Arganyl. by Beauty Creations. Skin matrix protection

Transcription

1 Arganyl by Beauty Creations Skin matrix protection

2 A modern anti-aging active obtained from an ancestral tree The argan tree (Argania spinosa) is an endemic tree from South West Morocco. Until now the leaves of the argan tree were not valorized. After identifying its constitutive flavonoids and demonstrating their considerable interest in the formulation of active ingredients for cosmetic products, Beauty Creations commenced a collaboration study with local competent organizations designed to identify the best conditions for harvesting these leaves. This environmental impact study gave rise to the production of a set of specifications including maintenance procedures for the argan forest which are necessary for a sustainable exploitation of the leaves, respectful regarding the environment. The flavonoids contained in the leaves have been isolated, purified and concentrated to give ARGANYL. Specific in vitro and ex vivo tests have demonstrated them to have excellent inhibitory activity on MMP (Matrix-Metallo-Proteinases) and collagenase resulting in a significant protection of macromolecules of the dermis, particularly collagen. ARGANYL acts at two levels: - by inhibiting free radicals: highly produced during the skin aging phenomenon, they also provoke a stimulation of MMP production by fibroblasts. The anti-free radical activity of ARGANYL limits this process. - by inhibiting MMPs and collagenase A consumer test for 8 weeks has clearly demonstrated the perceivable activity of ARGANYL (face application) and a clinical study has shown its strong anti-oxidative potential. ARGANYL TM is an original natural solution for preserving the skin against premature aging. Focus on the plant The argan tree particularly resistant to the hard climatic conditions of this arid region and can be considered as the last barrier against the desert. The argan forest covers more than 8, ha and contains 2 million trees. It produces small yellow fruits which become brown on ripening. A precious oil extracted from the kernel of the fruit has been used by local populations for centuries for skin and hair care as well as in cooking. BASF BCS Properties Protection of collagen against MMP destruction. Protection against glycation. Reinforcement of cutaneous structure for a firm and smooth skin. Applications Anti-age face care. Firming face and body care. In association with UV filters in anti-age sun products. In association with slimming active ingredients in slimming care products.

3 Inhibition of MMP-9 (gelatinase B) activity Results in % of MMP-9 inhibition Control Ethanol o-phenanthroline at.4% ARGANYL at:.3%.1%.3% 1% Statistics: mean ± SEM on 1 assay in quadruplet Protection against the deleterious effect of photo-aging. In vitro study Measure of MMP-9 activity comparatively with a chemical inhibitor by a quantitative method on agarose-gelatine gel. Anti collagenase activity % occupation of collagen I Control Collagenase at 1 UI () o-phenanthroline at 2.5% + collagenase at 1 UI () ().5% 1% ARGANYL + collagenase at 1 UI Statistics: mean of 6 measurements ± SEM - Anova test a posteriori PLSD of Fisher. Comparison collagenase and collagenase + ARGANYL - () p <.1 Protective effect oncollagen fibers. BASF BCS BASF BCS BASF BCS Control Control + collagenase Control + collagenase + Arganyl (.5%) Ex vivo study Incubation of skin sections with collagenase, with and without ARGANYL TM. Observation of the collagen network destruction by the collagenase, and protective effect of ARGANYL TM.

4 Anti MMP-1 activity Results in % of inhibition / control ARGANYL at:.1%.1% 1% Statistics: mean ± SEM on 1 assay in quintuplet Specific anti collagenase activity. In tubo study Evaluation of the anti-mmp-1 activity of the enzymatic activity vs control (= TIMP-1, tissue Inhibitor of MMP) by interpretation of the fluorescence at 393 nm. Anti-free radical activity Results in % of inhibition / control DPPH HO O2 from xanthine oxydase activity ARGANYL at:.1%.1% 2.3%.3% O2 from lipoxygenase activity Statistics: mean ± SEM on 3 assays Good protection against the major free radicals. In tubo study Evaluation of the anti-free radical capacity of ARGANYL by a battery of chemical and biochemical tests, in tubo. These tests cover primary radical forms as well as secondary reactive forms of oxygen.

5 Anti-glycation activity 1 1 Results in % / control (GLA) 1 5 * * Results in % / control (GLA) 1 5 Fluorescent AGEs Pentosidine UVR-induced ROS Fluorescent AGEs CML Control without GLA Control (GLA) GLA + aminoguanidine at.2% GLA + ARGANYL TM at:.2%.3% Statistics: Mean ± SD n=4-5 - Student s t test - *: p<.5 - : p<.1 ARGANYL decreases the UV-induced free release due to glycation Control without GLA Control (GLA) GLA + aminoguanidine at.4% GLA + ARGANYL TM at:.6%.2% Statistics: Mean ± SD on 1-4 assays (n=3-12) - Student s t test : p<.1 Protection of elastin against glycation Glucose + amino group of proteins Albumin, collagen, elastin Advanced glycation end-products Ingested AGEs Released AGEs, glyoxal UV, O 2, M n+ Free radicals Low grade, long lasting Inflammation (IL-8) 1 NS Results in % / control (glyoxal) 1 5 NS NS Cellular proteins Control without glyoxal Control (glyoxal) Glyoxal + aminoguanidine at.14% Glyoxal + ARGANYL TM at:.5%.1% Released IL8 Statistics: Mean ± SD on 2 or 4 assays in triplicate - Student s t test - NS: not significant - : p<.1 Protection against inflammation. Arganyl provides an overall protection against glycoxydation. In vitro study Evaluation of the anti-glycoxidation capacity of ARGANYL by a battery of tests, in vitro.

