Rose Flower Water Rosa Centifolia Flower Water 5. dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Dr. Straetmans.5 dermosoft GMCY Glyceryl Caprylate Dr. Straetmans.7 dermosoft 688 ECO p-anisic Acid Dr. Straetmans.2 Glycerol Glycerin Merck 2.5 A Keltrol SFT Xanthan Gum CP Kelco.4 B Amisol Soft Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Lecithin, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols Lucas Meyer* 3. C dermofeel TC-7 Triheptanoin Dr. Straetmans 8. D Safflower Oil dermofeel Toco 7 non-gmo Hydraporine Nature Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Betaine, Aqua, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Honey, Pectin Henry Lamotte 8. Dr. Straetmans.3 Lucas Meyer* 4. dermofeel G LW Polyglyceryl- Laurate, Aqua Dr. Straetmans 2.. Manufacturing Procedure:. Heat phase A up to 75 C 8 C under stirring until dermosoft 688 ECO is completely dissolved. Disperse Keltrol 2. Add Amisol Soft, and keep batch under slow stirring during approx. 2 min (hydration step). 3. Heat phase C up to 75 C - 8 C and add to A/B. Mix slowly during 5 min (emulsifcation step). 4. Homogenize for approx. 2 min. using an Ultra Turrax. 5. Cool down under medium stirring. Add phase D below 4 C. Adjust ph if necessary. Specification Values: Appearance: off-white lotion. ph: Viscosity (Brookfield: LV 4; rpm): Approx. 6.. mpa. s. Centrifugation (4. rpm, 2 min.): No separation. * distributed in Germany by Dr. Straetmans GmbH Stability: More than 3 months stable at 4 C, 4 C and 2 C. Mircobiological Stability: Proven. The information contained herein is meant to demonstrate how our products can be used. The given data are suggestions without any guarantee aimed to support customers development. As production conditions at our customers facilities are beyond our control we refuse to accept any liability involved in the use of our products. Please observe possible third party patent rights. Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH, Merkurring 9, D-2243 Hamburg, Germany, T +49 () , F +49 () , info@dr-straetmans.de
9 Natural Clear Shampoo L23-2.A-28 Claims: PEG-free Smooth conditioning and combing efficacy * Phase Ingredient INCI Supplier % A Deionised Water Aqua 58.2 dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua Dr. Straetmans. p-anisic Acid Dr. Straetmans.2 Texapon K2 G Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Cognis 6. Amisoft CS-22 Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Ajinomoto 5. Plantacare 2 UP Lauryl Glucoside Cognis 8.5 Glycerol (85%) Glycerin Merck 5. Lamesoft PO 65 Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate Cognis. Trimethylglycine nat. Betaine Finnfeeds Oy 4. dermofeel P-3 PCA Glyceryl Oleate Dr. Straetmans. B dermosoft 7 B Parfum Dr. Straetmans.5 Perf. Priceless Natura Öko Parfum Düllberg Konzentra C Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride q. s. Citric Acid (sol.2%) Citric Acid Merck q. s..5. Manufacturing Procedure:. Heat water up to 6 C. 2. Add components of phase A one after the other under stirring until all components are completely dissolved. 3. Add components of phase B. 4. Adjust ph value and viscosity if necessary. Specification Values: Appearance: clear viscous gel. ph: Viscosity (Brookfield: LV 3; Speed ): Approx mpa. s. Stability: Stable for more than 3 months at 4 C, 2 C and 4 C. Microbiological Stability: Proven. * Claims supported by combing force measurements The information contained herein is meant to demonstrate how our products can be used. The given data are suggestions without any guarantee aimed to support customers development. As production conditions at our customers facilities are beyond our control we refuse to accept any liability involved in the use of our products. Please observe possible third party patent rights. Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH, Merkurring 9, D-2243 Hamburg, Germany, T +49 () , F +49 () , info@dr-straetmans.de
10 Dozens of formulation examples are compiled in our Formulary More formulations with our products are available for both, traditional and natural cosmetics concepts. Please contact us to receive your copy of our general Formulary and our Formulary NATURE Edition, respectively. Toxicology is not irritating, not sensitizing and does not contain genetically modified material, dioxine, phthalates, BSE-related material or CMRmaterial. Without the 26 sensitizers, in full compliance with the IFRA codes and the 7th amendment. Packing units is available in 5 kg hobbocks. Environmental Information is produced in an environmentally and toxicologically unobjectionable process by oxidation of pure plant derived material with oxygen. is readily biodegradable. has not been tested on animals. Handling and storage In closed original containers can be stored for at least 5 years. does not need to be preserved. Literature Turner RB, et al., Efficacy of Organic Acids in Hand Cleansers for Prevention of Rhinovirus Infections, Antimicrobial Agents And Chemotherapy, 24, p Vol. 48, No. 7 2 Schmidt-Wendtner MH, Korting HC, The ph of the Skin Surface and Its Impact on the Barrier Function, Skin Pharmacol Physiol, 26;9: Singh N, et al., Crystal Structures of the Complexes of a Group IIA Phospholipase A 2 with Two Natural Anti-inflammatory agents, Anisic Acid, and Atropine Reveal a Similar Mode of Binding, Proteins, 26; 64: 89 For further information contact our Dr. Straetmans sales team: sales@dr-straetmans.de or your local representative.