6 Clinical study Consumer testing (clinical study) Appraisal by the volunteers on semi-quantitative scale (AU) % p<.5 29% p<.5 24% p<.5 1 The skin is more elastic The skin texture is smoother The skin is softer to the touch Placebo cream Cream with 3% ARGANYL : no effect 1: slight effect 2: moderate effect 3: important effect Statistics: mean on 17 volunteers ± SEM - According to Wilcoxon's T test Skin is more elastic: 88%. Skin texture is smoother: 71%. Skin is softer: 1% In vivo study Panel of 17 females, 45 to 65 years old, having a loss of firmness on the face. Application twice a day for 8 weeks of a cream containing 3% ARGANYL on one half of the face, and of the placebo cream on the other half of the face. Evaluation by the users of the benefits of the treatment according to an arbitrary scale ( to 3). Anti-oxidative potential (clinical study) new UVA induced chemiluminescence of human skin (ICL-S) % of diminution / D (geometric mean) Young panel 21 female, 18 to 43 years old */Co /Co /Pl */Co */Pl NS/Ref % of diminution / D (geometric mean) Old panel 2 female, 58 to 73 years old */Co /Co /Pl */Co /Pl NS/Ref Untreated area (Co) Placebo (Pl) Reference product (Ref) ARGANYL at 3% -1 Statistics: geometric mean ± SEM on 21 volunteers Paired Student's t test on logarithm of data NS: not significant - ( ) p<.1 close to significance - (*) p<.5 - () p<.1 - (*) p<.1 - () p<.1 Diminution of the consequences of oxidative stress on young and old panels. Skin youthfulness is preserved. In vivo study Application once a day for 15 days of a cream containing 3% ARGANYL on the back versus placebo cream and anti-oxidative blend cream. Induced chemiluminescence is measured in order to quantify the anti-oxidative potential of ARGANYL.

7 Summary REFERENCE ARGANYL TM LS 9781 DESCRIPTION Purified extract of Argania Spinosa leaves DOSE OF USE 1-3% REGULATORY DATA INCI (US) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract CAS , , EINECS , , Preservative Phenoxyethanol preliminary specifications Aspect Liquid Color Amber Odeur Weak ph (pure product) Water content (Karl & Fischer) % Total ashes (7-8 C) max. 2. % Infra-red spectrum conform Ultra-violet spectrum conform T.L.C. Flavonoids conform Phenoxyethanol / H.P.L.C % Glycerol / HPLC % Flavonoids % Total germs < 5 CFU/g Pathogens absent Gram negative bacteria absent Formulation Soluble in water and insoluble in oils. Incorporated into the finishing process below 5 C, or at room temperature for cold processing TOXICOLOGy Available data upon request CUSTOMS CODE STORAGE Store properly at room temperature (15 - C) in unopened original container and protected from light SHELF LIFE 24 months MANUFACTURER BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS 3 rue de Seichamps 544 Pulnoy (France) Summary REFERENCE ARGANYL TM LS 983 DESCRIPTION Purified extract of Argania Spinosa leaves DOSE OF USE % REGULATORY DATA INCI (US) Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract (and) Maltodextrin CAS , EINECS , Preservative None preliminary specifications Aspect Powder Color Yellow to ochre Odeur Weak plant odor ph [solution at 1%] Water content (Karl & Fischer) max 6.% Total ashes (7-8 C) max. 2.% T.L.C. Flavonoids Conform Total Nitrogen.7-1.2% Maltodextrin Positive Flavonoids / Colorimetry 3.% Total germs < 5 CFU/g Pathogens Absent Gram negative bacteria Absent Formulation Dissolve ARGANYL TM PW LS 983 at 1% w/w in water at room temperature for its introduction below 5 C, or at room temperature for cold processing TOXICOLOGy Available data upon request CUSTOMS CODE STORAGE Store properly at room temperature (15 - C) in unopened original container and protected from moisture. SHELF LIFE 24 months MANUFACTURER BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS 3 rue de Seichamps 544 Pulnoy (France)

8 EUROPE BASF Beauty Creations 49, avenue Georges Pompidou 993 Levallois-Perret Cedex FRANCE Tel: +33 () Fax: +33 () AMERICAS BASF Corporation 361 Sheep Pasture Road East Setauket, NY USA Tel: +1 (631) JAPAN & ASIA-PACIFIC BASF Japan Ltd. 21F Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo, JAPAN Tel: +81 () Fax: +81 () Edition Oct 212 Although all statements and information in this publication are believed to be accurate and reliable, they are presented gratis and for guidance only, and risks and liability for results obtained by use of the products or application of the suggestions described are assumed by the user. SELLER MAKES NO WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, BY FACT OR LAW, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. Statements or suggestions concerning possible use of the products are made without representation or warranty that any such use is free of patent infringement and are not recommendations to infringe any patent. The user should not assume that toxicity data and safety measures are indicated or that other measures may not be required. The claims and supporting data provided in this publication have not been evaluated for compliance with any jurisdiction s regulatory requirements and the results reported may not be generally true under other conditions or in other matrices. Users must evaluate what claims and information are appropriate and comply with a jurisdiction s regulatory requirements. Recipient of this publication agrees to (i) indemnify and hold harmless each entity of the BASF organization for any and all regulatory action arising from recipient s use of any claims or information in this publication, including, but not limited to, use in advertising and finished product label claims, and (ii) not present this publication as evidence of finished product claim substantiation to any regulatory authority.