11 Our representatives abroad Europe Benelux Jan van Laarhoven-Waalwijk b.v. Bulgaria Biesterfeld Pro Specialty Chemicals Croatia Biesterfeld Spezialchemie d.o.o. Cyprus Cellco Chemicals Ltd. Czech Republic Biesterfeld Silcom s.r.o. Denmark/Iceland/Norway Bionord A/S Estonia Biesterfeld Chemia Specjalna Sp.z.o.o France Lucas Meyer Cosmetics S.A. Great Britain Rahn UK Multifunctional Additives Russia Chemical Service Ltd. Romania Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Romania S.R.L. Slovenia Biesterfeld Spezialchemie d.o.o. Spain Comercial Quimica Jover, S.L. Sweden/Finland Bionord AB Switzerland Rahn AG Turkey Kale Kimya Group Ukraine Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Asia/Pacific Australia Avenir Ingredients Lebanon Perfomance Ingredients Malaysia Ingredients Plus Sdn Bhd New Zealand Verital Phillippines CTC Far East Phils. Inc. Syria Perfomance Ingredients Thailand Forecus Co. Ltd. Taiwan HonorChem Co. ltd. United Arab Emirates Perfomance Ingredients Vietnam CTC Far East Americas Greece Cellco Chemicals Ltd. China Shanghai Hope Tec Brazil Beraca Sabará Quimicos e Ingredientes S.A. vanessa@beraca.com DF viscolid / 23-6 Hungary Biesterfeld Speciális Kemikáliák Magyarország Kft. l.vereckei@biesterfeld.hu Italy Pharma Cosm Polli srl info@pharmacosm.it Latvia Biesterfeld Chemia Specjalna Sp.z.o.o. k.petersons@biesterfeld.lv Lithuania Biesterfeld Chemia Specjalna Sp.z.o.o. aurelijus@biesterfeld.lt Poland Biesterfeld Chemia Specjalna Sp.z.o.o. r.borzyminska@biesterfeld.com.pl Portugal Comercial Quimica Jover, S.L. comercial@cqjover.com Hong Kong Ingredients Plus (HK) ltd. david@ingredientsplus.com.cn India N.V. Organics PVT. LTD. gautam@nvorganics.com Iran Tooska-E-Khorasan Trading Co. hrt@tooskaco.com Israel Tagra Biotechnologies roni@tagra.com Japan GSI Creos Corporation hi7-gsi@yo.rim.or.jp Jordan Perfomance Ingredients bab@performance-ingredients.com Korea HANA Trading Company Hoffnung@hitel.net Chile Maprin Representaciones Ltda. rcroxatto@maprin.cl Colombia Cromaroma Ltda. angela.munoz@cromaroma.com.co Mexico Noregal S.A. de C.V norma.reyes@noregal.com.mx USA/Canada Kinetik Technologies, Inc. chj@kinetiktech.com Africa Egypt Perfomance Ingredients bab@performance-ingredients.com South Africa Meganede megan.jones@meganede.com
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